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Ian

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Everything posted by Ian

  1. There was no way the exhaust system I had built would fit back on with a transfer box and a dive shaft in the way, the only part that fits is the big bore pipe that runs down the side of the engine through the frame! So a bit of a re-make is needed, I started at the front after slicing off the bits that fit into the engine.. The only tube I have enoug of is a bit bigger than I had been using, so how to go from something small to the bigger blue bit size! Find a bit of tube that's slightly bigger than the small bit but slightly smaller than the big blue bit and make four long-ish cuts in it. A hose clip squeezes it down to size. Welded on and extra tube trimmed off. Welds cleaned back. A bit of hammer work soon had the other end a bit wider. Welded on to the big bore pipe. Lot's of careful welding later had the gaps filled up. Test fitted to the engine, one side cleaned up. Now I have these made I can work out how the next part of the system.... But that's something for Friday.. Oh... the slight change of plan... With the UJ's etc removed I found there is just enough space to fit this er... final drive? 90'd drive thingy from the very same Honda Silverwing that gave it's engine up for Why Not all those years ago! I will need to fit a chain n sprocket to get the power from the bike gearbox into the 90'd drive thingy which has a 5 to 1 ratio (I can "gear" that ratio out), and yes it will spin the right way And to finish off a couple of photos of the unit I had taken to put it on Fleabay.. Quite glad I didn't get around to listing it
  2. It would seem that somehow today I managed to buy one of these with a shot engine (not this one) late this afternoon... Well, I needed somewhere to put the spare CX500 engine I have
  3. Here's the jig thingy I make to keep the shafts parallel. It doesn't lok that much but both the tubes are a nice snuff fit on the shafts they have to fit on. A lot of time was spent making sure both tubes are parallel to each other.. Trim, measure, trim, measure, trim, measure.. Weld measure, weld a bit more, measure.. You get the picture. Fitted.. The shafts are now parallel to each so I can start working out how to mount the bearing plate. Out of interest I put the foot rest/guard thingy on to check it still fitted... Not bad, I will only have to loose a small amount of foot space to fit a sprocket with guard of course. It was roughly at this point that a couple of comments left on Farcebook had me thinking about how safe the right turn UJ set-up actually would be.. Tight UJ angles and high spinning speeds are not the best mix! Sooooooo..... I started on the exhaust instead
  4. You or MadTrax Norm? And onwards with the story, another slight change of plan coming up shortly.. The outter bearing needs something strong to bolt on to, so I dug out a bit of 8mm plate and set to on the lathe. It will fit somewhere here, to make life more interesting the plate needs to be removable or I won't be able to get the transfer box back out the frame! Before I started on the mountings I thought it would be wise to tidy up this bit of frame first. Mostly chopped out.. That looks better. Plate and bearing set back in the frame a tad, it fit's rather well.. Plenty of UJ clearance by the transfer box. Before I can start mounting the plate I need to make sure both shafts are parallel to each other..
