art faulkner

I could have bought 316ss 10 for $17.00 however I opted for the chrome, they in a very non-corrosive environment, and should last. I like the change in the diaphragm arm where a rubber tip is used, rather then the ball.. I will receive the chrome balls next week and if rusted will return, tks for the warning My tiny tiger and type 133(olive drab color) are running excellent. the type 127 is the one I am working on.

I thought it was closer to a hundred, you have to pay $10.00 for a diaphram, so $5.95 for a 3/32 ball, such is life

amazon has 100 3/32 chrome steel balls for $5.95

3/32 not 5/32

the motor type 127, there is number 2 on the internal of the housing, the tutorial with the paper assist insertion of the spring shows a number one. I notice the spring was upsidedown, comparing to the paper assist tutorial, and no ball. I think its a 5/32 ball,,change the valve diaphrams also?? if you have the parts bill and send tks art

need the ball for the carb, what size is it 3/32??

I should have added your answers were well written and easy to understand I am use to bigger engines see youtube RADIAL 1941 LYCOMING

yep your right ,tks

tkis, another comment on the governor , when I manually operated the governor flapper, the rod did not move the butterfly, slightly or at all, is this a spring tension , lubrication or other problem? this excessive rpm problem will probably never happen, but just curious how things work ,on most carburetors when you close the butterfly you add more gas this excessive rpm

tks, I used hondabond to seal my tank, very runny, virtually no inst. other then wait one minute. the hondabond site best comment , was coat each side, and when it stars to get sticky, put together .the other brands loctite 518, dirko ,threebond ,permatex motoseal 29132 very expensive for the couple of drops needed!!! I dried my tk. overnight will check in a few hours( another thought hondabond says the gasket peals off easily, with all the vibration of a running, will it shake loose?)

DO-BRO has a nice line of inline and in tank filters oops meant DU-BRO for filters

you could make an inline filter like the in tank filter, however why bother, the in tank filter might plug once a " century" and then back blow it, flush the tank and good for another "century"!!! another question is the governor vane, when I remover the cover to expose the vane, and rotate manually, to what appears to be the maximum deflection( air flow at some excessive rpm) there does not seem to be enough movement in the rod to move the governor butterfly, to open and reduce the rpm?

why not use an external inline filter(you may need to clean it, in the future) I used a 5/8" flat bottom steel rod to tap out bottom via the fuel nozzle, it came out easily with no distortion, you can do this with out removing the tank

Is the brass adjustment screw on the carb the needle valve to adjust the voltage with the 300 watt bulb? and the screw on the motor side the idle adjustment, this screw appears to control the rpm, I am confused about how ,these two adjustments interact. If ytks artou could explain the function of each

tks I took a 5/8" flat bottom rod and gently taped out bottom of tank plate,(went through fuel nozzle) it came out very easily with no distortion, there was no rust, scraped and wire brush the groove on tank and plate ,ready to bond. the fuel filter had fallen off years ago and had installed a inline fuel filter outside of tank( more logical) Do you recommend using the new 2 stroke oil or the 30wt in the fuel? Any special reason you recommend honda bond?tks for all your help, O@R not my primary interest, if your ever interested in my stuff , fwill offer a good deal