Wallfish

Yes, those older type coils are not a replaceable wire like the newer type coils are. You can repair it with a new wire but you're still soldering and repairing the insulation anyway. By just repairing/replacing the insulation on the old wire, it remains looking original. Plus, I don't know of any plug wire to repair it with.

That guide also explains how to repair the spring. By heating to cherry red then allowing it to cool . It can be bent back into shape without breaking it. Can you please ask question in a new tread or a different thread instead of the this carb tutorial. We need to keep it cleaner and especially so with questions that do not pertain to the carb.

Yes the carb cap hole should be there. The abbreviation NOS = New Old Stock I've repaired those cracked insulation wires. Removed the cracked insulation, coated with liquid electrical tape (a few coats), covered with shrink tube. It can be covered with different sizes of shrink tube over top of each other but it makes it kind of stiff Yes, any engine can "run away" with high RPM.

Yes, it's in very nice condition. I have 2 of those

What you have is one of the early engines. Wood tone handle instead of black, early coil, the blower housing screws are from the back instead of the heads on the front, no primer carb, jet screw on the side instead of the top, etc etc. All of those are normal things for an early type engine. There should be a hole in the bump on the top of the blower housing which holds a metal tab to ground the spark plug off to stop it. I'm not sure what you mean by it having a "single point". The points are under the flywheel and under that little cover that will be exposed after the flywheel is off. There are 2 point contacts that touch one another and probably need to be cleaned because they oxidize over time and that will prevent continuity because they aren't actually touching together. You can mix modern 2 stroke oil at 32:1 If the diaphragm in the carb is stiff it will need to be replaced in order for it to pump fuel.

I'm think'n I can repop one these bikes too just like the Micro bike was. Measurements would certainly be helpful but the Micro was done just by studying pictures.

I have not been able to locate one. @CNew is near you in AZ. Do you have one Clint? Is that all you have is a carb? Is it not on an engine? Or the engine used for a tool? That's what CNEW was asking is what engine or tool you have the carb for.

New member @Sinclair is from Australia. You can try contacting him through Private Message. Click on the little envelope icon on the top right corner. The small water pump is missing.

Where are you located? We had resorted to making them from thin spring steel. Not sure if I have any more made but I can probably find one.

If you have the spring but the end is broken, it can be repaired. Do you still have the spring? The pull rope looks brand new so someone was in there Anything beside engine parts is usually difficult to find and come by. Finding partial engines and tools is best. I had to make a base for mine. Not very difficult if you have some basic tools like a way to cut and grind metal. Search around the O&R section as there have been plenty of threads on the TT generators. Here's the recoil repair thread that goes over the spring repair if it's broken. Click on the picture This is just a different style generator head but basically the same thing. Scroll down and you can see the base that was made.

Pete the neighbor said he will bring some handles over tomorrow

I know he has spun a few out but haven't asked any further details. I'll find out this week what he wants and how many he's done so far.

Well, got one done anyway. Took much longer to do than anticipated. I cut some of that blue spring steel I ordered for making the carb springs. The first stuff I ordered was too thick for the carb springs and it finally found a purpose. Sliced a long thin piece off then heated and bent the edge of it into a circle to fit in the dogleg hole. Drilled out the old stuff. Put the new spring in place then dropped solder in. The bubble of solder was big so I also hammered it so it would stay very tight. Filed off the remainder and cut the spring to length. Seems to work well. UGH, only 7 more to go! I like that gun bluing stuff so I'll probably clean them all up and coat them with that too.

Thanks! Cut close with the portable band saw held in a vice then used the bench grinder a little bit. Finish with a hand file to smooth and tweak the rounds. Didn't realize I was out of fine paper for the disk sander or it would've been much easier.

Got the bases done for both TTs. The 400 had a steel base so I just used that gun blue stuff to cover it. Made the 300 base out of aluminum sheet that I have. It's from a TD bank ATM cover so it's painted green and that paint is tough to get off so it's just going to stay for now and maybe get painted with some silver hammer tone when it gets warmer out. And here's the White Heat engine. Probably swap that Octura valve into a water cooled head engine. I have converted glow plug engines bot air and water cooled but not sure what exactly was used for the boats.

Are you having trouble running an O&R ? If so, best to start a new thread of your own and let us know the background of the engine and if it's on a tool like a TT

Thanks That's kinda what I figured so one the earlier rebuilt engines is being used for the TT 400. That Octura valve engine will go with the White Heat engine set up I have. Unfortunately I don't have the boat hull (YET) but have all of the mechanical stuff like the exhaust and out drive.

Thought I remembered @factory posted a bulletin that these are simply to be replaced and not serviced. But maybe it's only a suggestion as I found some of those small retainer clips and a thrust washer for them in the NOS parts. That's an indication they are to be serviced.

Have 2 sets of NOS hens teeth Plus there's a couple / few in the hardware pile that have springs missing. I'm thinking solder on new pieces for springs on those. Maybe cut some thin strips of copper sheet metal for the springs. Did you make air baffles before? Thinking about giving that a shot too but it's going to be difficult to get them to look original or somewhat close. Wondering if I can make some kind of a mold out of pipe and steel to press them with a hydraulic jack or hammer it hard together. IDK. Another crazy experiment that sucks up time but the challenge of it is most of the fun.

He said he could make them. We'll have to pay him something but he never said how much. I'm thinking $10 each is fair. ??? What do you guys think? Maybe depends on how many he does. Terry= 8 Me= 5 Clint= ? @CNew Then I'll probably round it up too so there are some extras available

Well here's another one rebuilt. Used the so called "unserviceable" shaft that was serviced in the other thread about changing the shaft. And the muffler from the muffler bluing thread. Recoils and housings will need to wait as I have 2 or 3 that need paint and new decals. Maybe in the spring.

So the muffler came out nice. Definitely looks better than paint and super glad I tried it. Not as blue of a tint as the originals but still. This would've been a wasted muffler before because how bad it was. Now I wouldn't hesitate to put in on an NOS engine. Just as easy to do as paint without the over spray, smell and drying time. So it's actually easier IMO. I'm going to try heating it up too as it would get when the engine is running, just as an experiment because it's fine for a display but maybe not for an actual runner.

Just to confirm, they are serviceable. Changed shafts, new seal and used the better cleaner parts of each to make one good one with the shaft end I wanted.

Frustrating to remove that small retaining ring which holds the thrust washer and races but it is possible. There's a tapered shaft with the 2 slots that I would like to use for an engine but one of the washer races was in 3 pieces after opening it up. I have plenty of old chainsaw type shaft engines so thought I would just give it a try to remove those thrust washers. Frustrating to get it off but they do separate. Now the seal can be serviced too. It's the same seal as used for the flywheel side.

Pete the neighbor knocked one out and it looks really good. Although it does look better, I told him they don't need those decorative rings. (unless you guys want any like that)