  5. Now the fun part, getting drive from the Honda bike gearbox which points towards the back, out the left side of the frame. A thank you to Nigel at this point for getting a shaft, pulley and UJ off the remains of a Kubota flail mower before it went off for scrap... It really was that rotten! The UJ in question, heavy duty and with no play in the bearings at all One side of the UJ is easy to attach as I have the shaft and roll pin that came out of it.. The other end has or (should I say had) some rather large splines! I'd be lost without a lathe, taking the OD down to size before cutting it off. Boring the ID out, a couple of arty flying cooling fluid shots The finished sleeve, yes it was turned down from a lump of steel the same shape and size it's standing on! UJ, shaft and sleeve.. A nice tight fit.. The sleeve has now been welded into the end of the UJ, yet another roll pin will hold it all together. Starting at the back, or is it the front!... Er.. Back of engine we have a UJ with splines in one end to slide over the output shaft on the bike gearbox. A shaft then goes through another bearing and into the Kubota UJ.. And comes out through the left side of the frame and another bearing. A chain and a couple of sprockets will give me drive into the transfer box As you can see I have some metalwork to do to hold everything in the right place.. Space is tight but shafts and UJ's turn as the should without hitting anything or feeling "notchy" which proves the concept of it will all work
  6. With all the front drive train bolted back on the foot rest thingy needed a little trim to clear a UJ.. I will add a cover over the shafts/UJ's to add some leg protection should something go bang and start flapping about the place. Before I started to cut any more metal out I put some strength back in with a nice bit of curved tube that clears the UJ When the frame is stripped back down I will add some extra metal to tie the tubes together neatly. This join between old and new tubes just had to go! Hhmmm, nice rust inside one of the few remaining bits of the original FourTrax frame... It felt good to remove it There is no neat way of joining big and little tube together, at least the other end is easy For extra strength a length of steel bar has been added inside, you can just about see it where the tubes join.. The steel bar does go all the way up and in the larger tube. I like getting good value for money, think I might of got the maximum use out of this cutting disc Compair it to a new disc!! While on the subject, some cheap cutting discs are better than others, I can't remember the make (Germany is mentioned on the Fleabay ad) but they are by far the fastest wearing most easily broken disc's I have ever bought! That looks better.. Way better than the bit I removed
  7. Well spotted Doug, I had an idea that the yokes both should be in a certain position but wasn't sure which.. Guess I should of googled it first! At least I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right The shaft also had a slight length problem as something had moved during welding, so in the vice the shaft went to have a weld cut down. Welded back up at the right length with the UJ's in phase The shaft out the TB is way too hard to drill, so the UJ is held on with a couple of grub screws.. I will add a couple more for peace of mind.. The UJ's that fit on the shaft with bearings are a very tight fit on the shaft, so I drilled them out to fit some nice tight roll pins.. The bolts are only there at the mo to make it easier to take things apart (many times) during building and will be replaced with roll pins. One of the UJ's being a MAN steering coloum UJ is normally held onto a shaft with a nut and bolt one side.. Fine if it's being used for steering but as it will be turning a lot faster it would of been out of balance! My solution was to cut most of the clamping bit off but leave enough to get a bolt through and clamp it tightly. (The drill bit is only there to line the holes up for putting a roll pin through) Part welded up.. A little at a time as I didn't want to fry the UJ. The bolt head and tread were cut off before more welding, then some shaping.. Still a little more to take off.. Oh, and I found a rather nice if rusty steel bar buried in the workshop, I guess I will be re-making the TB input shaft sleeve, but this time out of one piece.. It's a good job I have just got some more cutting tips and cooling fluid for the lathe
  8. Not much to report, Monday was spent arguing with a car radio, and yesterday my knees were so bad I was only in the workshop for a little while.. But I did manage to get the front driveshaft welded up.. I don't think the welds are going to break Almost forgot, the latest MadTrax video... Enjoy
  9. HI Doug, I've had another thought on the clamp thingys.. Rather than take metal off of one side to balance the UJ's, it would be better and stronger to add metal to one side and build it up with weld (making sure not to let things get too hot) until both sides match.. While waiting for the bearings to turn up, I thought I'd make a start on a sleeve to fit over the input shaft on the TB.. Not the best photo (I will get a better one) but here's the shaft in question. The only bit of steel bar I have which is long enough is made from very hard steel and looks like it has been used to hold a JCB bucket on... That sort of hardness! Anyway, I can make it in two parts and weld them together which would make it easier turning the tapered part half way down the shaft inside.. These two lumps I made years ago as pivot points for a dozer blade that was going to go on the 6x6.. A lot of turning to get them down to size! At least one is mostly done Woo Hoo... The bearings arrived Here's the TB to front end bearing mocked in place.. Best start getting the bearings mounted then.. First up something to bolt them to.. Well, a couple of somethings.. Bolted on. The black bit of steel across the lower bearing bolts is just to keep the bearing square to each other. You can just see where I welded on some tempoary bracing to the drive shaft to stop anything moving about withough the axle stand and other bits that were holding the bearings etc in place. If you flip the bearings over you can see the captive nuts that have been welded on... Don't think they are going anywhere Now the fun bit.. Making four somethings to bridge the gap between the back of the bearings and the chassis/frame.. Starting with a bit of CAD (cardboard aided design) work.. Which goes somewhere here.. Rather hard to hold it in place and take a farto at the same time! Roughly cut out of steel.. That looks better. Four of em made and tacked in place.. Bearings off.. Fully welded up... Almost.. It will be easier to weld the extreme top on bottoms where the brackets fit on the frame without the engine in and sump guard in place, so that can wait until stripdown time. Welds ground down, a nice curve at the back to clear the engine. And most importantly, there is still plenty of UJ clearance here.. And here And to finish off this update, a photo of the bearings etc quickly bolted on for this very photo.. The mounts were still very hot from welding and grinding so I didn't want the bearings sitting getting hot for too long..
