jparkes43 27 #51 Posted June 8, 2015 Well i found the points. does this help you? James james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wristpin 400 #52 Posted June 8, 2015 Just looked at this topic for the first time . Don't know about broken rings but that bore does look a bit sad and has possibly suffered a partial seizure in the past. The crank taper, as has been commented on, is definitely the worse for wear and any clean up and recovery job will, at the best, be the best of a bad job. Basically the key is just to position the flywheel in the correct position to generate the spark in relation to the position of the piston in the compression/power strokes and the point that the contact breaker opens. It is the taper fit between the crank and the flywheel that it keep it in position - hence the importance of a good fit. If there is not a good interference fit the flywheel will loosen and the engine will "eat" keys. If the taper is good, providing that the ignition cam ring is located , it is quite possible to line up the flywheel with the key way, torque it up and run without a key but with a bad taper no amount of torquing or key replacement will succeed. You may be able to dress the roughness on the crank with a fine file and then lap the flywheel to the crank using first coarse and then fine valve grinding paste. I say may because my ratio of success to failure has not been good but if both components are damaged you have little to loose. The good news is that the H50/60 was used in big numbers on Atco 20/24 and 30 inch Heavy Duty cylinder mowers so there are a lot around - but not necessarily of the right crankshaft configuration - but worth a look at before taking the Stateside route. The carbs used on those engines could be a right pig if allowed to become badly contaminated with stale fuel and often resisted cleaning - even ultrasonic cleaning . If using compressed air, beware of blasting through the fuel inlet or you could end up with the minute needle seat somewhere across the workshop! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #53 Posted June 8, 2015 (edited) ok thanks for all the great information. after a long hard days work of cleaning in the head on the valves etc and other stuff. i have no more luck i am still at the same point. so i just want to really take it to a small engine / agricultural place just because they can positively say what is wrong. but i don't know, what do you guys say? any one want to take a look at it? james Edited June 8, 2015 by jparkes43 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wristpin 400 #54 Posted June 8, 2015 My guess is that any business will take one look at the scored bore and damaged crank and say "forget it". However it's amazing just what you can get away with but in your case I think that at the very least it will always be an "oil burner" ; but if you do the valves and sort the damaged taper without spending much, if nothing else it will be a good learning exercise. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris 642 #55 Posted June 8, 2015 I am sure a mate of mine has one of these engines sat on a shelf in his workshop Like Angus says its from an ATCO. I can ask what his plans are for it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #56 Posted June 8, 2015 i don't mind it being a bit of an oil burner but yes i know most people would look at it and suggest doing it. yes i will do the small bits and indeed good learning hear. oh really chris? thats interesting but i wont get to that yet i haven't given up yet. but it might still be nice for you to find out. many thanks guys james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #57 Posted June 10, 2015 hello, so guys i asked my local agricultural place that does repairs and they said that they would not do it as Tecumseh closed a few years ago and they have no stock left for parts. Looks like im on my own and got to keep working at it james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wristpin 400 #58 Posted June 10, 2015 They are right about Tecumseh giving up engine production - their main business is air conditioning equipment - but there's still plenty of stuff around but it may take a bit of hunting out. A new crank of the right spec may be a bit difficult and possibly expensive but unless it is a weird spec for the Wheelhorse a decent used one shouldn't be too much of a problem. Cant remember whether or not you have posted the full engine number and spec of your engine but if you post it again I'll have a look in the Tecumseh manual and see if I can locate the part number for the crank to compare with the Atco spec one. The flywheel should not be a problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 1,016 #59 Posted June 10, 2015 hello, so guys i asked my local agricultural place that does repairs and they said that they would not do it as Tecumseh closed a few years ago and they have no stock left for parts. Looks like im on my own and got to keep working at it james I think it's been longer than a few years ago since they pulled out of Engines. Had the same challenges when I did one. So if you are going to sort this yourself and I don't know your Skill or equipment level?, you're going to need tools like a Dial Indicator or a Micrometer to set the BTDC measurement which is 0.080" (2.032mm). It will be easier though, now you have the Head off. Also a Torque Wrench that deals with Inch Pounds (or equivalent) is essential. As you probably know, I've already checked the availability of some parts you may need and they are out there. They are right about Tecumseh giving up engine production - their main business is air conditioning equipment - but there's still plenty of stuff around but it may take a bit of hunting out. A new crank of the right spec may be a bit difficult and possibly expensive but unless it is a weird spec for the Wheelhorse a decent used one shouldn't be too much of a problem. Cant remember whether or not you have posted the full engine number and spec of your engine but if you post it again I'll have a look in the Tecumseh manual and see if I can locate the part number for the crank to compare with the Atco spec one. The flywheel should not be a problem. Jumping ahead in anticipation a bit here and hoping it saves you a bit of time, I have been checking numbers and it could be 1 of 4 Spec numbers for that Tractor. Using one as an example (75117h), the Crank part number is 30799 and is the same for the other 3 numbers (75118h/75117f/75118f).. ....the 'F' spec is for the Engines fitted to the '67' L/Ranger models. Would be a real blessing if it is the same Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #60 Posted June 11, 2015 ok thanks on the acto numbers etc, yes i will go and and check those. i do have access to lots of tools just i need to have a look through things before doing it. was that for the timing you was talking about i'm guessing james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
