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Rayp

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Rayp last won the day on August 11

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About Rayp
 
 
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    Cheltenham
 
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  1. Thanks Nigel - that will be great if you have one. I couldn't believe it when after refuelling I pulled the starting rope and the whole cowling can off. The 3 bolt holes had 'enlargened' so I put some repair washers on, bending the two front ones to fit the curvature of the cowling and managed to almost finish the paddock I was mowing when it came off again. It seems to be a problem with Hayter 21s that even with spring washers bolts need more frequent checking to ensure that the vibration of the engine has not loosed them. Ray
  2. Has anyone got a spare cowling for a 5HP Briggs & Stratton vertical crankshaft engine (like that in the photo). I think the part no. was 392277 and is now 490192?
  3. Can anyone please help in identifying which holes to use for the two 'rods' on the plate shown in the attached photos, where to attach the spring and what attaches to the Governor arm.
  4. I decided to tidy-up my Hayter 21 and am attaching a few photos of the exercise. I decided to use the Handle from an Osprey as I had this to hand and it appears more robust than the 21 handle.
  5. Thank you both. I have now looked again at the Parts Diagrams and can see what I didn't see before, i.e. its part nos. 306 and 307 and yes it's on the 5HP, which is already fitted back on the machine so I am not looking forward to fitting it.
  6. Thanks Nigel, but on which engine and where does it screw to?
  7. I have refurbished two Briggs & Stratton engines, a 5HP one from a Hayter 21, the other 7HP from an Osprey. I am left with this piece (see photos) and am at a loss as to which engine it came from and where on that engine it fits. Can anyone solve the mystery please?
  8. Whilst reassembling my 5HP B & S engine I noticed that the oil splasher was missing a part, namely the sliding 'plunger' in the middle. I thought that I could use the splasher my 7HP engine as a stopgap and replace that later. However, the Splasher from the 7HP is larger and will not fit the 5HP. Does anyone have a scrap engine with a usable oil splasher or a replacement oil Splasher or even the missing part? The 7HP splasher is on the right of the photo and the 5HP (with the missing part) on the left.
  9. Thank you Wristpin for your expert information and Richard for your kind offer of help. I will send photo Tomorrow for you to consider.
  10. Thanks Richard, If I have no luck, I will come back to you to source a replacement. it might be possible to mechanically repair one from my two, but even after rust treatment it would need re-chroming and that might be a good part of the replacement price. The 'cam' which locks the locking lever appears to be made from some soft zinc material and appears flaky so this would also need to be replaced. I have stripped the front wheels, derusted them and repainted them. One cup was missing and all the cage races were shot, but I managed to get hold of some replacements. I had thought of putting new steel wheels on the front, but assumed these would have 'plastic tyres rather than the existing rubber ones which are still good. Regards Ray
  11. Does anyone have a clutch lever in good condition? I have two, one with the locking lever missing and the other with the locking 'insert' degraded and both with little remaining chrome.
  12. Some time ago I purchased a Transdenser from Kirk Engines. This replaces the normal condenser and makes timing a doddle with no need to look through holes at hard to see timing marks. The Transdenser flashes when the engine is running and when my Tractor failed to start recently I noticed that the Transdenser lit but did not flash and I suspected it had malfunctioned. I emailed Kirk Engines with the problem and Dave Kirk responded by return suggesting the points were the problem but offering to test and replace the Transponder without question if it proved to have malfunctioned. Dave proved to be correct. I cleaned and reset the points (which were replaced when the Transdenser was fitted) with WD-40 electrical cleaner, but the problem remained. I, therefore, followed Dav's advice to test the Transdenser which showed that it had not malfunctioned. I returned to the points, rechecked the gap and cleaned them again with brake cleaner on a piece of paper and I'm glad to say the Tractor finally fired into action. I thought I would write this post as it is rare to experience such good service and to recommend Kirk Engines if anyone is seeking the Tractor parts which it supplies and many of which are not readily available elsewhere.
  13. Hi Richard - thank you for your help and advice, once again. I hope you are well. I'm finally getting round to a few things now I'm in 'lockdown'. Regards
  14. I have a Hayter Osprey engine but can find no trace of an engine number and believe the 'engine cowl' may have been replaced at some time. The Briggs Handbook suggests it may be a 170702 engine type 1201-1 and the Briggs Site seems to suggest that the gasket set I need is part number 590777 (794209). Can anyone help in confirming this is the correct set or advise me otherwise.
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