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zipfelmuetze

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Posts posted by zipfelmuetze
 
 

  1. Hi,

     

    a while ago I managed to get my Versatiller rotivator going. There was a rudimentary  carb and manifold but these were not original items and nothing was connected to the governor, no springs etc. and you can imagine how difficult it is to keep it going like this. The engine is Aspera or Tecumseh. I would like to convert to the original, proper carb with all the bells and whistles :D - any chance someone can help me out with the correct parts? I will cover the costs and expenses of course.

     

    cheers,

     

    steph

    IMG_3101.JPG

    IMG_3105.JPG

    pictures above show the parts I`m looking for.

     

    S


  2. Hi

     

    I have a new project - a Landmaster rotivator with 3 HP B&S engine. My dad saw the Versatiller in action and promtly "requested" a rotivator for his garden :D Being a good son, I obeyed and went out to find the Landmaster for sale not far away. Unfortunately, one fin on the flywheel broke off :wacko: on its way from the bench to the shed floor. Does anyone have a usable flywheel for sale by any chance? I organised another flywheel that looks the same, but found out later that it is from a 5 HP engine - no spark on my machine.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Steph

    image1.JPG


  3. :)

     

    It´s working! Some valve grinding, cleaning the fuel tank, new oil, a new cheap-ish carb and a new lever + cable did the job.

     

    A BIG "Thank You" for all your helpful comments   :)   

     

    The only miracle is the governor... the cable is a stiff wire and the lever keeps it in place. no chance the governor can push it back to reduce the engine speed. How can this be solved? At the moment I regulate the engine speed with the lever and make sure it is not too high.

     

     

    post-691-0-30787500-1457040568_thumb.jpg 


  4. Just wondering about that myself.

     

    Actually, I will probably ending up doing exactly what you describe. If the cupling does not come off then I will give it a good clean and new oil and that`s it. I was just thinking that I can as well do it properly while the engine is out now. I did/do motorcycle and moped engines as well and often is worth at least checking that no broken gear bits are in the sump to avoid later surprises or end up with an even more damaged engine. I never had an engine like this, so it is curiosity driven as well :)

     

    S


  5. Is it really neccasarry to remove it? I've been doing small engines scince I was about 12 but I very rarely remove the crankcase half, so if everything else is alright I'd personally leave well alone.

     

    I wouldn`t usually do it, but there was water in the fuel tank and carb and the inlet valve is rather rusty. I need to take out both valves for a proper cleaning. There are also rusty bits everywhere so the engine would really benefit from a proper cleaning - hopefully good enough to leave it alone for the next couple of years.

     

    S


  6. Would hate to see your vice damaged. If you have a sledge hammer it might be easier to hold that on one side while smiting the other side with the heaviest ball pein that you can muster.

    As far as heating goes, it will take a lot of BTUs to have any useful effect - more than the average "domestic" blow lamp  and probably more than a normal workshop propane torch - it's oxy acetylene and red heat territory.

    Hayterettes with seized blade carrier discs were a case of remove the fuel tank, insert a sheet of steel and pile of soaking wet rags to protect the sump and bring the disc boss to red heat.

    I see...ok, I´ll try to find something more suitable - think I can get my hands on a piece of railway track as support.

     

     

    Get the angle grinder out with a thin cutting blade on it will be off in a couple of mins

     

    It will certainly come off this way but then I can´t use it any more and it is an important part to drive the shaft. I don´t have a welder to fill the cut afterwards.

     

    S


  7. ...some more work done today...

     

    The fuel tank was full - full of water! So I checked whether it made it´s way into the engine as well...it looks ok-ish but the valves need cleaning and some abrasive paste to grind them nicely back and flush into their seats. However, I can´t open the engine front cover because this bulky thing sits on the main shaft which looks like it needs a puller to get rid of it - is that correct? It looks rather rusty and I wouldn´t be surprised if resists coming off. 

     

    post-691-0-23947000-1453653016_thumb.jpg

    post-691-0-53210300-1453653038_thumb.jpg

    post-691-0-20289600-1453653061_thumb.jpg

    post-691-0-05209500-1453653090_thumb.jpg

    post-691-0-22615300-1453653106_thumb.jpg


  8. Matter of opinion, good engine if oil changes and general maintenance is kept up, but if it's not they tend to be unforgiving, I had two asperas thow conrods on Howard Rotavator because my partners never heard of checking the oil on a machine before use, the first one I let her off,after the second shes been demoted to a fork and spade

     

    I wouldn´t be too surprised if there is only little oil left in the engine or even an oil/water mixture. Looks like it stood outside for long time and was just hastily painted at some point in the past. I will keep you all up-to-date with the progress, however, house renovation first (can of worms!)

     

    Cheers,

     

    Stephan


  9. Here's the manual, not the right engine info but Anglo Traction will hopefully point you to an online download

     

    Private Message me with a name & address and I will put a copy in the post for you, scanner u/s on my printer so

    I will do you a paper copy :thumbs:

     

    WOW ! That´s exactly what I was looking for  :)  :wub:

     

    PM is on it´s way!

     

    Cheers,

     

    Steph


  10. Point of order! 

    ATCO  (The Atlas Chain Company) did not originate in Stowmarket which was the home of the Suffolk Iron Foundry, but in Birmingham !

     

    Interesting! Didn´t know that. Never stop learning...

     

    Cheers,

     

    Steph


  11. Certainly no Clinton  ;) Besides, I live in Stowmarket where Atco originally came from - strictly Flymo-free zone here!

     

    I couldn´t resist to pull the starter a couple of times - to no avail! Compression was almost non-existent so I assume some work is needed. @ pmackellow - any kind of literature is very welcome. It would certainly speed-up restoration. spring is coming for sure and I need to combine a large pile of compost with good, heavy East Anglian clay soil...

     

    Cheers,

     

    Steph


  12. Hi,

     

    my name is Stephan and I am new here. I live in Suffolk (originally from Germany) and recently I bought a Versatiller on ebay (some of you might have seen it). It is in good shape but needs some TLC before it can do it`s job in the garden. I`m about to heat up the shed and was wondering if someone could help me out with repair manuals or spare part lists before I take it apart? I was also wondering what kind of engine it is (can`t find any plates or stickers).

     

    Cheers,

     

    Stephan

    post-691-0-71769200-1453376878_thumb.jpg

 
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