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Fix'em all

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Fix'em all last won the day on April 16

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About Fix'em all
 
 
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  1. The vintage chainsaw guys in a US based group I am in always heat these old coils in an oven. 200F (90c) for 2 hours will very often bring the spark back. Take care that the wife does not return home during this period as a back hander with a frying pan is quite memorable 😃
  2. I have one of the later Echo engine versions with a 42" cut. Be interesting to see the O&R powering a blade that long
  3. Mine was definitely a replacement engine. The carb cleaned up ok but the fuel tap took forever to unblock. No manual sorry
  4. I have 2 of these & they are a great little tool in a garden or small allotment so worth saving. I know an old guy at Worksop who can test the coils & the test machine actually got an obsolete chainsaw coil of mine working again.
  5. The cable needs a bit of attention in a couple of places but all works so not a bad buy for £12. The blades on these are second to none
  6. Picked up this 230v Little Wonder Hedge Cutter a few days ago. Makes a nice companion for the massive 42" cut petrol version
  7. Not sure I will be adopting your spark test procedure, but well done sorting this out. I see yellow is quite popular in your household & like the view you have from there
  8. I agree that something doesn't look right, but if this is a Magnetron then where is the other black wire going. Normally you just have one wire going to either throttle or brake so that it earth's & kills the spark when you shut the engine down. Additional wires usually mean you still have points, so does the other wire go under the flywheel. I have a Briggs engine with points & can take a photo of that set up if needed
  9. The lost spark could be your earth wire is touching something metal. I can't see where it is on here but it will be on the throttle linkage. It could also be the points (under the flywheel) need cleaning. Give the carb a good clean & make sure the tank to carb gasket & the carb to intake gasket seal ok. You should also replace the diaphragm on the carb. They are still available, part no is 270026. Don't strip the threads when you fix the carb back onto the engine
  10. Have you confirmed that the spring is broken or just in need of lubrication like mine was. They were fitted with a strong wire pull cord because of the difficulty in getting to the mechanism. I did it by getting a small gap between the casings wide enough to fit 3 nuts in. I then screwed bolts in, rotated it slightly so the bolts push against the other casing & force the points cam assembly off the shaft. You need to mark the position of the points cam assembly first.
  11. That was the MK2. I also had one of those but stupidly sold it
  12. Hi, I thought mine was broken but it was just seized up. Taking it apart is not an easy job but if you do need a spring I doubt you will get one & will have to make something up. You are lucky to find this as they are very rare & I assume you understand the significance of the engine fitted to these.
  13. Selling these as I no longer have my Gemini. NN13 postcode £40
  14. It doesn't need to be big. The bore & length are the important dimensions
  15. Morning, not sure of the dimensions as I don't have mine anymore, but you can make one with a couple of bearings & a couple of large washers. Just measure the diameter of the remaining stub & how much length you have available before the circlip groove. When I did this previously I put a slightly larger diameter washer on each end to act as a lead for the belt. It all depends how much length you have before the circlip.
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