Jump to content

Fix'em all

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Fix'em all last won the day on July 8

Fix'em all had the most liked content!

About Fix'em all
  • Rank
    Advanced Member
Profile Information
  • Location
Recent Profile Visitors
2,857 profile views
  1. Not sure I will be adopting your spark test procedure, but well done sorting this out. I see yellow is quite popular in your household & like the view you have from there
  2. I agree that something doesn't look right, but if this is a Magnetron then where is the other black wire going. Normally you just have one wire going to either throttle or brake so that it earth's & kills the spark when you shut the engine down. Additional wires usually mean you still have points, so does the other wire go under the flywheel. I have a Briggs engine with points & can take a photo of that set up if needed
  3. The lost spark could be your earth wire is touching something metal. I can't see where it is on here but it will be on the throttle linkage. It could also be the points (under the flywheel) need cleaning. Give the carb a good clean & make sure the tank to carb gasket & the carb to intake gasket seal ok. You should also replace the diaphragm on the carb. They are still available, part no is 270026. Don't strip the threads when you fix the carb back onto the engine
  4. Have you confirmed that the spring is broken or just in need of lubrication like mine was. They were fitted with a strong wire pull cord because of the difficulty in getting to the mechanism. I did it by getting a small gap between the casings wide enough to fit 3 nuts in. I then screwed bolts in, rotated it slightly so the bolts push against the other casing & force the points cam assembly off the shaft. You need to mark the position of the points cam assembly first.
  5. That was the MK2. I also had one of those but stupidly sold it
  6. Hi, I thought mine was broken but it was just seized up. Taking it apart is not an easy job but if you do need a spring I doubt you will get one & will have to make something up. You are lucky to find this as they are very rare & I assume you understand the significance of the engine fitted to these.
  7. Selling these as I no longer have my Gemini. NN13 postcode £40
  8. It doesn't need to be big. The bore & length are the important dimensions
  9. Morning, not sure of the dimensions as I don't have mine anymore, but you can make one with a couple of bearings & a couple of large washers. Just measure the diameter of the remaining stub & how much length you have available before the circlip groove. When I did this previously I put a slightly larger diameter washer on each end to act as a lead for the belt. It all depends how much length you have before the circlip.
  10. Cannot see from your photo but is the whole arm missing or just the bearing section that pushes on the belt. If you can find a cheap knackered Flymo DM most parts are interchangeable. The belt on these is A20.5 as it is just a bit longer than the A20 on the DM
  11. Hi Tony, take a few photos of how it all looks now & what your issue is. I am sure someone on here can help. I assume it is the original Suffolk engine
  12. Hi, the engine is an Aspera & some parts are common to Tecumseh. I would start with cleaning the contact points under the flywheel with fine Emery cloth & then wipe them with a clean rag. Nearly always gets the spark back. You may need to give the carb a good clean out too.
  13. Thanks for your advice. Its like you say, the size & HT lead position are critical within the limited space available. I have my fingers crossed at the moment as a guy in Ireland has a good coil & doesn't want the earth for it . Cheers, Ian
  14. Tried the mower centre but no luck. I hate to be beaten & would like to see this saw run again. Has anyone ever cut open a failed coil & successfully rewound it. These coils are like hens teeth.
  15. Go to eBay UK, search Suzuki S200, searching All Items and Best Match. Comes up as first item when I do it
  • Create New...