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Graham clay

Newby needing help

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I have a garden master 85 and it refuses to spark at the plug, set the points and still no sign of a spark, I guess I will have to buy new points and coil etc, does anyone know where I could purchase these please. Numbers on the machine are HL30-M166/07 & 286979 

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Pitting or pips on the points faces indicate either over, or under capacitance. Depends which side of the circuit they are.

Check for any possible short to earth/ground point in the circuit. Is your Spark plug good?. Check for spark with the lead wire end.

 

Suggest you obtain a copy of a parts list for your specific Techy engine version.

Once you have the correct part numbers for the Coil, Points and Condenser, you can search places like this.  -LINK-  .

 

Maybe check the Tecumseh Manual listed in the 'Downloads' tab on the header line on Home page here for a start. if no good, search online for your engine version.

Provided the Magnets in the flywheel can attract a large screwdriver flat end from about 19mm away, it should be ok to produce a good spark.

Replace the points and condenser with new ones together.

 

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I have cleaned the points and the is a pit mark in the centre that I can’t get out without taking lots off the contact. Thank you very much, I will try these things. You have been a great help 

Thanks for your reply, you have been a great help, I will try all the things you have suggested 

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Before you spend on parts.  Looking at your first image it’s possible that the terminal ends of the coil primary wire  and the wire from the condenser/ capacitor , are very near to the casing and could be shorting out on the wall of the magneto casing. If they are, it’s a cheap fix.  Also, make sure that the spring steel strip from the moving point is not eating out any where and is held square against the plastic insulator. 
The coil is available as are the points. The exact condenser that fits on the side of the mag  may be tricky to find but a generic one can be hooked up outside the mag. Both the coil and condenser may be tested , as can the whole stator assembly.  If you are not concerned about originality, and so long as the coil is good , you can ditch the points and condenser and fit an after market transistorised trigger unit; for about the same money as new points and condenser and does away with points wear and routine adjustment. 
Just noticed the wire going away from the mag, presumably to a a throttle operated kill switch on the carburettor/ governor plate,  a prime candidate for an unwanted short to Earth.

Edited by Wristpin
Additional info.

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Thanks for your reply, you have been a great help, I will try all the things you have suggested I haven’t had time to look into it further, but I will soon. Should you be able to see a spark at the points when you turn the engine over slowly ? Also I think the 2 wires from the coil are fastened to the engine block 

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Also I think the 2 wires from the coil are fastened to the engine block 
 

Not sure about that. The coil will have a wire connected to the insulated block retaining the points spring and sharing it with the wire from the condenser and the kill switch  - the coil primary, not connected or touching the engine block. Any other wire is the earthed or grounded end of the coil primary or secondary winding  - often to one of the bolts holding the coil armature to the block. The wire that is visible, in your first image, running from the coil to the insulated block , is the coil primary and must only be connected to the points , condenser and kill wire via the common connection on the insulating block.

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I have cleaned everything once again, made sure nothing is shorting out and treated it to a new plug. I now get a spark when earthing the plug, but only on every third or fourth pull. The plug does seem quite lose in the cap, so I thing my next job is to get a new plug cap and try again, unless someone else has any suggestions 

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That must be considered to be progress, but I hope that it’s as simple as that, but ……………. !

 

 

 

Edited by Wristpin
Typo

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