I appreciate the reply, I did see 6300 mentioned but seen some other opinions as well. I’ll use 6300 as a baseline. It starts great, 1 pull choke , 1 pull half choke and it’s running. I misspoke in initial post, jet is out 1/2 turn. I’m getting a bit of oil coming out exhaust, comes out we’re chrome manifold fits into aluminum exhaust box. It’s much better then it was with 1 1/4 turns out on jet. Is there anything I can adjust differently to help this? Or is there another issue?
Is there an approximate engine running temp that I could use as a reference?
Hi guys, I started working on a tiny tiger I purchased back in April,2020. It was used very little if any but would not run. Took carb off and followed tutorials off this site, I knew nothing about ohlsson and rice engines,1974. Played with if for a few weeks on and off in the evenings. Main issue was getting the little check valve thingy, it was stuck and I didn’t want to drill it out (as suggested)if I could help it. Finally it seemed to function properly. Then everything sat in the corner of my work bench disassembled until 2 weeks ago. Finished full carb cleaning and reassembly as shown on this site but used original gaskets and diaphragm.
I used 24-1 with 30w as per manufacturer. Used an auxiliary fuel bottle above engine as I wasn’t sure if carb would work well enough to suck fuel out of tank or work at all. Second pull it fired right up. Quite smoky. Jet was out about 1 1/8. I let it almost run out of fuel. Changed fuel mix to 32-1 using STIHL 2 stroke oil mix, backed jet off to 1/2 turn out. Started it again, runs like a top. Just a slight hint of smoke, running smooth and steady. My next question would be, what is a good No load rpm? My tiny tack shows a steady 5500 rpm, is this too high?
Thanks guys, I’ve had pretty good luck getting things shipped from US but I understand it’s to each his own. I keep digging(googling) hoping I might find a line on one, If you guys hear of one or happen to have a brain fart of where I might find one would be a great help, I’ll keep digging
I knew when I bought these tiny tigers one of the 2 was a bit suspicious as to the claim of being new. The generator case on the plug end looked wrong compared to any other, looked like somebody went to a bit of work to cover up damage. Any way as I started to dismantle it for the second time I got looking a bit closer and noticed there was split in case and repaired, appears to have been turned in a lathe or ground down as well to hide repair. Split is on very bottom.Would there be anybody that might have plug end of case for sale? It actually seems to function the way it is put I would like to properly fix it.
My wife and I watched our church service online yesterday morning at 9am I was then going to go putter with my O&R but things started to unfold really fast, we had an idea that there was some victims but not expecting what was to come . By 2:30 pm the shooter was shot and killed by RCMP and we started to here some online chatter of the extent of his 14hrs of terror. We went to bed last night knowing that by the morning we would know friends or family connected to this tragedy. I was correct, we did. Still possible not all victims found yet.
Give your loved ones an extra hug today. 😢😞
So, to eliminate issues that causes it to start but not stay running I really should replace the case seals? Or could it just be the stiff check valve ? Could valve be stiff enough that it won’t open properly good case seals or not? I didn’t try it with different fuel but primer has little to no effect to keep it running and choke position has no effect.
I have this stuff, comes premixed from STIHL , expensive but I wouldn’t mind buying it for the amount I would use them but i comes premixed at 50-1, no ethanol.
this is likely what David is talking about.
Also the advice about taking out the air filter before starting an old O&R was huge. I gingerly took mine apart, laid filter on bench it looked almost perfect, a little push on the top of it and the hole thing literally disintegrated, turned to powder.
Thanks Cnew for filter tip. Got one ordered.
Wallfish, governor vein is connected.tks
I have stated it a few more times. A couple primes, half choke and second pull it will start right up, it seems to open up to a good rpm but for only 3-4 seconds then quits. Even monkeying with choke as it starts to quit changes nothing. It seems like it just runs out of fuel. 2-3 pumps of primer and it starts up but pumping the primer will not keep it running or even get an extra bit of run time, Plug doesn’t look wet, still running the 30w 24-1mixed fuel, piston and cylinder wall look well lubed. Does seem to get quiet hot for 3-4 , 4 second runs. It runs smooth, with a bit of blue smoke. No air filter on it and no exhaust on it. Can the primer have enough suction to open brass check valve but carb not enough pull to keep it open?
I did hook volt meter up to DC terminal and it’s giving 12+ volts, didn’t check ac yet.
Hi guys!! I’m pretty excited. I got carb back together, diaphragm assembly together and carb on. Hooked up gas line to carb and little hanging bottle with mixed gas 24-1, sae30 HD as instructed on side of gas tank. First push of primer button and gas went up the tube, very surprised how far it actually moved, about 5 pushes took it up 16” of gas line. It doesn’t have the exact Spark plug in it but all I have right now. No fuel tank on it or exhaust. I gave it a couple extra primes after fuel reached carb. Put choke on, second pull it kicked!! A few more pulls, monkeying with choke a bit, kicking a bit more each time, it started!! It seemed to want to take off and rev up pretty quick so I just shut it down. Just to be safe. I wasn’t really sure where throttle was. Anyway pretty nice to see it run, it might never run again, I don’t know but I’ll get right plug, finish cleaning it all and put completely back together. Then try it again.
