Jump to content

Ian

Moderators
  • Content count

    2,891
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    169

Everything posted by Ian

  1. A bit more work on the fuel tank was done, mostly welding up the odd hole I had missed. There's one! One or two on the underside as well. Not all the holes were that obvious, but putting a little compressed air into the tank made them easier to find.. Some bit's were just welded up to tidy them up. The exhaust system got the same treatment.. Find the holes and weld them up.. Finally the build had got to the "see if the drive system worked" point of things... Sooooo...... Which left only two things to do.. No 1.. Quickly give Madtrax some brakes.. Quickly as in back brakes only.. No 2... Get MadTrax off the bench and go for a test drive..
  2. It would seem that somehow today I managed to buy one of these with a shot engine (not this one) late this afternoon... Well, I needed somewhere to put the spare CX500 engine I have
  3. Morning all, not sure if anyone is still reading this, but if you are thanks and here's a rather large update for you. Starting with a video in order to try and keep things in order.. I hope you all enjoyed that.. So where were we?? Oh yes, mounting the bearings that make up part of the drive system to the front. The original mounts were trimmed back until only the plates with captive nuts were left. Here they are bolted to the back of the bearings, ready to be tacked onto the frame. The random bit of angle is there to keep the tops in line. And without the bearings, just tacked on. A bit hard to see in the next two photo's, the bearing mounts now have extra strength with gussets added.. As ever not fully welded in these pic's. The front er... prop/drive/transfer shaft thingy has been welded up, I will be adding some extra rows of weld "just in case" and to tidy the shaft up a bit. The other end is fitted in place with a tight fitting roll pin. Oh, if your wondering the shaft does look like it's running true One last thing to do before the drive system is finished... Attach all the sprockets to the shafts.. Starting with the first and second in line there was a bit of lining up work to do.. Here's No 1. A close up and you can see the chain wants to bend to the right or forwards if you will. A bit of extra space between the chain and bearing holder would also be nice.. At the other end of that chain things were also a bit tight between the chain and bearing.. To solve the problem this part came back out for a bit of turning so the sprocket could be moved away from the bearing. Before welding the sprocket onto the shaft (no space for a roll pin) Rob started toasting all of it.. As both the sprocket and shaft thingy were very cold, both were heated up so the cold metal wouldn't just suck the heat out of the weld. The 90 degree drive thingy out.. A big moment as it means everything will come out of the frame.. Phew lol While the drive system was out I was able to do a bit of extra welding inside the frame, as some bit's were only tacked together at this point.. For some reason I forgot to take load of pic's of the next stages, so the photo's might seem a bit random.. This bearing holder needed a few mounts.. Two mounts this side.. Making the mounts for this inside was more interesting, I also had to make lower mounts for the big blue bearing.. No photo's of this done but you will see it in the next video. Chain half links and a sprocket turned up, this is part of the chain tensioner, so the sprocket was bored out to take a bearing each side. The transfer box idiot light switches were removed as the exhaust would melt them also they are not really needed. A couple of ally blanking plates blocked the holes back up. The finished chain tensioner thingy.. I think a 30mm bolt head is about the right size and in no way oversized I think now's the time to drop in Part 24 of the build videos..
  4. Morning all, well the point of starting MadTrax up and testing the runnning gear on the bench isn't far off.. Time is still lacking but I have made a good start on the transfer box to from diff drive/prop shafts. I've not taken many photo's and even less video footage as I just wanted to get bit's done while I had the time. Holding a small shaft in place to measure up and work things out was a right pain until I quickly made this "bit of tube welded to box" which holds the shaft in the right place. The shaft to the front has been extended and made a slightly bigger diameter to fit the new UJ.. I've not welded the shaft up yet just in case any adjustment is needed. Here's one of the bearing brackets I made up.. Think it's going to need a lot of trimming now everything is a lot closer to the engine..
  5. Ian