  10. To get the drive from the Honda bike gearbox to the TB I had to find a way of turning the drive direction around by 90'd.. One of the steering UJ's fitted with the the splined section from the original CX/trike propshaft.. The shaft will run diagonally between the engine and TB with a nice meaty bearing to hold it in place. And via this double UJ thingy the drive will come out the side of the frame through another meaty bearing and put the drive in the same orientation as the TB input shaft.. Working out space for the TB to front drive shaft. Using a mixture of different shafts and UJ's there is plenty of space to run the front drive up the side of the engine. Hhhmm... Maybe not quite the same size where they need to be joined! A bit of lathe work later.. Ta-Daa Not fully fitted together in this photo as I don't know the exact length yet, but you get the idea Popping back around to the other side of MadTrax for a mo, the pulley (I will be using chain and sprockets) is about the right size to give me an idea how much space I need to create to fit a bearing in. I need to slice some of the frame out here, but I planned to do that anyway to get rid of the un-needed swing arm mount.. It's the only bit left that says "I've welded a few extra tubes to a bike frame" The bearings arrived Wednesday but I've not had a chance to do anything with them.. That's fun for tomorrow
  11. Well spotted The off-set bits of the UJ's will be ground down to make them..er... Not off-set As I will be grinding off the bits where the clamping bolts go I will need another way of making sure the UJ's don't come off the shafts.. On the Quadzilla roll pins were used, so that would be the way to go I think.. The TB didn't officially have a mount around the input shaft I thought it might be wise to make one as a lot of forces will be going into the TB there.. A cardboard template taking shape, pencils being just the right size to screww into an M8 thread As I didn't have a big enough bit of strong plate to make the bracket from I had to make it in two parts. Two of the bolt holes on the TB didn't stick out as much as the other two, so to level things up a couple of spacers were added to the inside of the plate. Welds cleaned up. The chain driller hole is slowly getting filed round. By doing it a bit at a time it breaks the bordom/arm ache up into managable bite sized chunks Bolted back on with a few extras. The top right hand bolt bolts into a threaded tube thats welded to the strut tower. As any "tabs with captive nuts" type things would get in the way of reoving the TB, I had to come up with another mounting spot. Something like this.. It was also a good time to mark out a bolt hole. Off with the bracket them slice the top off the foot rest mount.. Drill it, weld a captive nut inside then weld it all back onto the frame... Top mounting point sorted
  12. A big thank you to Rex at this point for turning up at the workshop one day sporting a couple of massive MAN truck steering columns. Thanks mate I can't use two of the UJ's as they have a plastic center bit. "I have since found out that the plastic bit is only a cover so I can use them" But I can use the shafts and other UJ's (one of which is a double) to get the power from the GB (gearbox) to the TB input shaft... But more on that when I get to sort it. With my Murex TradeMig finally fixed I decided to celebrate and make some mounts for the TB. Two of the mounts were cut off the remains of the Quadzilla frame which gave me a good start. Space is so tight getting the TB in and out of the frame I have to make all the mounts removable from the frame so they don't get in the way! I welded on a couple of captive nut before welding this bit to the frame. Once the TB has been taken out again I can fully weld it up. MMmmm, some nice strong welds This bracket bolts the TB to the frame, but I didn't like the look of it. So the corners were sliced off. And some new metal was added to put the strenth back in the bracket. Will you look at those pretty colours, yep I'd say my Mig is now working better than ever and producing the heat it needs to do a very strong weld That looks better.. The TB mount the other side. Nice and strong (well it will be when I can fully weld it up when the TB comes out), but I'm not sure I like the shape of it so a few mods will need to be done. That will do for now, it's given you all plenty to read More to come later.. The trouble is I can't split the box with it in the frame, and I can't get it out!
