bubbalove

good luck hope they both run lovely for you im washing my hands and packing up for the weekend its the mrs birthday Tuesday so we going on our boat for the weekend HAVE A GOOD WEEKEND LADS THANKYOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP THIS WEEK IM VERY GRATEFULL :bow:

well I have checked and the condenser was on the wrong side but when I put new coil on I just copied what was there already fired the engine up runs but poorly re checked the timing spot on to the static test struck her up again sweet as a nut no revs give her some revs pops bangs jumping again fine tuned the carb still the same 1 thing that I have noticed with the head off also looking at the timing marks on the fly wheel is that the "S" on the fly wheel going in a clockwise motion is before top dead centre meaning that the spark occurs just before top dead centre is that right ???? if it was to fire on tdc or just after would that not help push the cylinder back down ???

new condenser and new coil just got fly wheel of keyway fine so flywheel hasn't slipped or moved

it looks to be ok but im trying to get the flywheel off now easier said tan done though

lets start from the beginning I bought a new horse couple of weeks ago off the ebay because I wanted to have a go at a front loader ive already got 1 c161 and another one came up so I thought id buy that to put a fel on any way bought it as none running as I did with my first 1 got it home new battery on it jumped it from the battery straight to the starter turns over no probs checked voltage to coil and it was there drained fuel tank replaced fuel pipe as was perished flushed tank out with a pint of new fuel emptied it out toped up with fresh fuel got her running badly but running( pops farts flames the lot) so I changed the spark plug no better so I changed the coil no better changed the ht lead no better changed the points no better I had a carb service kit so I took the carb off was going to service it then thought I've got a new carb so I put a brand new carb all be it 1 of ebay hence the questions about cheapish parts still no better hence the original post with a little advice heads coming off to see what's actually in there not a lot seemed wrong so I thought while im this far ill take the sump off just incase there is anything obvious there wasn't while id got it in bits and I had got a new piston piston rings and conrod I thought what the hell I cant make it worse so honed the cylinder (as I would with car engine)I must admit that I never took any measurements as such but I run the new piston up and down the cylinder and checked for slap I appreciate that there is right and wrong ways of doing this and this way was wrong for all the right reasons but I just thought to see if I could get it running I couldn't make things worse at this point so checked play on bearings and gears in the block nothing that you could say that's warn out it all felt tight a little play but nothing id have an issue with so built back up new valves reground put back in no probs all seemed fine new sump gasket new breather gasket new head gasket new carb gasket air filter gasket NOT TO THE STANDARD YOU BOYS DO A REBUILD I NO BUT IT SHOULD RUN NOPE exactly the same as when I started runs but like a bag of nails pop bang flames nearly jumps of the bench right fiddle with the carb screwed both adjusting screws in till they bottom out turn back 2.5 turns on both as a starting point started it up needed choke but started runs poorly no revs just tick over fiddled a little more tick over just about smooth ish best I've had her give it a bit of throttle either cuts out fuel starved or jumps up and down like my granny's just won bingo so timings out I thought looked on line static timing test looking for a "T" and an "S" on the fly wheel nowhere anyway after using the dremel with a small wire brush took must of been 30 years of build up from the flywheel found the "S" and the "T" set the points so they just open when the S is in the line through the hole as the static test tells me to using a ohms meter ITS GOT TO WORK RIGHT NOW RIGHT NOPE EXACTLY THE SAME I did just check the points gap with the setting from the static test and there more like 28/29 thou rather than the 20 though the service manual tells you to but iv run out of ideas now im going to pull the fly wheel off to make sure that it hasn't come loose at some point and then gone as tight as a egg in a ducks ar*e but I cant see it to be fair ANY THOUGHTS GUYS I NO IVE PROB NOT DONE THINGS TO 100% STANDARDS LIKE YOU GUYS DO BUT IM CERTAIN THIS ENGINE SHOULD RUN

also where is the best place for parts can you still buy the bits from kohler genuine parts for the k341 as I see there's a lot of parts on ebay but are they cheap copy's

if someone has had this engine to bits before is it possible that the timing is out on the cam also the book says that the fly wheel should have a "T" and "S" on it for timing I cannot find either but I do find a thick groove/line next to a faint line would that be the timing mark for tdc these grooves are behind the teeth on the flywheel visible through the hole rh side of the carb at the bottom thanks tom

