zipfelmuetze

Hi, a while ago I managed to get my Versatiller rotivator going. There was a rudimentary carb and manifold but these were not original items and nothing was connected to the governor, no springs etc. and you can imagine how difficult it is to keep it going like this. The engine is Aspera or Tecumseh. I would like to convert to the original, proper carb with all the bells and whistles - any chance someone can help me out with the correct parts? I will cover the costs and expenses of course. cheers, steph pictures above show the parts I`m looking for. S

Hi I have a new project - a Landmaster rotivator with 3 HP B&S engine. My dad saw the Versatiller in action and promtly "requested" a rotivator for his garden Being a good son, I obeyed and went out to find the Landmaster for sale not far away. Unfortunately, one fin on the flywheel broke off on its way from the bench to the shed floor. Does anyone have a usable flywheel for sale by any chance? I organised another flywheel that looks the same, but found out later that it is from a 5 HP engine - no spark on my machine. Cheers, Steph

It´s working! Some valve grinding, cleaning the fuel tank, new oil, a new cheap-ish carb and a new lever + cable did the job. A BIG "Thank You" for all your helpful comments The only miracle is the governor... the cable is a stiff wire and the lever keeps it in place. no chance the governor can push it back to reduce the engine speed. How can this be solved? At the moment I regulate the engine speed with the lever and make sure it is not too high.

Actually, I will probably ending up doing exactly what you describe. If the cupling does not come off then I will give it a good clean and new oil and that`s it. I was just thinking that I can as well do it properly while the engine is out now. I did/do motorcycle and moped engines as well and often is worth at least checking that no broken gear bits are in the sump to avoid later surprises or end up with an even more damaged engine. I never had an engine like this, so it is curiosity driven as well S

I wouldn`t usually do it, but there was water in the fuel tank and carb and the inlet valve is rather rusty. I need to take out both valves for a proper cleaning. There are also rusty bits everywhere so the engine would really benefit from a proper cleaning - hopefully good enough to leave it alone for the next couple of years. S

Is that a volunteer coming forward ? S

I see...ok, I´ll try to find something more suitable - think I can get my hands on a piece of railway track as support. It will certainly come off this way but then I can´t use it any more and it is an important part to drive the shaft. I don´t have a welder to fill the cut afterwards. S

I´ll give it a try - I have a big Record 75 vice with a small anvil - that should do. S

Thank You all for the hints. I used my best 2 pullers as well as heating it, vice, sweat, you name it...it will not come off! I call it a day now... Cheers, Steph

...some more work done today... The fuel tank was full - full of water! So I checked whether it made it´s way into the engine as well...it looks ok-ish but the valves need cleaning and some abrasive paste to grind them nicely back and flush into their seats. However, I can´t open the engine front cover because this bulky thing sits on the main shaft which looks like it needs a puller to get rid of it - is that correct? It looks rather rusty and I wouldn´t be surprised if resists coming off.

I wouldn´t be too surprised if there is only little oil left in the engine or even an oil/water mixture. Looks like it stood outside for long time and was just hastily painted at some point in the past. I will keep you all up-to-date with the progress, however, house renovation first (can of worms!) Cheers, Stephan

WOW ! That´s exactly what I was looking for PM is on it´s way! Cheers, Steph

Is that good news or bad news ?

Here we go - I even found some kind of plate with numbers on it!