Hayter 21 Clutch

[DursleyMower 0]

Hi all.

 

I know this has been covered before, but i have a few specific questions which you may be able to help me with please.

 

I have been given another Hayter 21 which was destined for scrap. I hate to see these lovely old machines lost so am trying to work out if its worth saving (economically) . The Deck is all solid, disc/blades all good, engine started briefly so I know I can fix that (I have a spare anyway), tyres are completely shot, clutch lever operates perfectly (locks out) BUT has no effect on the drive. This appears to be an ex council machine unless they were ever produced in yellow ! Serial number on a brass plate 3 3998 so i think its one of the first ?. I have dismantled the drive casing and discovered why it wasn't driving. The inboard clutch disc is completely loose and the outboard clutch disc is firmly glued to the wheel hub !

 

This is the older design with a simple split pin securing the wheel (not threaded). I have downloaded the manual which was kindly added to the site, but the componentry is obviously quite different.

The clutch operates on two springs (one inside the other) not the series of 5 spring discs as per the manual. The shaft passes through a bearing and is located by a circlip (see photo). There is only a tiny bit of end float between the circlip and the bearing, and all the PB bushes appear to be in good nick.

 

My questions are:

 

1) Has anyone purchased new clutch discs for a 21 ? And if so can you give me an approximation of the cost ?

2) Did you send the sprocket away to have them fitted or glue them yourself (JB Weld ?)

3) I presume the originals contain asbestos so should be removed with caution ?

4) As far as adjustment on this older design, presumably its just a case of getting the clutch arm parallel ?

 

Appreciate any advice.

 

Thanks 

 

 

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Hi, Afraid I'm not familiar with the older 21s, only the Osprey version. Others may know more?.

With the friction linings delaminated from the plate(s), it is not easy to assess if they should be the same as the Osprey.

 

On the Osprey, the linings are bonded either side of the Gear Sprocket for the plates to engage either side when drive is required.

Once you have ascertained that, you have the option of obtaining the friction lining and carefully cutting them to shape and bonding with either original Araldite or your JB weld.

Alternatively, you can contact Auto & Industrial  and they will probably produce and bond the linings for you. 

The driver plate (keyed) and the driven plate (wheel side) should be able to be cleaned up ok.

The adjustment of your set up should be as you describe with just a tad of clearance between the plate face and the radial bearing face when the clutch is not engaged.

 

Although it is for the Osprey primarily, there is another well used Topic in the Other Garden Machines section on this Forum with images of the clutch parts to compare.

Let us know how you get on and resolved the issies, as it will help others.

 

Regards

[Rayp 46]

Hi, 

I  purchased new linings for my Hayter 21 some time ago and will endeavour to trace the invoice and let you know the cost. These were bought from a lining supplier suggested by Anglo Traction and were glued in place with Araldite as he also suggested. I suspect the originals did contain asbestos  but I did not have to remove them as they fell off.

 

Regards

[DursleyMower 0]

Thank you both for your comments.

 

RayP if you have chance to find that Invoice i'd be very grateful. Basically i am just trying to estimate the cost (viability) of restoring the Machine back to working condition.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

[Rayp 46]

Hi Paul,

After some research I found the cheque stub and the cost was £28.68 but this was in 2018.  At the time I was asked if I wanted woven or grey moulded friction plates and I opted for woven as it was suggested these would have the better chance of good adhesion.

Regards

 

Ray