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Morrisoft

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Posts posted by Morrisoft
 
 

  1. On 24/10/2017 at 9:45 PM, factory said:

    I thought the spring & washer would have been long gone, I will have a look at the weekend to see what I've got, I definitely have a spare needle. The housing sounds OK, they usually only get damaged from over-tightening, causing it to snap at the thinnest section.

     

    Yes petrol is good for cleaning the fuel tank, that is exactly what I use.

    I usually leave some fresh petrol in for a few days, if there is a lot of dirt in the bottom of the tank I also put some nuts in the tank with the fuel and shake it to dislodge the dirt. Pour out the contents and repeat if necessary.

    You can also check the pipes are not blocked by part filling the tank and tilting it vertically (with something underneath to catch the fuel).

     

    David

     

    Hi David, 

     

    Hope your weekend has been nice thus far. I potentially have a replacement needle valve via webhead as per your suggestion, many thanks to both on that matter.

     

    In regards to the fuel tank, I've managed to clear the majority of the gunk inside (still soaking on third round of petrol + nails/junk) and have cleared the two breather feeds on the tank with no problems.

     

    The fuel feed (internal to the tank) that goes to the carb still seems to be blocked (no flow through of fuel, even when inverting the tank) - any ideas are welcomed, would prefer not to crack open the bottom unless I'm left with no other option.

     

    Also, the gasket/paper seal for the fuel tank cap is long since gone/perished, can a new one be fashioned from thick card or similar?

     

    Cheers

     

    On 25/10/2017 at 4:04 AM, Webhead said:

    I have needles and screws. As David said, do not re-use the foam, clean and re-gap the points, and the coils rarely, if ever, go bad.

     

    Many thanks - have dropped you a PM.. 👍 


  2. Hi David.

    Thank you for your detailed response.

     

    In regard to the needle valve, as shown in the picture I uploaded, is all I have unfortunately, there does however appear to be a seal of sorts upon to the top of the housing for the needle screw.

    It's marked slightly and the original was damaged/broken due to over-tightening from small hands - hoping the housing is fine, I will try to get better pictures uploaded tomorrow for that.

     

    Thank you for the links and info on bolts, I will be ordering some fairly soon I'm sure.

     

    Any label upon the band itself is long since gone which is a shame but once it fires we shall know for sure either way. Sounds like a 110v (& 12v) @ 300w as you suggest.

     

    As for the fuel tank, I'm going to give it a good clean as the (inside) bottom of the tank is gunked up quite badly. Will petrol be suffice to clean it up? 

     

    Cheers.


  3. On 20/10/2017 at 11:21 PM, factory said:

     

    :WMOM:

     

    Replacement carb diaphragms are available from either Wallfish or Webhead on here.

     

    I may be able to help with a replacement carb needle. I've just received an engine with a screw fitted instead of the needle assembly myself.

    SAM_9714b.jpg.d9eb8183f1d4187a19e9cd2e1f3b08cf.jpg

     

    It's good that the air filter foam came out in one piece, if it doesn't crumble to bits it probably isn't the original, I always replace it anyway as foam usually deteriorates with age.

     

    Your engine uses a 10mm short reach spark-plug, the original would have been a Champion UY6, these are still available.

     

    They usually need the contact breaker points cleaning, I don't think I've had many problems with the coils (except with really early engines), the condenser can be replaced with a modern one if it is faulty and Webhead or Wallfish have got any spares. I keep looking for a modern condenser/capacitor that would fit inside the original can, but haven't found anything suitable yet.

     

    The screws/bolts used on these engines are all UNC/UNF sizes, look after the originals as ones with the correct narrow head (fillister) are not usually found in the UK. I have found some ex-military ones but they are usually too short.

     

    Interesting to hear your Tiny Tiger was originally from the Philippines, I can see the original distributors label in one of the pictures, is the generator a 110V or 240V version?

     

    David

     

    Morning David. Many thanks for the warm welcome and quick response.

     

    In regard to the carburetor needle, I have included a picture below so you may see the damage that occured. Please let me know how much you require for the replacement, I am able to send the broken one back to you if you feel it's fixable?

    20171022_093035.jpg.1b3eb844961230d303f9b4c38478f105.jpg

    Haven't seen this needle type on other engines, not sure if it matters?

    20171022_093042.jpg.72dca3251dcf58b43909f778c80069c8.jpg

     

    Thank you for the information pertaining to the spark plug - I have ordered 2 fresh ones.

     

    I shall check the contact points with a meter later today, they looked relatively clean on first inspection though so perhaps it'll give us a better idea of what's up.

     

    In relation to the nuts/bolts I did have a feeling they wouldn't be easy to obtain - the flywheel cover for mine came with two screws missing and wondered how easily replaced they would/wouldn't be.

     

    Lastly, regarding the Philippines, indeed the distributor there appeared to import them from the US, I forget where, but on this basis I would assume 110v rather than 240v, I shall confirm this once we have it running again either way. The owner was under the impression it was 120v and 12v @ 9amps , depending on which output you took from the generator. We shall see soon enough 👌🏼

     

    Progress yesterday was slow, but did manage to polish and remove all traces of rust and the majority of surface pitting to the air filter housing and muffler, cleaned the base plate, handle and fuel tank of any corrosion/tarnishing too.


  4. Good evening folks.

    Very impressed with all the work I've read about on keeping these beauties running.

     

    First off.. here's the engine!

    IMG_20171019_093219_481.jpg.4744bdcb9cb5812d115b37c74699c866.jpg

     

    I am under the impression I can get a replacement diaphragm/gasket and intend to do so provided they're still available? That aside, the needle screw valve on my engine carburetor was sheared from overtightening by small fingers! Is there a suitable replacement for these? (I will attach a photo when possible)

     

    I was surprised to find the original air filter foam intact and healthy albeit a little darkened. (See small bag below right of tank)IMG_20171019_094637_850.jpg.ea96cbedb4ae7cede17b95e445a01aa5.jpg

     

    The previous owner had cherished this engine for many a hike in the mountains. The care shows, it's just unfortunate that small fingers damaged some things. I have repaired the starter which had been over-pulled and jammed.

     

    Fairly confident compression is good, are replacement spark plugs easy to source? 

     

    I also wondered if there is anyone with knowledge of coil/condenser repair? These parts of the engine have developed a fault and is choosing not to spark. Will check more closely tomorrow to be certain but I fear internal breakdown of the coil.

     

    Is it possible to get new bolts/screws for these at all?

     

    Did I mention the engine&generator have travelled to the UK with me, all the way from the Philippines?

     

    Thanks in advance.

    Cheers  

    IMG_20171019_093219_511.jpg

    IMG_20171019_093219_494.jpg

    IMG-20171018-WA0004.jpeg

    IMG-20171017-WA0017.jpeg

    IMG_20171019_093219_527.jpg

    VID_78680702_145534_379.mp4

 
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