  13. Still no luck getting the rear diff out, but I did take the input shaft out to try and see what's going on inside.. No diff inside but both cogs look in great shape. Getting drive from the Honda bike gearbox was always going to be fun as there isn't much space! The only thing I could do was move the transfer box as far back as possible. So out came the Quadzilla battery tray, followed by a slice taken out of a rear strut tower. The transfer box/rear diff coupler limits how far box the TB (transfer box) can be moved back. But notch cut out of the strut tower allowed me to move the TB back a good 1/2 inch.. Not much but it all helps. At this point I still didn't have a working Mig welder and couldn't really do any more on the project, so I tidied the bench and had a think. A change of plan getting the drive to the front er... I keep going to call them "diff's" but they dont have a diff in them! Anyway, you know what I mean. Rather than go the chain and sprockets way I meantioned in my last update, I will be using the Quadzilla drive shafts, all I need is one more UJ tyo get the shafts around the engine. Of course the front part of the exhaust won't fit because of a drive shaft in the way, but hey, it's only metal While on the subject of shafts, this is part of the drive shaft that fit's on the bike gearbox, the problem is the splines inside don't go all the way to the UJ, so I can't just cut it to length! The only way to do it is to slice a bit out the middle and weld the splined section back on much closer to the UJ. I need to shorten this so it will fit onto the gearbox splines and leave enough room for the UJ on the shaft that runs from the TB to the front axle. To make it easier to line the two bits back up for welding I needed to machine the slined end to an even size outside. As the UJ isn't designed to be taken apart (thanks for that Honda!) I had to be inventive and find a way to hold it all steady in the lathe. It's been a long time since I've used a steady rest, but it did the job well and the machining went smoothly.
  14. I see what you mean Norm, I'm sure something "in keeping" can be made Quite a bit of updateing to do, not sure I will make it all in one sitting as I've a lot to get done today! Before I started to slice MadTrax open for a transfer box implant, he was taken off the bench and wheeled outside so we could have a good look. Back on the bench the rear end was stripped off, a bit of grinder work later and the transfer box was almost in. By almost, I mean the box fitted in but splines wouldn't quite line up.. By connecting the diff and tranfer box shafts I get drive to the rear diff but it also dictates exactly where the TF box has to go. And this is the point where I need some help guys.. The front and rear came from a 2012 Quadzilla 325E 4x4. The problem is I can't get the rear half shafts out of the diff! All the research I've done says inside the rear end is a crown wheel that has a shaft with splines on each end running through it. The end of the half shaft should have internal splines that push over the "crown wheel shaft" and is held in place by and expanding spring/washer thingy. I can pull the end of the half shaft out of the er.. diff/and or crown wheel case only a certain amount and then it feels like there is an internal "cir clip" holding the shaft in.. Also as you will see from the photo the end of the half shaft has external splines not internal ones like the internet whould have me believe! My thoughts are it does have a diff in the back, but someone has cracked the case open and welded it up to make a "locked" rear end.. There is plenty of signs that someone has been in the rear end before, lot's of mastic type sealer on the case joins! Oh, the diff won't come out of the frame without taking the end of the half shafts out first! To join the transfer box to the rear diff I needed the longest length of slined section from one of the Quadzilla prop shafts.. You might say the UJ was a bit worn! The "coupler" needs a bit of work but transfer box and rear diff joined A shaft with 2 UJ's comes out of the front of the transfer box. Which will fit onto a nice sturdy shaft running forward with bearings to hold it in place. The thin walled white tube is for illustration purposes only The front of the shaft will connect to the front diff via some very strong chain and sprockets. Disclaimer... " The above chain idea has now been changed but I've put it in as it's part of the MadTrax story" Nows a good point to drop in a video..
