FrankZ

Factory, Thanks for your kind words! I appreciate all your posts to this topic that helped me get to this point. I'll be happy to provide some Palnuts. Perhaps send me a private message and we can go from there.

I made an aluminum base plate based on DustyB's picture provided. Thanks again DustyB! I used an old scrap speed limit sign I had and cut it out of that. Believe it or not, I was able to find locally, NOS 10-32 Palnuts. It was an all or none purchase so now I have around 80-100 of these... I was not able to find any feet that were close to original so I decided to use what I had, and since I have extra Palnuts, I used them as fasteners on the feet as well. Not correct as original, but it all matches nicely and I think it looks good...

Thanks Factory for the clarification on the fuel line port and also for the link to the tank repair. I was wondering what the inside of that tank looked like! The screen and retainer were loose in the tank when I purchased my Tiny Tiger. I assume the rubber piece is still in place but no filter screen so I will put an inline filter just before the carb.

Wallfish - Sorry not sure if you mean closer to the tank center lengthwise or widthwise... I should have labeled the picture. Can you verify "A" or "B" in the picture below, thanks!

Made some progress and have everything cleaned up and ready to reassemble. Can someone please verify the fuel line routing for me? One line goes from the port by filler cap to the other side of the tank and one line goes from the tank to the carburetor. Which of the 2 ports on the right side of the gas tank in my picture below (carb side) is to be used for the fuel line going to the carb? Thanks again for helping me get this going!

I turned a starter handle out of oak. Here are my dimensions and finished handle (except for primer/black paint): I received the parts shipment from Wallfish - thank you very much! I should now be able to finish rebuilding the carb and work on the starter issue with installation of correct dogs/pawls and reel. I have a request for proper bend/angle for the governor vane/blade. When I took the blower housing off for the first time it looked like this: That is obviously not correct. Luckily this vane is metal, probably aluminum, so I can straighten out the bent tip on the left side but I need to know where to bend it on the right side near the rivets. Is it bent on an angle or just straight from front to back, and at what angle should it sit in reference to the vertical cylinder behind it? I assume it should be around the 10 o'clock position? Once again your help is greatly appreciated, thank you.

Okay Factory was correct - I was able to remove the spool without removing that retainer for the spring. All I needed to do was to release the tension on the spring by removing the cord and letting it unwind. I then just rocked the spool back and forth while pulling upward and after a minute or two it came off. I will NOT attempt to remove that retainer clip. I'll just clean and lubricate the spring in place. Wallfish - thanks for the update on the shipment. I'll let you know when it arrives. I really appreciate all the help and correspondence on this forum. Thank you!

David, Thanks for your input. If I release the tension on spring I think you are correct about the reel/spool being able to come out without removing the spring and/or retainer. It is currently still under tension so let me give that a try.

I was afraid of that... Mine has to come out so I can replace the spool. I'm guessing this is not an easy replacement part to find...

Any advice on how to remove this retaining clip without breaking it? The newer vintage Drillgine had a retaining ring that was relatively easy to remove and install in the blower housing. This I'm not so sure about....

Thanks David for the additional information on the handle. Now that I study the dimensions I have more questions: What is the diameter of the thru-hole bore that the cord runs through? This would be the diameter at the bottom end of the handle that sits against the rubber snubber. What is the diameter of the counter bore that is approx 1-3/4" in depth that conceals the spring & cord end knot? This would be the diameter at the top ball end of the handle. My Tiny Tiger has the snubber and spring still attached on the pull cord. Just the wooden handle is missing. The diameter of the spring looks to be 1/4"

Thanks DustyB for the dimensions of the handle. I will turn one up and paint it black. Thanks Factory for the additional base plate info. Even though my base plate was missing, the original little spacers that go between the tank and base were still there. The machine screws were replaced with wood screws, but the spacers were reused. At least that is one detail I don't need to source/fabricate! I will try to locate those Palnuts here locally but that may prove to be a difficult find.

DustyB, In looking at your dimensions, Would you please get me an overall length? Thanks again!

Thank you very much DustyB!!!

After a couple weeks with no time to dedicate to these, I have an update: On the Drillgine, I had to reinstall the starter pull cord and also fix the end of the recoil spring that sticks out through the blower housing so it would stay in place. Then with the new diaphragm in the carb I was able to get her running. Chucked up a 3/8" drill bit and drilled some holes through a 2x4 to see how it ran under load. Runs nicely. On the Tiny Tiger, I had taken some carb parts and used them to get the Drillgine going and needed some other parts. Wallfish is in the process of shipping me parts he had this week. Hopefully that will get me further along to the point I can try to start it. I still need the wooden handle for the pull cord. It is the wooden longer black handle with ball end. Would anyone have dimensions they would share with me (Thanks again DustyB for the awesome base diagram!) I'll need overall length, shank length, and diameter of ball end. If someone provides this information, I'll try my hand at turning one on the wood lathe.