riber3

Thanks Nigel for your reply I am tending to agree as the price of parts will probably make it uneconomical to rebuild!!

Hello everyone, The Briggs & Stratton 3.5hp engine on my old hayter is now sadly on its way out.It uses a fair bit of oil and its now starting to rattle at the bottom end if used for too long. The carb could probably do with replacing too. I don't if its worth stripping down and rebuilding the engine with new parts or getting a direct replacement? I would welcome any thoughts on which would be the best solution.

That's an impressive cut!!!

Many thanks for the additional info I am sure I will make good use of it

Good News!! I got brave yesterday and had a bit of free time so I took the recoil starter apart and manged to re-tension and got it working S1g is absolutely right (never doubted it) as th metal lip that holds the spring is not of a great quality so will look for a spare Honda one but all the same got it back together fitted new pull rope and back in business. Also fitted new spark plug and hey presto fired up and ran quite well and compressor came up to pressure, Just needs a little fettling to get it running a bit smoother and I should be good to go. I will order a nw as well just it case I have any further issues but my thanks to everyone for their replies and help. Especially S1g I am currently reading through your other post at present and its very good!!! Here are some pics of the starter if anyone needs them

Hi I am talking about the rectangled shaped one nearest the engine on the left side of the photo nearer to the return spring and has a plastic screw attached to it.. As for the other towards the front bottom middle of the photo I think that is the choke as it operates the front butterfly. Just to add more to my woes the pull starter recoil spring has unwound and its the type with the 2 locking pawls. I don't know if there is a good easy method of re- tensioning it or if I have to strip it down!! Either way I think getting another carb might be the easier route to go. Forgot to say yes I did take off the choke lever as that is broken and I am waiting for a replacement to arrive

Thanks for the update and because you have been so good to me I unpacked my shelves and took some more photos. Hope you like them!!

Thanks for the reply and for your help. I was going to do a word doc with a couple of arrows pointing to the plastic lever I'm talking about (I can do this if my following explanation makes no sense!! I took off the air filter housing yesterday and took a couple of photos of the top of the carb and the plastic lever on the top left I can move manually from the the 6 0 clock position to the 3 o clock position. I am not sure what position it should be in and if something else should be attached to it? Dear S1g I just read about your arthritis and I sincerely emphasize and I hope things are not too bad with this cold weather. I was diagnosed with early onset arthritis in my wrists and can be a problem at times but I refuse to let it get the better of me until it does!!. I also hope you got a good price for your stuff in the end. Sometimes I give stuff away for recycling such as cordless tools and other bits and bobs that maybe of help to others.

Many thanks for the information it is heavy LOL but I was given both the blue ones and the red one a few years back. I did get one running but due a major house renovation they have sat on the back burner for a while but th information you have given me is a big help and inspiration as well as the photos on here of course. Is TSP a thinners solvent ?

Many thanks for the info and here is a photo of my sad little collection that I hope to get on with later in the year

Thanks for the link I have been checking the writing on the side of the carb I thinks its a G27 something then ends 8453

Thanks S1g for your reply and its a shame that you threw a load of stuff out as I probably would have made some space for it all in case other people needed a few bits. Especially as I Have just finished tidying up my little workshop!!! LOL. Well I have have good look around for a fair few hours now and no luck but taking on board what you say and looking at it again. I think its part of the throttle linkage. In as much that the little plastic screw is adjustable I think maybe for tick over.and whatever is missing ie another pic of plastic that joins them up attaches to them togerther. Pretty much what you said above ( I think) Sorry I got your tag wrong I should have said S1g

Found another way of looking but still a pain and that is trying to match info to amazon and ebay photos no luck as yet but will persevere. Just to add salt to the wound my pull start rope just snapped Damm!!!

