I recently purchased a supply of the 1/16" and 3/32" chrome steel ball bearings used for check valves in most of the O&R carburetors. These are high quality ball bearings precision rated G25. If you need some, just drop me a PM.
Thanks for the heads up on the brake fluid. Walmart is about the only place that I did not look. Like you, I had an old rusted can in the garage for about 30 years and finally pitched it never knowing that I might need it in the future. I will visit Walmart in the morning. Were you ever able to mail me a grounding strap for #2?
Hi John - Where in the world do you find DOT 3 non synthetic brake fluid? I have tried to find it, but all the auto parts stores that have DOT 3 only have it in the synthetic formula. Any ideas where you might be able to find the old stuff?
My guess is that the point have a build up on them. If you already cleaned the points, then a tiny piece of debris got into the points, which will make them run like poop. It will misfire, backfire and stall out.
Once the governor shaft is in the carburetor, it will stay in. It is a loose fit, but it does not come out. Sometimes it is a little tricky getting it into the hole in the carburetor and keeping it in the hole while you are mounting the carburetor, but once you get the carburetor mounted, the shaft will stay in the hole.
Hi Tim - I have never had a governor vane out of the engine case, but from what you are describing it sounds like you should slide the grommet on the governor shaft when it is not in the the engine case. This will allow the grommet to stretch as it goes over the wider area on the shaft. Then put some lubricant on the grommet and push it into the hole in the engine case with the governor vane inside of the grommet. Just a guess, but it seems like the way to address it.
I used chainsaw mix in mine, but I add a few extra drops of oil in the tank just to be safe. These engines of the 1960's are not built like the engines of today. A small amount of extra oil in the gas makes for a happy two stroke.
I know it seems strange, but the intake manifold, where it bolts to the engine block does have two identical gaskets. The first time I saw that, I thought it was a mistake, but having two gaskets is correct. Perhaps they needed the extra gasket to get proper alignment for the governor shaft? To remove the governor shaft you will need to remove the recoil starer cover and pull the governor vane and shaft out through that side. The governor shaft just sits loosely in a rubber grommet on the engine back plate.
I use a product called Kreem on my chainsaw tanks. It is a gas tank liner, but will also work as a sealer. The problem is that it comes in a 16 oz bottle and you probably only need 1 oz. or less. The best bet would be to go or have someone go to an auto parts store and ask for a gas tank sealer in a tube. I am sure that they would have something in a small tube that would work.
Tim - If you have the generator that I think you do, the tank should unbolt from the bottom. The reason I suggest unbolting the tank is so that you can wash it out to get any gas and fumes out of it before applying heat with the heat gun. Another option would be to pour out all the gas out of the tank, if there is still any in there and then leave it outside in the sun with the gas cap off to let any residual gas evaporate and then use the heat gun. You would heat that steel plate up around the outer edges and then push it out from the inside of the tank. You can use epoxy mix to re-seal the tank as long as it is gas resistant.
Hi Tim - I wonder if you bought the same one that I bought one eBay back in May. It was advertised as NOS, but when I got it, it appeared like it may have been run once a long time ago, but not for very long. Because of the age, I put new diaphragms in the carburetor and installed new fuel lines. I put gas in it and it started leaking out of the bottom seam of the gas tank. The seller offered me $100.00 off, but I declined and returned it. Since then, I read an article another person posted about repairing these tanks. Basically you have to remove the tank from the frame. Then wash it out with soapy water to remove any gas fumes. The take a heat gun and heat the outside panel of the tank. The tank is cast aluminum except for the outside panel, which is steel. You heat that panel enough to soften the original sealer and then take a piece of wood or a screwdriver and going in through the gas filler neck, you push the panel out , so it separates from the aluminum tank. Don't try to pry it because it will bend and you will not be able to reseal it. Once you remove that panel, clean all the sealer off the the panel and the area where it mates on the aluminum tank. Then get a gas proof sealer and put a fresh bead on the sealing areas on both the aluminum tank and the steel panel and then press them together. Position the tank so that the steel panel is facing up and put some weight on it - a pound or two to help give it a good seal. Then let it sit for 6 - 8 hours and then you can reassemble it.
Thank you for your note. I saw that one, but the seller says that it will not come off the manifold because it is badly rusted. They tried to remove the retaining nut, but could not get it to budge. The cylinder and piston are scored and the crankshaft is rusted, so there are not a lot of good parts there. I just can't see spending over $50.00 for a badly rusted muffler. I was hoping that someone had a good used one at a reasonable price. Thanks again for responding...Bob
Tim - I cannot post pictures on this site, but if you will give me your regular e-mail address I will send you pictures showing how to access that back screw. I have never replaced a rope, so any information you can share would be greatly appreciated.
I recently purchased a Ohlsson & Rice Tiny Tiger style engine but it came without the muffler. It does have the silver exhaust manifold, but the three piece muffler is missing. I could also use the muffler "L" shaped mounting rod with the retaining nut. If you have one laying around that you do not need, I would like to buy it from you. Thanks...Bob
That piece is a check valve to keep the crankcase pressure within the crankcase. It allows the fuel and air to enter the crankcase on the intake stroke and then seals the crankcase for the compression/ignition stroke. I am amazed if your engine is running without it. You must be getting a lot of blow back through the carburetor and into the air filter. Your engine will run much better with that flapper in place.
Not sure which gasket you are calling the flapper gasket? If you are referring to the one that goes between the bottom base assembly and the top, there are two pieces. One is a thick gasket that goes on the bottom and a check valve (flapper) that goes on top of that. The purpose of that is to keep the crankcase pressure from coming back through the carburetor. If those are missing, I am surprised that it runs at all. Did you meant that the flapper is there, but the thick gasket under it is missing?
Thanks...!!
O&R Carburetor Check Valve Ball Bearings
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
I recently purchased a supply of the 1/16" and 3/32" chrome steel ball bearings used for check valves in most of the O&R carburetors. These are high quality ball bearings precision rated G25. If you need some, just drop me a PM.