Ohlsson & Rice: Drillgine Gearbox Oil or Grease

[CNew 404]

David,

   This is great information, you never cease to amaze me the amount of info you have on these engines!  I’ll take a closer look at everything on the engine and double check that things are set up correctly with the Governor.

 

Clint

[factory 487]

There are some close-up pictures of the governor vane & where it fits into the carb here;

Need to add some pictures of damage that can occur to the governor vane, the later ones with the aluminium shaft seem to wear thin in couple of places (with a lot of use).

 

David

[CNew 404]

On 3/10/2019 at 9:00 AM, factory said:

The Bridges drill gearbox uses oil, with top-ups every ten hours of use, I imagine the Drillgine will too.

 

David

 

Making some good progress on the Drillgine. Finally got the gearbox completely apart and everything cleaned (that was a chore and I’m a bit OCD when it comes to cleaning). I’ll be making some new gaskets as I put it back together.

 

Back to the oil question- should I used a high viscosity gear oil like 90 or a standard 30 motor oil.  I’m also using some Lubriplate along the way as I reassemble the gearboxes.  Since there is an oil fill hole on each side of the drill is there a recommended procedure for adding the oil? Do you tilt the drill on its side and open the top plug and the bottom plug and add oil into the top plug hole until it runs out the bottom hole? I’m guessing the gearbox doesn’t need to be totally full of oil but I really have no idea. 

[factory 487]

I can't help with the exact amount of oil for the Drillgine, but the Bridges used one tablespoon of oil (SAE 30 or SAE 10 below 40°F) and one teaspoon added every 10 hours of use.

 

But I'm beginning to think they may have changed to grease at some point, as looking at the pictures of the gearbox on my Drillgine I can't see the two Oil fill screws that are present on earlier ones (and looking through my saved pictures all the later ones are the same as mine). Have you got any pictures of yours now it's apart?

 

Also looking through the master service manual I'm struggling to find anything that says to use oil, the two service procedures for the chainsaws use grease for the gearboxes (Lubri-Plate and Union Oil Co Unoba F-1 grease are the two types mentioned).

Can't help thinking I must be missing a service bulletin about this.

 

David

[CNew 404]

David,

    Thank you for researching through all your info. The Bridges reference is great to know, that’s much less oil than it would take to fill the gearbox chambers so that helps me think the amount needed is just enough to keep things generally lubed. When I cleaned everything this afternoon the only trace of remaining oil had all dried up and if I had to guess may have been about a teaspoon worth all said and done for what I probably scraped out.  My drill is like the one in your second photo with the two fill holes.

[Wallfish 698]

I fill mine with the Lubriplate grease. It stays thick enough not to leak out any questionable seals but thin enough not to restrict movement of the gears with friction. My thought being that the drill isn't being used daily or even hard so for display, there's not much risk and there is still enough lubricant to run and operate it once in a while.

 

 

[CNew 404]

Thanks John,

  I am leaning that direction as well. I will mainly be displaying this and running it occasionally.

 

Clint

[factory 487]

11 hours ago, factory said:

Also looking through the master service manual I'm struggling to find anything that says to use oil, the two service procedures for the chainsaws use grease for the gearboxes (Lubri-Plate and Union Oil Co Unoba F-1 grease are the two types mentioned).

Can't help thinking I must be missing a service bulletin about this.

 

I'm now pretty sure O&R changed to using grease at some point in the late 60's, maybe they knew the seals were a problem then.

All but one of the revised (1968/9) parts diagrams in the master service manual have had the gearbox oil filler screw (part #26-36) deleted from the parts list & the # label removed from the diagram (if present). And the one that hasn't is Type 199 with a direct drive clutch only, no gears.

 

So I'm also going to recommend using grease from now on too.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Thanks David!

I think I’ll go with the Lubriplate on this drill and see how it goes.

 

Clint

[factory 487]

And from the Model 20A maintenance manual, it also states "oil is not to be used" in reduction gearboxes.

 

 

David

[CNew 404]

David,

   Good to know, looks like some consistency toward no oil. 

 

Clint

[Webhead 95]

I have done all of mine with lubriplate. Johnboy ^^^ explains it to a tee, and David ^^^ puts a lid on it.

[CNew 404]

I’m in, Lubriplate it is!  Thanks again for all the help and sharing of expertise!

[Wallfish 698]

Think the Lubriplate will still work even if you did run it hard.

I use it in the front worm gear gearbox on my tractor's 2 stage snow blower instead of gear oil. There's also a product called Corn Head grease which is made for John Deere for using in gearboxes for leaking seals.

[CNew 404]

Thanks John!  I’ve always been a fan of Lubriplate, been using it since I can remember helping my dad work on cars as a kid.  I also really like Kano Kroil, stuff works wonders.  I’ll have to check out the Corn Head grease, hadn’t heard of that one.

[factory 487]

12 hours ago, Wallfish said:

There's also a product called Corn Head grease which is made for John Deere for using in gearboxes for leaking seals. 

 

There is a John Deere dealer about 2 miles away from me, will have to get some of that grease.

 

David