  15. Owdo all, MadTrax is coming along nicely, along with a lot of new tube the looks have changed as well By only doing one corner at a time the Quadzilla strut towers have gone, I think the tube looks much better. A new nose taking shape. You can also see some new tube connecting the top of the struts to MadTrax's frame just in front of the gas tank.. The photo's don't show it too well but the curves match and line up with other tube.. Nose job finished, not as pointy as the first one and it looks all the better for it... No chance of it digging in and throwing me over the bars now A single tube connects the nose to the frame, hopefully there is still enough space left to get the diff out when I need to When I cut the front off it left four open tubes on the frame, so they needed to be tied into the new front end... The two tower tubes will be joined together, something like this only cut to fit and without the hand to hold it up And that's this thread upto date again...
  16. Time to get serious with the front end.. Not the best of photo's as someone had put an exhaust in the way, but the front is now welded to the rest of it.. I will put a load more strength in this area but it's one of those jobs best done later when the frame is stipped down (again) and I can turn it upside down. So I could do some structural slicing the front diff needed to be moved forward and out the way a bit.. Of course two of the Allen Key bolts came undone with only a small fight, the front two refused to budge and eventually got chewed up.. The only way to undo them without grinding the heads off was to weld a bit of bar to the bolt head and hope the heat would free the thread up.... Which it did. There's no two ways about it, the Quadzilla front strut towers looked ugly, really ugly.. So why not turn it around and make them a feature With yet more tempoary bracing in place and the top of the towers already mostly wrapped in tube, half the O/S strut tower was cut out! Cleaning up the welds was not fun as they were very hard! Fresh tube welded back in to replace the metal I had cut out, and a Nigel holding the rear tube in place.. A close up for you. And a view from the front and top.... By the time we are finished it will look way better and be much stronger than the original Quadzilla strut towers Oh..... Much to my and Nigel's suprise I found the Quadzilla gear/transfer box the other day.. Both Nigel and I thought it had long gone! If I can make it fit in this space, MadTrax will have HI/Low ratios and a reverse.. Well 5 of em
  17. Morning all, bit more of a MadTrax update for you.. Yep, yet more slicing and welding, even more of the same to come The box section under/around the rear diff needed to come out as it just looked rubbish!! Slicing it off in one bit was interesting ! In went some new tube.. A lot of extra tempoary bracing went in to stop things moving.. The big blue tubes hold the rear end off the bench as I had to remove both rear wheels and move the shocks so I could get a cutting disc in.. Not fully welding in yet, but I have added a cross tube between the end of the new rails since this pic was taken.. It was at this point my Murex 165 TradeMig shat it's self and decided it didn't want to produce good welds any more! When using it you can feel it's "pulcing" and just has lost it's amps and doesn't want to penetrate!! So a BIG THANK YOU to Nigel for offing me the use of his welder until I can get mine fixed which will hopefully be some time next week.. Nigel's Mig on the right, naughty Mig on the left! Much welding and the wheels put back on later the rear end looks like this.. Some extra strengthening and tidying up needed but it's looking good. Another big to Nigel for helping me get the new front end lined up and squared up with the rest of the frame.. This took a suprisingly long amount of time... Bracing was added after this photo was taken to keep it in the right place.
