CNew 404 #1 Posted July 23, 2020 Next up is my Type 110. The internals on some of these earlier models are so different from the later engines. 1 Wallfish reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #2 Posted July 23, 2020 Looks like a Comet tools engine, but it's not in the manual pictures I have saved from ePay. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #3 Posted July 23, 2020 That’s what I thought too, looks like the ones for the Comet tools. I didn’t get this one off ePay... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #4 Posted July 24, 2020 The cooling baffle indicates it's probably from a circular saw. I don't remember ever seeing those on other tools. 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #5 Posted July 24, 2020 It also has the two notches cut into the mounting holes like on the circular saw. The carb also doesn’t have a hole for the hook screw for an air filter so that also seems like a circular saw set up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #6 Posted July 24, 2020 The grainy low resolution picture from a manual I have (not mine) gives; Type 96 for the circular saw, Type 113 for the chainsaw, Type 100 for the drill and Type 109 for the pump. Earlier ones may use a letter type instead (my pump uses a Model B for example). It probably is from a the circular saw, a later one without the extra long tube for the muffler and the added switch to compensate for the not having the remote handle mounted one. I just don't have any pictures showing the Type as it's usually inaccessible to take a picture. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #7 Posted July 24, 2020 You've just rebuilt a later Comet C/Saw, did you not note the engine Type (I can't see it clearly in any of your pictures)? I found this engine in my archived Comet pictures; with the correct stop switch, notches in the mounting flanges & no hole in the carb for the air cleaner screw, it's also a Type 110. David 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #8 Posted July 24, 2020 Well, that’s always frustrating. Got this engine completely rebuilt and put back together only to have zero spark. I tried another condenser for giggles and that didn’t help. Tried a new spark plug and that didn’t work. It must be either the coil or the points. I got the points all cleaned up nice and set properly. The coil didn’t look in bad shape from the outside. Any ideas? If I use a volt meter on the coil can I pinpoint something from there? Electrical isn’t my strong suit but I put my meter on it and here are some of the numbers: 2.67 k Ohms 0.07 Ohm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #9 Posted July 24, 2020 Try that same test on a known good coil and compare the results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #10 Posted July 24, 2020 I just finished swapping out the points. That seemed to do the trick. I think the points that were in there weren’t really making a connection, they seemed to be worn at odd angles or someone sanded them poorly. Just ran a carb worth of gas, sounded great. I may rig up a small tank tomorrow so I can try to run it a little longer. 3 Wallfish, Daren89 and Fishnuts2 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #11 Posted July 26, 2020 On 7/24/2020 at 10:21 PM, CNew said: Electrical isn’t my strong suit but I put my meter on it and here are some of the numbers: 2.67 k Ohms 0.07 Ohm Those readings are fine for an earlier style coil, somewhere between 2kΩ to 3kΩ for the secondary (HT) coil winding is what I would expect (or 6kΩ to 7kΩ for the later coils). David 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