    Rural past times

    Great photo's guys, looks like you had a good show.. Sorry I couldn't make it, the pain verses pleasure equation is now unfortunatly stacked the wrong way now...
  6. Morning all, only a small update I'm afraid, life is still keeping me very busy and I don't see it getting quieter anytime soon! Not much to show really, but I have been working on mounting the rear brake pedal and cylinder. Quite a hard thing to photo if you don't have a clear different colour background! I have fitted the Quadzilla brake pedal, it was originally a flat plate that was bolted to all sorts of places to give it strength. As I couldn't do that I had to box it in. Here's the other side. Brake cylinder bolted on. The whole footrest/brake pedal mount thingy bolted back on. The rubber hose to the reservoir will sit just under the steel mesh when it's put back on. The pedal looks like it's lying almost flat, but it's in the right place if you pivot your foot on the end of the footrest which is where your feet naturally fall I will make a shield that uses the cylinder bolts to add so side protection to the cylinder.. Starting to look a bit busy with the exhaust and driveshaft plonked in place, the propshaft guard will take up a bit more space as well. And that's as far as I have got photo wise.. I have been making a bearing mount removable and made two of the four mounts needed to go on the bearing that holds the shaft that comes out the bike gearbox.. I will get some photo's tomorrow that might explain it a bit better than I did above
  7. With the above done the time had come to mount the bearing that holds the shaft out of the transfer box up. Here it is roughly in place, the foot rest thingy still needs a little trimming at this point. The next four photo's were taken from video footage I took quite a while back, but they are handy for showing a part I had to make. The end of the shaft in the TB has splines which as we all know have a little play in them. To hold the shaft in exactly the righ place I make up this collar/sleave/thingy.. Which slides over the shaft and when flat against the plate hold the shaft in the right place. Skipping forward in time again the collar/sleave/thingy has been tacked in place. Once the bearing is mounted it will be removed. The old steel mesh was removed from the foot rest (I have some new mesh which matches the exhaust guard) and a nice strong bearing mounting plate welded on. Oh, the top tube has also been sliced off and welded back on with a nice strong steel bar inside for extra strength. A view from the back, I need to get a half link to shorten the chain and make a tensioner thingy. One thing I was worried about was how much the chain would stick through the footrest... As you can see it doesn't stick though at all.. Me happy with that And that is where I have got too, with a bit of luck I will have more time next week to spend at the workshop..
  8. Morning all, sorry it's been so long between updates.. Life has kept me so busy of late that I've not really been at the workshop that much! Having got the 90 degree drive thing in the right place, it needed to be mounted strongly. The curved brackets were made by welding on end to the large bit of thick wall pipe and beating it around with a large hammer while it was still hot from welding.. I thought I had some photo's of that stage but I can't find them! As you can see it's all only tacked in place at the mo, it will only get fully welded once I know the transfer box etc can actually be removed from the frame! In theory they should, but you never 100% know for sure until you try.. A thrid mount will be going down to the frame but I couldn't work out exactlly where until I had made and mounted a strengthening plate that runs between the frame rails.. Of course I did not have a large enough thick enough bit of steel plate, so I had to make one.. Missing a few photo's here but I had to slice up a Wh 312-8 fuel tank/fender pan mount for the steel.. Clamped down ready for welding. Leaving a big enough gap to fill with weld. Weld won't stick to brass so a brass plate was clamped to the underside.. The black bit is ally which works as well, it just burns away a lot faster.. Welded, shaped and roughly put in place. To mount the plate I knocked up four of these captive nut brackets. In order to center punch the flat plate in the right place for dilling I drilled a hole though a spare bolt that was only just big enough to get my punch in.. It makes sure the punch mark is in the center of the capive nuts. Brackets tacked on. Lot's of chopping and welding later the plate now has some strengthening holes including one just below the odd shaped tube and bit of box 90 degree drive mount so a ratchet can be used to bolt it on.. A pic from the other side with the third tube mount tacked in place.
  9. As much as I would of liked to weld the big pipe into the frame to make it all very strong, I wouldn't be able to get the transfer box out if I did! So I have made up some curved mounts which you will see in the next update.. But while I was at it I thought it maight be an idea to bolt a few bits in place to check everything still fitted.. With a bit of trimming and a lot of strengthening the bearing block can be made to fit flush on to the n/s foot rest which keeps things neat and tidy, but the footrest will need a lot of extra strength added. I did at one point think I would have to widen the foot rests as the chain, sprocket and bearing would take up so much space.. But with the bearing mounted flush the chain and sprocket hardly poke through at all, also the 90 degree mount only takes an inch or so foot space away from a bit of the footrest that doen't feel a natural place to put your foot anyway.. So no widening needed, just a bit of extra mesh to go over the chain.. Oh, I do have some much better looking mesh to replace the rather tatty looking mesh thats fitted already, A view of the back.. The chain needs to lose a link and a half and there is plenty of space to put a chain tensioner. Good news with the o/s footrest as well.. The drive shaft that goes to the front now takes up so little space (much closer to the engine etc) that all I need to do is put a cover over it so it doesn't try and grab my boot laces as it spins.. Plenty of space to mount the barke pedal as well And that is where I have got to on this build as of yesterday.... We shall see what progress Thurs/Friday brings as I want to spend next Mon/Tuesday having a play with Project Wheel-Vo
  10. In the last above photo you can see the square bit of plate bolted to the end of the 90 degree drive thingy... Well, it didn't stay square for long.. Ok, it's not perfectly round, but that's not a problem as you will see. But what to fit it in?? A bit of this 5 1/2 diameter pipe will do Yes I know it doesn't look that safe, but due to the weight of it, it wasn't going anywhere.. A 2 inch bit of pipe with both sides faced off on the lathe. The lip I cut on the round plate makes it a perfect fit in the bit of pipe. Plonked on to have a look.. A lot of welding later including 3 long runs inside and I don't think the plate and pipe will be parting company anytime soon
  11. Well, morning all. It's been a while since I updated this as pulling apart a Volvo had been taking up most of my time.. Making bits on the lathe for MadTrax has taken a while as well.. Anyway.. A shaft was needed to slide over the splines on the 90 degree drive thingy to get the power out the same side as it need to go in the transfer box.. Here it is on the lathe. The shaft with the splined bit pushed tightly on the end.. Just needs welding up then back on the lathe for the final machining. That looks better, turned down to size ready for a bearing on the end.. But how to hold it in the right place for making bearing mountings as we all know splines always have a bit of play in them? This will do the job Slid over the shaft.. Once it is tack welded to the flat plate behind it will hold the shaft steady... I hope that makes sense? Now another fun bit.. A long long time was spent getting the 90 degree drive in exactly the right place.. No mean feat considering it had to be right in so many planes! To make sure it stayed put, the tempoary mountings (bit of angle) were temporarily tacked in place..
  12. We all have a "must build" project in mind, and this is mine.. Over the years I have restored WH's Built things that go on them such as a snowplow and harrow... Added a couple of extra wheels - The 6x6.. And even made a fast fun machine - Project Why Not.. Wheel-Vo is the silly/stupid one As you all know I paid The Showman a visit the other day and came back with a car load of WH.. A 312-8 although with no engine and trans it's more like a 300-0 Here it is back in the workshop thrown in a rather neat pile The plan? The title should of given you a clue, I'm on the look-out for a cheap Volvo that will give up a 2.3 turbo engine, gearbox, rear axle and maybe a few other parts, then sell on the rest to get a few £££'s back.. Of course a standard WH chassis won't be suitable so I'm going to have to build one.. A lot of work ahead but I can/am collect parts while I'm finishing Project MadTrax.. There won't be any real updates for a while but I can keep you updated as to how the parts collecting is going.. And of course... Video's
  13. Mad scientist eh?? Not the first time I've been called that No more progress yet, but I do plan to get a bit more into it next week..
  14. Ian

