tvenetis

I just rubbed it on the stone with my finger tip.

I recently purchased a supply of the 1/16" and 3/32" chrome steel ball bearings used for check valves in most of the O&R carburetors. These are high quality ball bearings precision rated G25. If you need some, just drop me a PM. 

Probably work but you could make a little pin using some stiff wire or cut a small piece off a large paper clip.

Parchment paper is used for cooking/baking
Jungle site is Amazon.com

Make your own
A circle paper cutter-- search on the jungle site for one
Parchment paper is thin like those gaskets

What are you powering with it?  Sensitive computer equipment? Typical lights and motors ain't gonna care.
The governor should limit the rpms so make sure it's not hanging up or something. You can probably add a screw where the cable would go for things like a drill or mini bike engine that uses a throttle cable if you need to limit the butterfly from opening.

I just pinched them with my fingers and kinda twisted.
I guess you could make a ring compressor from some thin sheet metal and a hose clamp to tap them in sorta like big engines.

Yes it has the wider piston rings, it couldn't have anything else as they had discontinued the narrow rings and this was the replacement given in the 1975 parts price list.
 
David

The narrow piston rings are A-33-13 (also used on early 13B engines), when these became obsolete they used replacement piston & ring set 400560.
And the wider rings used on later 13B engines are 200862.
 
David

A-33-13

Yes, some of the 13B engines have some differences in the carb. The later carbs have a little rubber stopper on the diaphragm arm that replaced the little steel ball bearing. Another change was the little brass inlet nipple/valve you referenced.
 
Without seeing the issue up close I’m not sure what to suggest to fix it. If it’s just slightly loose but the actual valve is still functioning internally, could you maybe use a little bit of epoxy or JB to help seal it and snug it up where it connects to the carb body?

I just busted a crank on a seized engine.  There should be a little c-clip on one side, remove that and you should be able to tap the wrist pin from the opposite side.

All of those metal rings go on after the gaskets.
The last thing to go on is the O ring which seals the connection of the case and the head. The rest seals the manifold and the head
Yup, that check valve bearing should stop gas flow. Something is wrong

There's a whole section on manuals here in the manual section for IPLs
Ohlsson & Rice Compact Operation Instructions May 62 Parts List 9-1-62 Service Directory May 62-1.pdf
 

Yes, I’m not good at linking pages on here but if you go to the main Ohlsson Rice page there is a section title Brochures, etc that has parts list and other info.
 
I looked up that part number and it looks like it’s the Roller Retainer for the later 13B engine. Go to this page and pull up the info on the 1970s engine.
 

Install the gaskets and manifold onto the cylinder head. The rubber type gaskets are 2 different sizes. The one with the larger inside diameter hole goes on the cylinder first. Then manifold, then 2nd gasket, then metal rings, then O ring. Tightened it by hand using a rag for grip, use a tool to get it tighter if needed. Turning the manifold with the cylinder at the same time will get it close to tight

The points pin where the spring sits on is short and shouldn't be tall enough to touch the cover. The points spring needs to be in contact with the pin as that's the transfer of the connection to the pin and the condenser. Make sure that connection is clean. Clean the post and the spring. 
 
A cause of running erratic is typically the case seals. Leaking seals will affect the vacuum/pressure pulse pressure of the carb diaphragm and that's how the diaphragm moves to pump fuel. When fuel is pumped erratically it will run erratically and no adjustment to the carb is going to fix that.
 
Clean ALL the points connections
Add a few drops of DOT3 brake fluid (Not synthetic ) to each of the crankshaft seals with them still in place on the engine. Let it sit at least over night. Brake fluid swells the rubber and most times will be enough to seal the crank. There are other  little O ring seals at the points push rod and the one screw for the carb. If they are missing it will cause a big leak
Bent or damaged carb to case gaskets can do the same thing

I used chainsaw mix in mine, but I add a few extra drops of oil in the tank just to be safe. These engines of the 1960's are not built like the engines of today. A small amount of extra oil in the gas makes for a happy two stroke.

I know it seems strange, but the intake manifold, where it bolts to the engine block does have two identical gaskets. The first time I saw that, I thought it was a mistake, but having two gaskets is correct. Perhaps they needed the extra gasket to get proper alignment for the governor shaft? To remove the governor shaft you will need to remove the recoil starer cover and pull the governor vane and shaft out through that side. The governor shaft just sits loosely in a rubber grommet on the engine back plate.   

There is a black "U" shaped piece of spring steel that holds the lever in place. If you go to the website and go to the carburetor tutorial and go to the second page, you will see the diagram of the carburetor. There is also a lot of valuable information there on disassembling and reassembling the carburetor.