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Bob V

O&R Tiny Tiger Generator Carburetor

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Not sure which gasket you are calling the flapper gasket?  If you are referring to the one that goes between the bottom base assembly and the top, there are two pieces. One is a thick gasket that goes on the bottom and a check valve (flapper) that goes on top of that. The purpose of that is to keep the crankcase pressure from coming back through the carburetor. If those are missing, I am surprised that it runs at all. Did you meant that the flapper is there, but the thick gasket under it is missing?

Edited by Bob V

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That piece is a check valve to keep the crankcase pressure within the crankcase. It allows the fuel and air to enter the crankcase on the intake stroke and then seals the crankcase for the compression/ignition stroke. I am amazed if your engine is running without it. You must be getting a lot of blow back through the carburetor and into the air filter. Your engine will run much better with that flapper in place. 

Edited by Bob V

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On the carburetor how do you loosen the top inside screw that holds it on to the engine. There is no room to get a screw driver straight on the screw. Thank you.

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Tim - I cannot post pictures on this site, but if you will give me your regular e-mail address I will send you pictures showing how to access that back screw. I have never replaced a rope, so any information you can share would be greatly appreciated.  

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10 hours ago, tvenetis said:

Hi Bob yes can't figure out how to access the screw and also do you need procedure for holding the rope on the recoil spool using wire thanks.

Long skinny flat head screwdriver

 

On 10/9/2022 at 8:57 PM, tvenetis said:

I wonder if I can make the flapper. 

I have some of those check valves

 

10 hours ago, tvenetis said:

procedure for holding the rope on the recoil spool using wire thanks.

There are 2 small holes near the middle of the spool and a soft wire in a U shape is used to pinch the rope to the spool using those holes. The wire is twisted to tighten it then snip off the twist leaving about 1/4 " of it.

You can use a copper wire strand from electrical wire, or multiple strands if all you can find is small wire

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I got my tiny tiger running with the new flapper and diaphragm I installed with help but the bottom of the fuel tank leaks slightly. It is the first time that gas was put in it. I bought it new old stock from a friend. 

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Which one do you have? Is it the 300 that has the gas tank under the motor or the 50001-1 that has the larger gas tank along side of the motor? 

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Hi Tim - I wonder if you bought the same one that I bought one eBay back in May. It was advertised as NOS, but when I got it, it appeared like it may have been run once a long time ago, but not for very long. Because of the age, I put new diaphragms in the carburetor and installed new fuel lines. I put gas in it and it started leaking out of the bottom seam of the gas tank. The seller offered me $100.00 off, but I declined and returned it. Since then, I read an article another person posted about repairing these tanks. Basically you have to remove the tank from the frame. Then wash it out with soapy water to remove any gas fumes. The take a heat gun and heat the outside panel of the tank. The tank is cast aluminum except for the outside panel, which is steel. You heat that panel enough to soften the original sealer and then take a piece of wood or a screwdriver and going in through the gas filler neck, you push the panel out , so it separates from the aluminum tank. Don't try to pry it because it will bend and you will not be able to reseal it. Once you remove that panel, clean all the sealer off the the panel and the area where it mates on the aluminum tank. Then get a gas proof sealer and put a fresh bead on the sealing areas on both the aluminum tank and the steel panel and then press them together. Position the tank so that the steel panel is facing up and put some weight on it - a pound or two to help give it a good seal. Then let it sit for 6 - 8 hours and then you can reassemble it. 

Edited by Bob V

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Bob I bought it from another person who sells things at swap shows. For one thing I could not get 1 screw that had the points plate on so I gbent the cover up to get to the points. I believe the tank is part of the frame just the side plate comes off with a heat gun? Can I use the apoxy that you mix in your hand until it gets warm? thank you.

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Tim - If you have the generator that I think you do, the tank should unbolt from the bottom. The reason I suggest unbolting the tank is so that you can wash it out to get any gas and fumes out of it before applying heat with the heat gun. Another option would be to pour out all the gas out of the tank, if there is still any in there and then leave it outside in the sun with the gas cap off to let any residual gas evaporate and then use the heat gun. You would heat that steel plate up around the outer edges and then push it out from the inside of the tank. You can use epoxy mix to re-seal the tank as long as it is gas resistant. 

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I use a product called Kreem on my chainsaw tanks. It is a gas tank liner, but will also work as a sealer. The problem is that it comes in a 16 oz bottle and you probably only need 1 oz. or less.  The best bet would be to go or have someone go to an auto parts store and ask for a gas tank sealer in a tube. I am sure that they would have something in a small tube that would work.

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I thought it was por 15 but it is called cream like what you used. I put it on the plate and tank and tomorro I will put gas in it. I got another engine for parts and it came with either a air filter or exhaust so are they the same except for the phome in it? There is no phome in this one could have been cleaned out.

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No, the air filter and muffler are different. The muffler has three section. Some of the air filters had two sections and others were one piece. 

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