A couple things though.
Should I go with a different gas mix?
I have 2 stroke STIHL mix, not synthetic.
I attached 2 pics, the older O&R has a little filter in gas tank on end of fuel intake. The one I’m working on now has nothing on fuel intake. What options do I have for this one, I obviously need something, correct? In the pic you can see a hard drop of oil on bottom of tank, the tube is about 3/16” above it.
I’ll get carb assembled and try a test pump before I put it on. Does any body ever run a thin smear of gasket sealer around the outside edge of diaphragm just to make sure it’s air tight ?
Just a little follow up to the previous post. I now have the check valve opening and closing. I can blow through it but i can’t suck through it. It takes a little bit of blow pressure to open but not cheek busting. A paper clip doesn’t just fall through the valve but just a slight touch of pressure will open it. So I’m not sure if its operating well enough to use without drilling. I know it’s not to big of a deal to just put together. I’ll wait a bit to see if someone has a thought.
Thanks for the info Dave and you brought up my exact question when you first mentioned they were diodes. Why 4 spare?
hmmmmm. You mentioned battery being hooked up wrong way around , as clean and new as they appear to be I noticed a tiny mark on the side of one generator, first thought when I seen it was a electrical burn mark, as if positive lead touched case. I don’t know how much it would take to burn out a diode.
On another note, I got my check valve working. Between soaking in wd40, Zep citrus HD degreaser, drill bit , paper clip and air pressure. I finally ever so gently got it moving, then open but very stiff. Kept at It every few hours. At first As hard as I could blow I could hardly get a squeak through it. A little can of compressed air would blow through no problem and still seal in opposite direction. Now I can blow through it and can’t suck through it. Not super easy but not bad. I’m assuming they have to move super easy. It seems that the rubber could be slightly swelled (As mentioned) but it’s getting better. I’m going to stick It in boiling water for a minute or two, might shrink rubber just a touch.
Again I appreciate you help, tremendous insight and conversation.
Ok, understood. I see my previous post said “I can blow air through it” it should of said “ I CAN’T blow air through it” , I see why you guys were likely confused by my question.
After a lot of soaking and cleaning with, paper clip, drill bit, thumb tack I still can’t get air through in either direction. I will drill it out.
So just so I get this right. I removed the diaphragm, seems to be ok. I took out the diaphragm arm and it’s like the one you posted. Now for the brass fuel inlet fitting. I can blow through or suck air through it. Cleaned , soaked it the best I can with citrus type cleaner. Now it’s suggested that I drill through the inlet hole in the fitting to clean it out? Is this correct? I don’t quite understand what’s inside the brass inlet fitting and hole drilling it won’t destroy it?
The diaphragm is very flexible when you touch it, no signs of being brittle. But I think your right the only way to be confident it’s truly cleaned out is to take it off. I don’t mind getting a new diaphragm I was just trying to rush things along a bit. I got points cleaned , adjusted and got a nice spark back so was getting anxious to see if it would fire up. Got a little aux. fuel supply geared up. I want to clean polish tank before I put back on.
I attached a pic of some parts that came with them, are they even any part of these tiny tigers?
What should I do in this case? Don’t want to make it worse . Diaphragm looks in decent shape but stuck pretty good . Inlet gas line fitting is plugged, will inlet fitting come out or does diagram have to be sacrificed.
I can find lots of carb info but couldn’t find anything on the inlet fitting.
Thanks David, much appreciated, nice to have the serial number info. I’m pretty much set to go to try and rebuild them just need a contact for carb parts if you could point me in right direction.
I posted a pic with a better view of serial number on 220v unit. I watched a great video on the disassembly of a tiny tiger generator, I spent the last 2 evenings looking for it again, no way can I find it, any idea of where it may be?
thanks again for help,
I have no spark on 220v unit, so starting to take apart and check points
Very good, I’ll likely start by taking the 220v one apart on weekend. Get exhaust, fuel tank off, plug out and see what piston, cyl walls look like. If I put some oil down plug hole would it be ok to pull it over to check for spark?
It’s Running!! RPM?
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
I appreciate the reply, I did see 6300 mentioned but seen some other opinions as well. I’ll use 6300 as a baseline. It starts great, 1 pull choke , 1 pull half choke and it’s running. I misspoke in initial post, jet is out 1/2 turn. I’m getting a bit of oil coming out exhaust, comes out we’re chrome manifold fits into aluminum exhaust box. It’s much better then it was with 1 1/4 turns out on jet. Is there anything I can adjust differently to help this? Or is there another issue?
Is there an approximate engine running temp that I could use as a reference?
I appreciate your help
thanks