    Wheel Horse C-101

    Even though I bought a C-312-8 from Chris in the not too distant past, It's missing a couple of vital parts like the engine and trans, so I needed to get something I could use.. This C-101 popped up very local at quite a good price Unfortunatly the boonet/hood isn't part of the deal so anyone have a spare C/Raider bonnet going spare? The fender pan is in good condition, but once again it's not part of the deal... Another fender pan has been thrown in (no pic's of it yet) but it is missing a bit of metal from the middle and needs a bit of work.. Engine.... It has one and it is part of the deal 10hp Kohler that spins freely but had no compression! Those with sharp eye's will of noticed a couple of bit's missing from the engine... Yep no carb or... Starter motor! I might have enough incomplete carbs on the shelf to make a good one, and I'm sure I have a starter for it somewhere but so far all I've found is a starter for a Kohler twin.. Think it might of come from a KT The trans is an 8 speed which is nice.. Last Friday Rex popped in for a coffee and the engines lack of compression got the better of him and he just had to have a look.. Problem found... The exhaust valve was stuck open, that large gap shouldn't be there! Head off to have a look... Followed by lot's of penertrating oil and some gentle taps with a rubber mallet saw the valve close again.. (not quite closed in this pic) Spinning the engine with a bit of pressure on the valve soon had it moving freely up and down again.. The cylinder wall has a bit of scoring, but not too bad though the engine may be a "smoker" when it's running.. Someone has been in this engine in the not too distant past, the head has been cleaned at some point as all the crud/carbon is only a thin layer.. Other than a wipe with a cloth the piston is as found... Someone has cleaned most of it! The plan for this machine??? Find the missing parts, get the engine running and just use it
  15. Ian

    Bit Crowded.

