BeemerNut

My 4 1/2" Bosch angle grinder also started to labor down and when it was off you couldn't turn the flap wheel at all. Lucky it didn't melt and destroy the plastic bearing mounting. The small bearing as in your photo had seized up, it was a shielded bearing now replaced with a sealed bearing a $4.73 USD bearing. Also added a little disc brake wheel bearing grease to the gearbox she's good as new again. Same with Porter Cable power tools, they went cheap installing junk shielded bearings vs sealed as well oiled not greased that had run dry and failing bearings. Everyone now sealed bearings. Milwaukee power tools made in China rubbish living off their past tool reputation of their older made in the USA Milwaukee tools. Lucas and Bosch starter motor in the 95 Land Rover Discover were all rubbish, the Nippon starter out lasting them all. Good thing a 5 speed and can bump start it a rare vehicle in the USA vs automatic transmission rubbish.

David, that Chip A Saw was a $15 garage sale item stuffed in a cardboard box, spring wired to the blade. I had to buy it being an engine nut. One starter pawl also missing. I was thinking any O&R pull start cover should fit as an replacement ? I was told it was held together by a shouldered bolt not riveted together. Heck I have a O-45-1 Kiekhaefer 750 cc twin opposed WWII drone engine as well a Righter O-15-3 250 cc WWII drone engine. Still hate myself for selling the NIB Gannett 15 cc 4 stroke engine with optional magneto on the back, 47 years later wanting a replacement. Have a 4 stroke 10 cc, recall a Jensen engine with a few parts missing, told it was English? I was in England during "the storm of the century", couldn't find any Matchless G80 parts, all exported. Have a TAS 1 1/2 Hp outboard, new still which is identical to the 1 1/2 Hp Cruise N Carry outboard plus two Cruise N Carry 2.7 Hp outboards. One 2.7 has the ignition system missing as it will run once complete again. The PO removed the ignition it thinking it was defective when the magneto kill wire on the engine tiller was pinched going to ground. Had a O&R 3/4 Hp gold dredge with 1 1/2" diameter pump given to me, ran 20 seconds from new by PO then quit. Factory forgot to install one washer holding the rod big end needle bearing in place. Two needles punched a hole in the botton of the crankcase. Drilled out clean holes then set two aluminum rivets in the holes. Needle and washer replacements it ran great then sold it back in the 70's when gold prospecting was a big thing. Had a 20 Hp Mercury outboard motor instead hooked up to a big pump for a gold dredge a vast upgrade vs the tiny O&R dredge in an inner tube. Cruise N Carry 2.7 Hp outboard motor parts i'm skunked for years as I'd like to complete that engine. Sorry for hijacking i'm guilty. Great postings about O&R engines, thanks. With bikes I have 10 total, dad's 38 Zundapp which was a roller less engine which dad fit a 46 Matchless 500 thumper with CP transmission into the frame with Triumph forks, Ardie rear plunger suspension back in 1951 while on vacation. His to work and everday bike up to 2002 (RIP age 80). I have a 61 Matchless 600 thumper 1 of 125 made from 1959 to 61, all exports none in England. Three Nortons, 73 and 74 850's, 66 R27 BMW, 70 R75/5, 75 R90/6 and 76 R90s in Daytona Orange. The runaround project bike a 85 XL 350 thumper under 3K original miles. It will have a lot of 84 XR 350 engine parts installed then a street only bike. Clone of the Morton M5 five cylinder radial 4 stroke engine called a MAH (?) of 15 cc's I need to hear run like the drone engines. I belong with a group of 16 or 17 drone engine collectors all across the USA that own and run them. Proud to be not normal.....~~=o&o>........