  18. Daihats-Ute

    Thanks for noticing mate True, but you would have trouble finding the right shape mattress to fit in the back
  19. But of course old bean, of course Sorry for the slight delay in finishing this post, spare time is hard to find! Anyway... Quite a few months ago when MadTrax was being stripped down for paint I found that I couldn't get the exhaust off the engine! Something had closed up during welding and made the very small clearance there was too small to clear anything.. So, the only option was to put an extra flange in the system.. Almost finished here, just need the welding finished when it's unbolted. And on to todays main attraction Never being one to take the easy option and also having a history of making drastic changes when I'm most of the way through a build, I thought the best way to bolt the new wheels on is if I use the matching hubs..... And suspension.... And brakes....... And steering With a couple of bars cut out under the seat the Quadziller rear end could be rolled in place. The heavy duty sump guard came in handy, nice and flat for balancing on a widened wheel rim that was just the right height. With the front end stripped off, there was only one thing to do.. Slice off her nose To fit this, Quadzillers front end A little trimming later and both ends are near enough in the right places. Lot's of measuring later the front and middle sections lined up and were held together with some tempoary bracing. The first two new tube to on were the rear end, I just had to give her a slightly cheeky curvy rear No problems getting the exhaust back on, the battery box will be cut out as MadTrax has one already. Working out how to make the top shock mounts was interesting, but worth it as they look good. It's a shame that I ran out of welding gas as I was tack welding them on! I will put a bracing tube between the shock mounts. And that's where the build is up to for now... More to happen when I get more gas..... (No fart jokes please)
  20. Thanks mate, it's about to get beastier Wow was it really January I last worked on MadTrax!! I have been a bit distracted by an RJ, a Burban, a lathe bench etc but I am back on MadTrax's case now In order to keep this in some kind of order, we had best start with a video with a rather silly start As hinted at the end of the video some "slight" changes were about to happen.. It was this photo that started the ball (or should it be quad) rolling The wheels came from the remain of a Quadziller quad that Nigel had stored away in a vast amount of brambles There was no way the bigger wheels would bolt onto the original front hubs and rear axle as the PCD's are nowhere near the same.. Making adaptors for the front wheels wouldn't be too bad of a job, but the rears would need at least an 8 inch wide adaptor plate each side which would do the axles bearings any good! Also the original rear axles internal brake wasn't working at all!! Sooooooooo... My brain started chewing an idea over.... Then out came the tape measure to check on the idea... But your going to have to wait a little while to see the idea though I bet a few of you know already
  21. New arrival.. Wheel Horse D-200

    Thanks Norm, yep road registered and still on the DVLA computer.. Thanks Harry.. Plans are not much.. Fit a 3 point on the back, maybe make pallet fork, then just a wipe over with an oily rag once in a while.. I like how she looks Thanks Chris, a new seat would be good, one that will now backwards by a few inches would be better I have plenty of new lights for the back, not sure if I want to fit them though.. Hi Richard, yes the ol D is in quite good health, the trans whines a bit but so do I I remember the tiny WH sticker thing on Andy's D, plenty of them on my D! Thanks Paul, good to catch up with you Friday, I seem to remember you having a big grin as you drove the D around the carpark Not much to report, the D gets better each time she is driven. The engine always starts first time every time Speaking of the engine, a new vacum fuel pump was fitted so I could get rid of the "tank on a plank" that was clamped on the front and use the D's original tank.. The engine was also missing a cover, so I quickly folded one up from a bit of sheet steel.. Not pretty but does the job. The D's first official duty, carting some steel panels up from the scrap pile
  22. Morning all, sorry I've not posted or even been on MOM of late, life has been stupidly busy to say the least!! Anyway, a long long time ago there was a thread on good old RedSquare about which wheel horse would be on your "wanted hit list". One of them was a GT-14 which thanks to Neil, one came my way.. A great machine which has now moved to pastures new.. The other I'm sure you can guess from the title was a D-200 Nigel bought this machine from Harry with the thought of changing the engine (which had a knock according to the bloke Harry bought it from), to something a bit different.. Then Nigel made the mistake of saying something along the lines of "I expect you will end up owning the D eventually". Which got me thinking A bit of a play with the wiring (The PTO switch had been badly by-passed) and the engine had a spark, and a temporary gravity fed fuel tank sorted out the fuel side of things.. Much to Nigel and my surprise the engine fired right up and sounded good with sign of any knocking sounds! The trans is a bit noisy but that may sort it's self out with a bit of use as the Big D hadn't been used in a very long time.. A few photo's for you.. And of course a video.... I hope to get an engine running and driving vid edited today, but for now here's an intro vid..
  23. To old to shuffle

    I've never seen so much space in your workshop Chris
  24. A nice demolition job Chris, it looks like the cooker top can be saved though
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