thanks for the advice guys I think ill be needing it struck her up this afternoon and she still runs like c**p but I've been onto a guy up the road who no's a little about these engines he's ringing me back to see if he can help thanks for all your help I really do appreciate it tom

thanks guys put my mind at ease with that well she's back together needs oil first thing in the morning and see what the out come is im a bit miffed because I've not actually found anything wrong but she's had new piston and rings (old 1 ok but thought while im in there and I've got 1 why not ) cleaned and replaced valves checked bearings in lower end not a lot of wear there either replaced sump head carb air filter gaskets new points condenser and coil just hope she goes the morrow

removed the head and to be fair its not as bad in there as I would of thought 1 question though when I turn the flywheel the exhaust valve opens then closes the inlet valve opens then closes then exhaust valve opens slightly then closes then opens fully on the next stroke it seems to do this when the tappet adjuster moves round a notch is this the norm because to me it would be letting compression go ??????/

thanks lads ill take the engine out and get it on the bench and see what I can find

I was wondering if you guys could help I bought another c161 couple of weeks ago and at the weekend had a look to see what state it was in as it was bought as spares or repairs the engine wont start by the key but when I jump it from the battery to the starter she turns over so im guessing its a switch or something easy to solve that's not my problem after changing fuel sparkplug and cleaning the carb out I can get it to run but very poorly I decided as I had a spare I changed the carb and fuel pump just to rule them out still the same don't no what made me do it but when the engine was running I decided to pull the dipstick out and im sure there was exhaust fumes coming from the dipstick I just wanted your input before stripping it to bits im thinking valves do you guys agree or am I miles off thanks lads tom

thanks for this the Mrs just peered over my shoulder and said see other people are getting there wood cut for winter I no what ill be doing at the weekend

dont no if you boys have seen it or not there is a new program on tele shed and buried sky channel 249 i dont no if it is on normal tele as we cant get a signal here its on every night at 8 they are doing up old bikes but looking at tractors rollers its worth a look

well the steel has arrived the head scratching begins

bloody brilliant

thank you very much plower power

any pics would be great thankyou you dont need 2 machines with loaders on i think you should let 1 go ha ha ha

hi guys I was sat thinking while I had a shovel in my hand while filling the trailer being pulled by my wh has anyone built / got a wheel horse with a front loader. I appreciate that they probably wont move tonnes and tonnes of stuff a day but would certainly save the back. I've had a look on red square and I see there is 1 or 2 articles on front loaders on there but I think they have had some sort of loader to start with possibly off other types of machines and is in the US. Its in my head now and if any of you guys got any do's or don'ts advice would always be the best place to start, I've got a c-161 and im thinking if im going to do a front loader I may need to expand my herd but any advise would be great if anyone has done 1 or no's of anyone that may have pics or plans it would be great to get a little knowledge before going in the deep end thanks lads tom P.S if I am going to expand my heard what would be the best W/H to try and fix it to do any of you guy have 1 for sale ????

hi lads just see these on flee bay i just thought they my be of some intrest i dont no alot about ransomes but they look like theres a bit of age to them ebay no 121733758538

bought this a few years ago with the intention to do up for my daughter when she was old enough to drive I've lost a few of the pics doing her up so this is all I've got left now. it was going to be a 10 year project but seems we was getting married I got my figure out to get her done we call her mable finished putting her together on the Thursday night mot Friday got married on the sat drove her 4 hours to Norwich on the sun for a week on the broads for our hunny moon

has any of you lads ever thought of or done a set of powered disc harrows as some of you no ive had a pond/lake put on my land my problem is now the rest of the land is very hard clay mixed with top soil and the rotorvator just wont touch it i was just wondering if anyone had ever thought of or actualy made a set of powered harrows ???

I treated myself to a 12 volt sprayer so I can keep weeds under control around the perimeter of my field (saves the legs when using a knapsack sprayer) great little sprayer bought it of that site 60 quid and a few quid on metal to make the frame to connect it to the horse. I've used the hole that my 50mm ball for towing trailers with to mount the tank and frame

I must be very lucky I had to remove mine so I could connect rotovator just took the clip off 1 side and taped the pin out the other side I think lord wheel horse was looking down on me that day

i dont no alot about these but i thought id share i picked 2 of these up for not alot of money both engines work a treat start first time and 1 of the pumps work the other needs a new diaphram to make it useable the engines are diesel great starters with starting handle