Don, I had to laugh as a couple hrs ago I moved my Tiny Tiger generator out of the way to another safe location looking behind it for motorcycle shocks I stashed away in storage. Your case wanting 12 volt DC output for battery charging I would add a Zener diode with heat sink to the circuit to the battery. I recall wet cell batteries should be charged at 13.7 volts max, Battery Minder and other float charge at 13.4 volts. Going higher you had better keep an eye on the acid levels in the cells as they go down quicker over time. Zener diode voltage limiter system was used on Norton motorcycles as well other British bikes years ago, they all ran zener diodes. With the engine charging above idle like 2,400 rpm's and higher to redline the excess voltage above 13.7 or 14.3 volts the generator made was blocked by the zener and converted to heat by the zener hence the reason for the heat sink. Yes a crude voltage limiting system but it worked. Thinking any 12 volt Norton, BSA or Triumph zener not an early 6 volt system zener so heads up. One way to go unless there is a modern replacement electronic regulator instead? Once assembled i'd check the generator's 12 volt output, possibly 120 volt output also while charging with generator under load then adjust the little manual governor lever for the proper voltage. I think I adjusted to 115 volts while running a small drill motor as a load and recall checking for 60 cycle numbers getting the engine set to the proper rpm's. Should your 120 output only read 97 volts no matter the the governor lever position or manually forcing to full throttle revving the engine high your generstor is toast. Just be careful with the generator don't rev the snot out of the engine. This forum or by someone else, I was told to NOT MANUALLY FULL THROTTLE the Tiny Tiger as you will read 150 to 170 plus volts output that can damage the generator windings then your screwed. My governor lever was set at maximum rpm's detent position when I purchased it as the carb was plugged up and only ran on 1/2 choke, now it runs at the lowest setting and rpm's. It ran only a couple minutes from purchased new and put away for several years. My generator has the big flat aluminum muffler as well the gas tank looking like a brick on edge of cast aluminum. The brass pickup tube sticking out of the tank, has small holes for gas to enter, they were plugged up from years of storage with gas not drained. Unclogged the tube as well carefully disassembled the carb and cleaned out the gummy oil then assembled. No replacement gaskets required it fired right up, she's a cutie and a keeper. Also picked up a Chip-A-Saw, with the O&R 3/4 Hp engine, it needs a screw and washer for holding the pull start hub or rope pully assembled inside the cover. Came in a box with spring another fun puzzle to wind up and assemble later.....~~=o&o>......

Dave, on my Tiny Tiger 350 watt unit i'll have to do a test and connect the Fluke 87 meter to the generator as this meter has the ability to read in Hz or frequency. On 2 stroke oil's I run Redline's Synthetic Racing oil. Been impressed running it for years and all I run in my chainsaws, Stihl weed wacker. The Eton powered sit down scooter (Cobra Scooter) with the big balloon tyres and 41.5 cc Eton engine it has been running over 17 years with the original cylinder, piston and rings. About every 3rd day riding between 3 1/2 to 9 mile loops from home, add a couple times each loop at full throttle for app 1/8 mile turning 9, 700 to 10,200 rpm's depending on the temps and humidity. Running extra oil plus It's geared 30% over factory gearing. It runs two 5 mm belt drives. Engine to jack shaft, jack shaft to rear wheel. I machined down "D" drive gear's OD, pressed on a larger gear which the ID is bored out, added a disc one side for belt tracking control. Other drive or driven gear has a opposite side lip for belt control. On my bike collection riding to shows or gatherings the tanks are 50/50% Union 76 110 octane racing gas of 3.8 grams/gallon TE Lead. The other 50% is 10 to 15% alcohol blended pump gas garbage which also has an oxygen additive. We also have winter and summer blended gas, a lower vapor flash temp for winter driving. Away from home refills with unleaded pump gas with alcohol blend which I add four times the normal amount a lead substitute additive. Sodium based additive I recall. Once home with an empty tank, carb bowls drained then filled with a gallon of Union 76's racing gas which does not go stale even a year later in the tank before starting the engine again. All my bikes must run leaded gas, i'll protect the exhaust seats and valves vs a unleaded conversion on nine bikes. Rather expensive plus factory original bikes. The 85 XL350 Honda Enduro designed to run unleaded swill. On those Gannett engines the air cooled versions are rather rare a low production of them. The wet cylinder versions i'd bet are 96% of production. No clue of the amount of magneto equipped engines produced. Saw a couple Gannett's at a model gas and steam powered model boat pond in San Francisco. Any price ranges and condition of these engines? The 40's to late 50's another 4 stroke engine made in England, recall Jensen (?) a 10 cc engine. I have this engine taken apart stored away which has several missing parts. Carb, push rods, ignition points plus other small parts. It was given to me in the early 60's as a 10 year old kid. I'm 66, mentally holding at age 12, I refuse to grow up......~~=o&o>.......

