expeatfarmer

Is that a Beugler Pinstriping Tool ? I have looked at them and wondered if they were any good.

Unfortunately it was the previous owner that had the mag rebuilt. Good news is that it started first pull of the handle from cold today and ditto when hot.Slow running is not perfect but I have just checked timing and it is a bit advanced so will back it off and see how that goes.

I am extremely pleased and relieved to report that 137 has now had a maiden voyage up the drive, along the road and round the garden. Changing the mag to a later impulse Wico transformed it, started and ran second pull. Not without a glitch though reversed out of the garage 10 yards and it stopped , I thought here we go again, took the plug out expecting it to be fouled no it was fine, changed it anyway to a two terminal 18mm plug, set it up went to tickle the carb and it did not tickle, took the fuel cap off NO PETROL I have used a whole tank full ( 2 gallons ) just trying to get it started over the last ten days. Full tank of fuel and it started first time. I have refitted the air pipe and then the filter in stages to check for any change in running, no apparent effect so it looks as if Cinderella will go to the ball in malvern. I am annoyed with myself for persisting so long with the two original magnetos. I justify it in that I have tried so hard to restore it to as it would have been when it left the factory, I have rebuilt so many bits of scrap to as new rather than replace but there comes a point when common sense and my physical well being prevail over total originality. I will have the mags rebuilt when I can find someone who knows what they are doing. I have blisters on my right hand and muscles I never knew I had. But now it all seems worthwhile.

Refurbished mag ready to instal, turning it on the impulse fires plugs that were dead on the other two mags so fingers crossed third time lucky.

Yes it will that is todays plan I have a later MG2 Wipac Magneto to which I will fit new points and condensor and then fit it.

Not readily interchangeable to later machines. Have followed Lucas manual test procedures as far as I can.

I stripped the original rebuilt MA1 magneto cleaned the slip rings and brushes, reassembled it and tested it on the bench at low revs it produced a spark that jumped 1/2" to the vice and at high revs a brilliant white spark that crackled. refitted mag to tractor, fired once, adjusted throttle fired again, adjusted throttle and it ran for maybe 6 strokes. Would not fire again, changed the plug same again, changed plug again same again, strange thing is that once the plugs have stopped working, cleaning them does not make them work it is almost as if there is something being burned out in the plugs but I have no idea what. I will try an earth lead from mag to head but given alloy mag to alloy crankcase and cast barrel and head I can't see why continuity should be an issue but at this stage I will try anything. I had hoped not to resort to a later mag. but fearing personal injury from torn muscles and lack of time as I have other machines to get ready for Malvern I think I now have no choice but to use the later Wico mag which has an impulse starting mechanism.

Yes we did, I have just stripped the original mag cleaned up all the brush contacts tested it on the bench and the spark is jumping 1/2" and cracking so going to refit . Also compression tested the engine 60 psi on the starting handle, thought that might be a bit low so tested two others that are good runners and they have just over 50 psi so more than 10% higher. Put some oil down the bore and tested again no change so no leaks.

Hope it is not condensor as that is buried in amongst the windings on the armature which requires a full strip and re wind.

Underneath the mag label there is a brass screw which contains a carbon brush, when I took it apart this brush appeared to be fixed and so I did not disturb it, turns out this is a spring loaded earthing brush which is on the hT side of the mag if this is not in contact with the slip ring result is a poor spark under load. I will have to check this out in the morning but it means taking the mag out again !!!! ho hum !!!

I did wonder about that but there is an arrow showing correct rotation . Fitted the new N1L mag today from 225, if anything it is worse plugs spark when decompressor is engaged as soon as there is compression sparking stops> Tried smaller gap no better. Beginning to despair now.

The two mags cleaned up side by side. The one on the left is the mag from 225 which is the right model for 137, the right hand mag is the MA1 mag rebuild.

Having exhausted all other possibilities I have finally decided to remove the mag from 225 and fit it to 137 . 225 has not run for at least ten years so the mag needed to be stripped and cleaned. Having done so I noticed that in the process of just handling the mag it gave me a belt which the other never has. I hope that it has taught me a lesson in that because the 137 mag was refurbished by a specialist it would be right and the non starting issues arose from other causes. I have yet to fit it and try but the bench drill test was far more impressive than the 137 mag so fingers crossed for the morning.

Tat's the ones, held in by 4 U bolts, I scaled up the parts book to get the sizes. Still not running, have now taken off air tube,stripped carb again, tried running to watch fuel through carb, top of the float was quite dented so thought problem may be too high fuel level in float chamber, not that, tried swapping plugs, tried different gaps most I have had is four firings. Friend called in today so was able to get him to crank engine whilst I watched the start timing with a strobe,was firing at about 4degrees after TDC so reset mag to 0 degrees still wont go. I have now removed the mag from 225 which I will clean up and test.