No worries I had a quick look but not found anything as yet even if its a copy it should have something similar to look at

Many thanks for your reply and the link I will take a look and see what I can find

Woe is me sadly whilst moving home the guy helping me knocked over my compressor and the air filter housing broke along with some plastic levers on top of the carb. I know one is the choke but I am struggling to identify the other piece or how it works position wise as my download guide is not very good. Its a 13Hp 188f copy of the GX390 and I have attached a couple of photos so any help would be very welcome so that I can get it fixed. Many thanks in advance. Its the black part with what looks like a screw head in the second photo and the bit below it turns in 90 degrees

Wow that is stunning!! in fact I think I may have a similar one will check tomorrow in the meantime can anyone point in the direction of how to renovate a chainsaw as I have a couple that need sorting and I need to read up on how best to do this before I start

Many thanks again for all your help and your reply I hope it will also help other people in the future

Many thanks but I couldn't have done it without the help of the many contributors on this site especially Wristpin

Hiya, I didn't lose the post but strange things were definitely happening as I also had to reset my password last night. I do agree though its a long but brilliant thread and you have been an Absolute Superstar and I would like to send you a little something to say Thank you for all your help or make a donation to this site if you prefer. In the meantime GOOD NEWS I re-checked through everything this morning and I think the problem was with the stop wire holder on the throttle body as I mentioned it is a little worn. I disconnected the wire and checked and found that I had spark again. So I cleaned up the holder, refitted the wire and made sure the holder was snug after refitting and so far it has started everytime on 6 seperate occassions. I had already cleaned out the carb earlier so I didn't think it was that but it is something I would like to overhaul in the future. I am know going to add a smalll video (hope the site takes it) so you can see and hear for yourself. Here goes!!! Sadly File too big even though I have zipped it Here is a photo of it running you can see the flywheel is not stationery. Happy to email the Video though!!!

I am not sure what happened to my other post last night as it seems to have disappeared so I am having to rewrite everything again but in word 1st just to be safe!! Plus I couldn’t load photos maybe the site rolled back??? Anyway, Firstly I thought that that on the old coil that the wire with the ring connector on the left which was mounted on the post body via the coil securing bolt was Earth. Secondly I thought that the wire on the right was possibly Positive and providing power to the condenser and points. Then the other wire that that comes out from under the flywheel (wherever that’s connected to) goes directly to the stop switch. Please forgive me and yes I agree I am a bit thick at times LOL!!! So now I have cut off the right hand wire on the old coil which is what I thought was Positive and needing to be connected to the new Magnetron Coil. I realise now that since Wristpin has clarified this for me that this is not the case and I have removed the old coil. So on that note I think I have clarified my previous reply and don’t need to add anything further (I Hope LOL!!). Well now onto the good news/bad news, I fitted the new coil as per instructions, set the timing up, connected the stop wire to the stop wire switch and low and behold I got a spark. Then I lost the spark I rechecked everything again 3 times over and got a spark which I captured on film which isn’t very exciting and I am not sure if I can post it up but happy to provide a copy if anyone wants one. So at this point I had 4 or 5 consistent pulls with a spark so I refitted the plug. Put in some fresh fuel and tried starting it, After a few wrist breaking pulls it fired into life I then moved the throttle from full choke to run and it then died and I have lost spark again. So now I am going to recheck everything again as I am not sure why I keep losing spark. Yippee photos have loaded, Middle pic is Timing being set up and the last is of the stop wire connector block on the throttle plate which is a bit of brass and plastic and not very good

Sorry for confusing matters as I had in my head that there was a positive wire that I needed to make a connection to I will comeback to this point later as I think it is very important but I have some news that I want to share

Not to worry and many thanks for trying. Looks like I am going to have to get the wire cutters out of the tool box tomorrow LOL!!!

Many thanks for the help and look forward to hearing from you. Hopefully I can this done tomorrow and see if it will fire up!!!

Many thanks for the reply. In the box there is a set of instructions which reads as follows: (I hope I have received the right part) The stop switch assembly has 2 wires. 1 with a ring terminal and 1 with no terminal. Connect the spade terminal to the spade terminal on the armature. Select the appropriate wire for the type of stop terminal the engine uses. Cut off the remaining wire and discard. Tape the end of the wire with electrical tape. So what I have done so far is connected the spade to spade on the new coil. I was hoping that I could just connect the the ring wire on the new coil to the body of the machine which mirrors the old one. But I still have to cut the wire that is currently connected to the old coil as I don't think I can disconnect it without trying to give it a good Yank and hoping for the best or remove the flywheel which I am trying to avoid. And as you say I may have to connect this wire to the new coil. I just hope that the other end of the connection is ok.