Dave, thanks for your reply it answered my question about the fan vane spring adjustment on the butterfly shaft. It was set at the highest spring tension from day one purchased by the original owner. He didn't know about the governor spring tension lever plus he only ran it a couple times amounting to a few minutes run time then added it to his collection of small model gas engines. I reset the governor lever to the lowest spring tension hence the 109 to 110 volts no load readings. I read on this forum the engine should be run at 6,300 rpm's. Time to locate the tiny tach with wire that wraps around the ignition wire for induction tach rpm readings. Had me thinking your 50 Hz 230 volts vs 60 Hz 120 or 230 volts in the USA. Did they make a 230 volt European version of the Tiny Tiger? On another note I was north of London 130 Km on "holiday"when the 1987 storm of the century struck the UK. Found that McDonald's hamburgers tasted the same in the UK and Japan as in the USA. I'll never sell my Norton 850's and Matchless 500 and 600 thumper, they have the proper shift lever location, right hand for which I was raised on riding bikes. USA in 1975 and later (RIP Norton post 75) had to conform to new USA law, all bikes 75 and newer must have left hand shift to not confuse new or young weak minded riders. Mickey Mouse linkage added to the Norton's sucked as well the kick assist electric starter added rubbish. It's a reflex thing with me with right hand shift. A mental relearning thing when riding the BMW bikes, R75, R90/6, R90s, R27 plus the 85 XL 350R Honda Enduro thumper being converted to 100% street duty. It takes several hundreds miles retraining the brain to reflex riding not thinking it out riding left hand shift. Solid rain here in the San Francisco bay area, feels like i'm in the UK again. By the way, stupid me in the early 1970's sold a true 4 cycle 15 cc Gannett (made in England) engine with optional magneto. http://modelenginenews.org/cardfile/gan_chinn.html. You run across any Gannett engines? I had the water cooled cylinder, wish it was the lower production air cooled version instead as I would of kept it. You run across any Gannett engines for sale? Carl.....~~=o&o>.........

Is the unloaded generator output voltage to be set by the engine's governor rpm's or predetermined by the frequency in Hz under load allowing the fan operated governor to buck against the coil spring controlling the throttle butterfly? With the governor lever set at the lightest spring pressure I read 109 to 110 volts no load. Manually overpowering the governor, aka full throttle it read 164 volts at no load running the engine too high of rpm's for my liking. Heck the lightly modified 41.5 cc Eton scooter engine turns 11,400 with 17 years use almost daily running Redline oil with original rings, modified muffler, it net 43 mph. At a no load condition there is a slight rpm variation "hunting" which becomes stable rpm once under load of a 3.0 amp drill motor spinning free as well with locked rotor (held chuck) of the drill motor. A slight 4 stroke stumble at no load just starting to become a clean running 2 cycle under load. Running Redline 2 stroke racing oil at 24:1, just a trace of smoke. Any replies would be great on the above question about setting the governor. Thanks as I have no owner's manual on this generator........~~=o&o>.........

Yes an old thread but had to ask if it sold and for how much? Reason asking I purchased a 1 Hp O & R generator of 350 watt output with the 5001-1 tag on the generator. It's the exact same generator unit as in your pictures above, large tank with the flat aluminum muffler. It had been run a couple times when purchased new years ago then stored away in like new condition down to the yellow paper instruction disc around the spark plug. IMPORTANT NOTICE never use sand blast cleaned spark plug in this engine, never put steel rod in the exhaust port). No operator's manual but came in the original Tiny Tiger cardboard box, the four top folding flaps are missing. Removed the stale skunky gas, flushed the tank with Berrymann's B-12, removed and cleaned the carb internally, it was almost ready to run. Had to remove the metal pickup tube as the brass filter screen was 100% blocked up with thick sticky varnish, Berrymann's B-12 carb cleaner with compressed air forcing carb cleaner through the filter took care of that, it now runs. Last one I had was back in the late 60's / early 70's given to me because it wouldn't start. Stuck carb check ball an easy fix and like an idiot I sold it. This time it's a keeper.......~~=o&o>........

factory; it was an Onan generator offered for contractors back in the late 60's on the 68 to 72 "Bump Side" body style PU's. A couple photos of the Onan generator mounted in a F250 pickup. Photos at the start of this site, after just a bunch of useless photos. Taken off the Ford Truck Forum; https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=Ford+pickups+with+gas+generator+under+hood&fr=yhs-pty-pty_email&hspart=pty&hsimp=yhs-pty_email&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi249.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg213%2Fheehawpunk%2F70F250_generator061.jpg#id=0&iurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi249.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg213%2Fheehawpunk%2F70F250_generator051.jpg&action=click. Picked up a model 219 O & R generator recently like last sunday ($60) like new had been test run only. Have the Tiny Tiger box. Also have a Chip A Saw needing a washer and screw (?) to hold the pull start together. I also collect WWII drone engines, have two, one Righter 250 cc opposed, one Kiekhaefer (Mercury Marine) 750 cc opposed. Both complete w/props, need to hear them run. I'm with a group of 17 "DroneHeads" across the US that collect and restore these drone engines. 6:1 down to 8:1 gas to oil ratio mix. Have a Burgess Battery M5 Morton radial model engine w/3 blade aluminum prop looking like a DC3 prop. Another need to hear run engine. Not normal, you bet, own 10 bikes, have a good wifey.....~o&o>........

Rats, missed out on that one in my 68 F250 Camper Special. There also was a under hood generator offered for contractors. The mighty 427 FE's are still alive.