    Compact and bijou mostyn, compact and bijou.
  16. Ian

    Wheel Horse C-101

    Not this time mate... Well, the C-101 is no more.. As well as needing a bonnet, fender pan, carb, seat, starter motor, I found out that the main body tub was so rotten (most of it just pulled apart sort of rotten) that the poor C went from project to breaker for parts with the funds going towards the latest project.. Sorry guy's, sometime you can't keep em all.. Oh, if anyone needs any "C" parts that are not engine, trans or bodywork let me know
  17. Ian

    dirttrack volkswagen mopar

    That's my kinda project It looks to go rather well
  18. Thanks mate, yep crazy it certainly will be Hi Koen, it will be interesting to see what the front end does under power.. The brain says the front wheels should lift, but.... at least 75% of the weight will be at the front, so..... ??? Let's start this small update with a video shall we? To keep Nigel happy, here's a pic of him actually driving the forklift as the engine was moved from a pallet to a four wheel'd trolly thingy. Though I think the forklift fumes may of gone to his head a bit With the pallet out the way we could plonk parts in more or less the right place.. For the comedy value the wheels were put where they would be on a standard WH... A bit narrow me thinks I like this view, with the wonky wheels and panels it kinda looks like a wacky cartoon I'm trying to be good and get MadTrax finished before I start on this build, but you just know I have to have a fiddle and make a start even if it's only getting everything in the right place so I can take some measurements.. A lot to work out first before I can even think about making a chassis! And to finish this update, have another video.. Wheel-Vo part 2.
  19. Ian

    Newby Hall Day 1

    Great photo's guys
  20. Ian

    Wheelhorse under wraps at Newby Hall

    Interesting thinking, unbolt the bonnet/hood and bolt a train body in it's place.. I wonder what other styles of body could be bolted on?
  21. Ian

    A FEW More Newby Hall.

    Great photo's Norm, thanks for posting them Of course I'd happily take all the Wh's home, and that superb Super 4 as well
  22. Thanks mate, good of you to notice Hi Paul, mad it certainy will be Loopy and inventive... Sounds like the perfect combo to me It's been a very busy and heavy week, but when needs must.. The Volvo engine bay now looks like this.. Engine out.. A big thank you to Rob (far right) who has put a lot of time in over the past 7+ days to help me get this stage done. A thank you to Matt (far left) who did the very careful forklift driving to pull the engine and trans out.. And a thank you to Nigel (middle) for offering advice, getting in the way sometimes, and for sitting on the forklift to make it look like he did the driving Back in the workshop with a few parts plonked in place.. Only roughly plonked as the pallet is getting in the way and the engine is leaning to one side.... But you get the idea To make the engine run a few wires are needed.... Quite a few as it happens.. I need the complete loom from the engine bay back to the front doors.. Which looked like this once the dash had come out.. The fuse and relay box! I won't be needing all of them thankfully!. Why so many wires? Well, being a "modern"-ish car I need one of these brains to run the fuel injection system.. And one of these which is engine management.. I've not opened it up yet to check, I have a feeling it's one of the ECU's that can be "chipped" to get the engine producing the power it should be rather than the "tamed back" from the factory as it is now.. The loom out the car! I won't need about 75% of this as I won't be running power window, rear screen heater, power sunroof or even the headlamp wash/wipers! I think I'm going to need a very good wiring diagram But I do plan to use as many of the guages as I can.. The Volvo now looks like this and is ready for the "metal monkeys" (as I call them) to come and collect. Parts removed.. Engine, trans, wiring loom... Propshaft. Four wheels to smoke the tyres/tires off of Rear axle.. And a new bit of wall decoration
  23. Morning all, well Project Wheel-Vo has taken a big step forward this week as the new running gear has been found... You might say it's been safely kept in this big metal box A "can't quite get he's head around my thinking" Nigel gives the Volvo 940 2.3 SE Turbo a That's quite a big 4 pot! A Volvo B230FK if your into engine numbers. Here's the important bit... The turbo Size wise a manual gearbox would be smaller, but an auto does make life easier... Also I kinda like the idea of being able to keep both hands on the steering wheel during launch as well I dug out the WH 312-8 bonnet/hood to have a look size wise...... This pic makes me look totally nuts for even thinking of this project! However, lift the bonnet/hood up and plonk the said WH item on and suddenly the engine does not look that big.. A certain amount of errr... "Scaling up" is going to be needed on the WH panels but not as much as I had 1st thought as the actual auto box isn't as long as I had 1st thought. Of course I have to fit a radiator and intercooler under the hood as well. I will be using the Volvo rear axle, they are known to be strong and (quite handy for me) easy to narrow As of yesterday here's where I have got to.. Just need to disconnect the shifter linkage, speedo cable (I think the speedo is driven from the 'box), unplug any electrical bits, unbolt the propshaft, unbolt the 'box crossmember and then the engine and trans can be removed as one.. Glad I have the use of a forklift No idea why the forum software want to put this duplicate pic in at the end, but I can't seem to get rid of it!
  24. Ian

    Ian

  25. This was about four cars in front of me yesterday, as luck would have it the traffic lights changed just in time for me to jump out and get a quick snap.. It's not everyday you see this sort of thing on the road A closer up..
×