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greenplane

got it started wont keep going?

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Hi All

Got my Osprey started , however it wont keep running it runs for around 10-15 seconds then dies , is easy enough to restart but does the same. has any one any ideas to the problem? and a solution please

Cheers

Mike

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Hello Mike,

                 The symptom you describe is similar to Rich settings of the Fuel Idle Needle and possibly the High Speed Needle?.

Have you set, or checked these to the manual I referred you to in your other Thread?.

You should have the 7HP engine Model nbr 170700 which should have the One Piece Large Flo Jet Carb version fitted. It look's like the one in my Thread on an Osprey HERE

Additionally, if you have set the needles correctly and their condition is good, then you may have a clogged Air Filter which can enrich the mixture. It must be clean and the paper membrane dry (not oil soaked).

Provided the Choke linkage has not been tampered with and correctly adjusted, it will open to the desired position with the Throttle Lever in the Start position, which sounds like it is doing so.

 

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tHANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP , THOUGH HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SETTINGS FOR THE CARB SCREWS, AS I DO NOT HAVE A MANUAL OR INSTRUCTIONS

apologies for the caps , i forgot it was on as just been doing some flyers for my Rc car business

Cheers

Mike 

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Ok, here is the link to your previous thread which includes the link to the Manuals for you to download. Just click/tap on your thread title below.

The link is in my reply, so just click/tap on the link word BRIGGS in my post to take you to their website to download the Manuals (2 manuals, User & Parts). Any probs, just come back here.

Regards.

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My mistake Mike. Thought you had a 5hp engine as fitted to a Hawk which I once had

 

Your carb has not got a diaphragm 

 

I agree with RichardB)

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My Carb looks like the pictures you sent and seems to work the same , though still starts but not wanting to keep running , I took the filter out as that's soaked in oil and black in colour, therefore I'm getting a new one. the internals of the car are clean, though I did notice at some point it has had some corrosion, the jets are cleaned out (did that).Cleaned the plug (just in case My late father would say) So what now? I have the throttle lever over to the furtherest position on the right (as you stand behind) then tweaking it slow towards the left. The fuel is good. Help?????

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  The air filter is foam and can be cleaned. It sounds as if it is in need of it. Wash it in hot soapy water, allow to dry. Apply some engine oil to it then squeeze out the surplus.

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2 hours ago, Stormin said:

  The air filter is foam and can be cleaned. It sounds as if it is in need of it. Wash it in hot soapy water, allow to dry. Apply some engine oil to it then squeeze out the surplus.

Problem is Norm, we don't know?. There are 2 types of Filter- The one on the left in the Prts Manual image (foam type element part nbr 270528) is the alternative version.

The one on the Right is what I am familiar with (Cartridge type prt nbr 393406) and seen on several example Machines and is not cheap.

58bc863fb040c_AFilter7hp.JPG.57163660aa5d94cabdd720ebeede75f7.JPG

Until we know how old Mike's machine is (going by an Engine Model, Spec and Serial number, we all  have to guess. 

 

 

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31 minutes ago, Stormin said:

It was his soaked in oil comment that made me think foam, Richard. Anyway, it'll be one or 'tother.

Yep !, understand that,  and I wondered if it was like my experience of finding the Cartridge filter soaked in oil from someone tipping the machine onto it's side and flooding it from the sump/crankcase.

Mike- While you are waiting for the new Air Filter (whichever one it is) , have you now got the Manuals?.

Remove both High Speed and Idle Needles and inspect the fine tapers on each (use a magnifying glass).

There should be no wear ridges on the taper faces. If there is, then they are allowing too much fuel through when they are set at the correct settings.

I would presume you would have to compensate for this  and reduce the specified setting for each needle?, as I always replace worn parts to make it easier to set things up.

Read page 6 of the User Manual and install/set the needles and if they ARE worn or damaged, you will have to compensate by reducing the number of turns by a fraction  (so they aren't open as much).

Once you have done this, and the new Air Filter is fitted, it should start and run better.

I assume the Fuel tank, line and filter are clean and the Carb Float valve is good?.

Also check the choke (butterfly plate) returns to open position when it warms up.

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It is a foam Filter So I will try this, the Needles I have taken out inspected and cleaned gently as there was some slight green on brass corrosion, the manual I do have but It is very sketchy But I only have the manual for the engine as in the Briggs and Stratton engine , not the complete machine I have a parts and exploded view but that's it . I will clean the filter out like earlier suggested. But I notice that the choke butterfly stays horizontal at all times it doesn't seem to go vertical (closed) at any time .The Machine was outside in east yorkshire for a long period of time close to the sea.

Any further Ideas would be a great help.

I know about engines etc but only RC car nitro's and 2 strokes the carbs on those are easy to fix in comparison to this one , I know its similar just larger, but it doesn't seem to be as simple, or as easy to remedy

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4 hours ago, greenplane said:

It is a foam Filter So I will try this, the Needles I have taken out inspected and cleaned gently as there was some slight green on brass corrosion, the manual I do have but It is very sketchy But I only have the manual for the engine as in the Briggs and Stratton engine , not the complete machine I have a parts and exploded view but that's it .

 

Sorry Mike, forgive me for being thick, but I'm not clear on what you have.

I presume you have the Engine User Manual that shows you minor service jobs like carb settings and filter cleaning etc.

An Engine Parts Manual which has exploded view images and Part Number Lists.

I don't understand the last bit, you don't have a Manual for the complete machine, but you have a parts and exploded view for it?. 

Here is a link to a Hayter Manual for the machine courtesy of Wrispin in my old Thread, but I don't know if it covers all Ospreys/21s, as they were updated over the years-

    OSPREY/21  

It would help if you can give us the full set of engine numbers so we can determine the age of it. There are several versions of Thottle/Governor, Choke and Ground Wire layouts.

 

4 hours ago, greenplane said:

I notice that the choke butterfly stays horizontal at all times it doesn't seem to go vertical (closed) at any time .

I know about engines etc but only RC car nitro's and 2 strokes the carbs on those are easy to fix in comparison to this one , I know its similar just larger, but it doesn't seem to be as simple, or as easy to remedy

 

So your Choke is not working either!. To understand why, I/we really need a picture now, as you may be missing parts.

Here is a 'Doctored' image of an Osprey (1972) that shows what should be there and where for you to compare. But note that not all Ospreys/Engines are the same-

Linkage.jpg.3196875e8a260d3dee4e69f10c263139.jpg

Need a picture of yours of the area within the Blue box. the important bit is the panel where the cable connects to.

Behind that panel are all the springs, linkages, Governor Arm etc.

If you think these are complicated, you want to see the complexity of the Service/Repair Manual images!.

Yep!, I also played with RC Cars/Aircraft about 30 years ago. Once you get this issue sorted and maintained, the machine will work for you long time. 

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