Wallfish

Took a look around and have some spare tools I'd consider letting go of. I also found a bar and chain that would fit that Ford saw if you haven't found one. C/Saw Circular saw Hedge Trimmer Amp Champ generator (Completely rebuilt engine) Tiny Tiger 300 generator (Completely rebuilt engine) Snow Blower (Completely rebuilt engine and gear box) ? Aquabug Outboard ? Chicken Power bicycle engine

If you need something I'd search through and see if I have it. I have a bunch of used parts and laser cut diaphragms but it would be too much work to go through it all and make a list just for window shopping. Probably have some doubles of some tools I'd consider letting go. Circular saw, Amp Champ generator, Tiny Tiger generator.

Spares of what? Just miscellaneous Parts? Or whole O&R tools?

Not that large one pictured. The smaller discs should be attached to the diaphragms. I use a product called "Seal-All" because it stands up to gas.

Those cylinder cooling fins and the air cleaners are some of the most common missing parts so your best bet is to keep an eye out on ebay as they do pop up every once in a while. Search "Orline chainsaw" for the other parts too. Chain and throttle cable. The FORD saw is just a branded Orline saw so the parts are the same, just a different color You will also need a new carb diaphragm too. If you choose to do it, the crank seals can be somewhat rejuvenated by soaking them in place with a few drops of old school brake DOT3 brake fluid. Synthetic will not work. Carb cleaner spray can work too but not as well plus it washes off the lubrication oils so it'll start dry unless you oil them afterwards and before starting it.

Thumb and fingers.

wind the spring and keep pulling on the tail to cinch it tighter and smaller. Repeat, repeat, repeat until it's wound tight and will fit in the holder.

Hold the spring down with your thumb at the holder opening and pic out the holder with something sharp. Release the thumb pressure slowly so the spring unwinds slowly

Maybe it's ground a negative wire to the case and the positive post ??? 2 posts are 12v. Do you have a multi meter if it's not in the manual how to achieve the 6v? I breezed through it but didn't see anything. Wish @factory David was still active. He always seemed to have the answers for stuff like this.

I think you would need to remove or disconnect one of the diodes. But I'm not sure. Check in the manual I just posted the link of above Did you receive those diaphragms yet?

? I don't remember ever seeing 6v. Can you post a pic of it? Tiny Tiger Generator Operating Instructions Models 5001-1 & 5001-2.pdf

I meant a pic of all the carb parts but I can probably find one or make a disk and attach it to a diaphragm for you. That little disk would or should be attached right to the diaphragm. It gives a rigid point for the little arm to contact to pulse it and pump gas. Without it, the diaphragm wouldn't have enough movement to pump enough gas. PM your address. (The little envelope icon at the top right of any page) Here's a thread I did a while back on a TT restore if you're interested. I also just pined it so it's on the top of the list and easier to find in the future. The TT generators are the most common O&R tool sold https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1439-tiny-tiger-350-restore/ Do you have this part? Some carbs use this instead of the little disk attached to the diaphragm

Some had a small disk attached to directly to the diaphragm, some did not but had a larger disk part that covered the entire surface. Maybe post a picture of what you have. Depending where you're located, I have diaphragms. The pulse still comes from crank pressure/vacuum. But a 2 stroke uses a reed valve to control it then and it's right through the carb that pulses the diaphragm.

Yes. Anything to hold the rope as long as it gets locked on the spool

The wire needs to be bent in such a way to feed both ends of the wire through the holes from inside of the spool out. The factory pieces resemble 1/2 a paper clip and the wire is kind of soft