Nice new air filter arrived today courtesy of a chap called Chris Pamplin an expert on Vokes filters, he had two made for me. I have fitted one but not run engine yet, yesterday the mixture was good at speed but rich on tickover so may risk fitting a smaller slow running jet especially as the filter will richen things up slightly. Finally fitted the second floorboard. The fan belt was annoying me and very difficult to tension so fitted a new one a bit smaller, it meant completely unbolting the engine and sliding it forwards but gave me chance to clean up the flywheel etc which were covered in grease and oil from bedding in the starter mechanism. The canopy has suffered a bit with the efforts at getting the engine started so have pulled it off to clean and repair the damage.Hope to give the engine another test run later today and then start a new project.

Managed to get one fitted before tea. I decided that the originals were probably creosoted so have blacked them up a bit.

Who's that nutter with the big silly grin?

Fitted smaller jets,engine was an absolute pig to start again, managed it by opening the throttle 1 degree on the lever each attempt until it started. Once running top end revs were perfect, ran it for about 20 minutes before I slowed it down enough to get it into gear. Ticked over at about 350 rpm, tried to slow it down a bit more and it stopped. Ran yesterday with 18 thou plug gap, ran today with 20. Once it cools down I will take the plug out and have a look at it.

Pulled the plug out of 137 this morning. Looking at it wet and very black after it's run yesterday I think my diagnosis of rich mixture may be right. Fitting the floorboards and then going to change the jets,fingers crossed it starts again.

Thanks for your support

Thanks guys it is much appreciated. Bouncing ideas off like minded people makes a huge difference when you are struggling to solve a problem.

The condenser on this mag is buried within the main armature, if it fails it is a new armature! Thanks to a lot of support I have finally tracked down the fault with 137, I removed the magneto and bench tested it with a drill and rubber hose drive, poor spark. Removed the points assembly from the Lucas mag. which is a total rotating assembly within a static cam ring. The points were clean and good but then I noticed that where the main point spring is anchored the rebuilder had added a small piece of spring that curved very close too if not touching the insulated points post. Took it out and refitted the points, the whole spring was touching the post hence why the extra bit was added refitted the extra bit turned over so the curvature was the other way and tested mag again, brilliant spark. Refitted the mag good spark but still not running continuously two bangs and then stop opened the throttle a fraction and it started, quickly connected a timing light strobe and found that on the advanced run setting on the manual lever the timing was 36 degrees advance when it should be 20 stopped the engine retarded the ignition and tried again 25 degrees advance stopped and re set again just by rotating the flywheel rather than looking what was going on with the points, started it again measured the timing in the run setting, 20 degrees RESULT. Engine runs sweet at 450 rpm any faster and it is lumpy any slower the same. Using a compressed air gun I squirted air down the inlet and the engine ran smooth and then died back, slowed the engine down and tried the same , same effect. Current diagnosis is that the jets in the carb are too big introducing a rich mixture. That is my fault because the original jets fitted to the carb were much smaller than the 100 main jet and 25 slow running jet that are normally fitted to an MG2. I thought that maybe the car originated from a 400 cc lawnmower engine so fitted standard TB engine MG2 jets. My task in the morning is to refit the original jets and see what happens. At least I am ( i think ) in a position now where there is one fuel related issue rather than a combination of fuel ignition and buggeration factor.! I have added a couple of photos showing the extra spring piece between the screw head at 6 o’clock and the spring anchor at 7 o’clock.

Some of the problem is that you can't see what's going on whilst you are cranking the engine . I have come up with a plan for a belt drive electric start which i will try tomorrow. I am sure that if it could be spun over under full compression it would go.

Another frustrating day, fitted the bumper which I am pleased with, discovered that the decompressor mechanism was effectively preventing the engine drawing fuel when the exhaust valve is forcibly held open by the decompressor all the suck and blow takes place within the exhaust. I adjusted the mechanism and tried to just use it to get rotation started and then turn the handle against full compression, I can do it and managed to produce a couple of double bangs. One of my big hairy sons came round and he had a go with the same effect although frustrating it was quite satisfying that it knackered him as much as it does me ! I keep looking at the magneto and thinking that because it is fitted with a Lucas MA 1 magneto instead of an N1 L that this may have some bearing but then it has run and ran well. I am at a point now where it will fire once every time I turn it over but just will not pick up and go. I have had the same symptoms with MG6 engines and simply swapped to a new plug and away it went. Tried the same tactic with 137 fitting brand new N9y plugs via an adaptor but no change. If anyone has any thoughts please share.

Floorboards, U bolts and front bumper ( force drying over the Aga )