Koehler carb help please

[Stormin 4,458]

  Nearly there.  Before you reassemble check with a straight edge just to make sure it is nice and flat.

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

8 hours ago, Westie1 said:

1-I'm going to get the rest cleaned up and find the sequence in the manual I downloaded.

2-Would you reuse the head bolts and if not can I use any that match the original dimensions?

3-How should I clean up the cylinder(that's on the engine and on the tractor)? I could use glass with wet and dry but the slurry would do the cylinder ECT no good.

1- Details are on page133/134. Wouldn't bother printing the whole Manual, just the bits you need for now, unless you really need some boring bedtime reading! .

 

2- Providing the bolts are cleaned up ok (heads and threads), you can reuse them.  They are grade 8 (hardened/tempered) should have 6 radiating lines on the heads.

If you have removed, pushed them through a piece of card with their position noted, you can swap the bolts from the hot side of the engine to the cool side & V Versa.

If you haven't, be careful to check the lengths of them, as I believe one should be 1/4" longer to fit the engine lift eye position which, if I recall correctly should be in number 1 bolt position on the sequence diagram?.  

 

3- Plug the bolt holes below the surface level with oiled rag as mentioned before. Oiled rag over the lowered piston to catch dust, dirt etc.

Cylinder is cast iron, so you can have at it with a softish rotary wire brush to speed up the process. Watch for broken off wire strands in the bore area.

When you're done, you can vacuum or blast the top clean with air. Unscrew the rags from the holes with long nosed pliers or tweezers.

Uncover the piston and do that, then you're done, unless you plan to do the valves as well?.

 

 

  

[Westie1 29]

Ah thanks I didn't think about it being cast, that makes life easier at least.

 

I had kept the bolts in order then in a rush I mixed them up, thanks for the tip on the length and manual page saved me making a massive mistake there.

 

I have had a straight edge on it and it slopes off where it was blowing to the inside edge. To get it totally level i would need to remove a lot of metal. Ill try and get a picture.

[Stormin 4,458]

2 hours ago, Westie1 said:

I have had a straight edge on it and it slopes off where it was blowing to the inside edge. 

 

  If you put a cigarette paper under the straight edge and can't pull it out, that shows is flat enough. A cigarette  paper is one thousand of an inch thick.

  If it pulls out easy, try two papers and so on. Give some idea of out of flat.

[Westie1 29]

It's this very edge that's sloping, hard to get a picture of. 

The rest of the head other than the edge where it was blowing is perfect.

I'm going to see if I can improve it a bit tomorrow.

[Stormin 4,458]

 I wouldn't worry about that.

[Westie1 29]

Great news thanks

[Stormin 4,458]

You may get a second opinion.

[Westie1 29]

Oh I'm sure I will, put it this way if this blows again I'm buying a NOS one lol

[Westie1 29]

Cleaned up and some tie rods made, I went for m10 so had to drill out slightly on the steering rack end.

Edited October 30, 2018 by Westie1

[Westie1 29]

 

 

How sure are we that the long bolt is position 1 chaps, I can't find conformation anywhere and it's not mentioned in the manual.

 

Thanks 

[Stormin 4,458]

 Check the depths of the holes with a screw driver, pen or similar. The deepest hole will be for the longest bolt usually.

[Westie1 29]

Thanks I'll give that a go tomorrow, really hope this goes well.