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  1. 8 points
    Hello all I am new to the group,i have bought my father in law a ride on mower as he is staring to struggle doing his big garden by hand.I am not made of money so had to get a fixer up and come across a westwood gazelle w11. It was in a sorry state but I have spent the last 4 weeks taking back to bare metal and powdercoating every part , replacing every nut and bolt. My question is I have spent all this time doing the restoration I didn't think to ask the question are these any good at cutting grass?
  2. 8 points
    Alan

    HALF a HORSE.

    The axle bearings from the Bolens were used plus the front axle mounting bracket which was hack sawed from the frame, cut in two, excess removed, slotted and drilled to take the bearings. The extra holes were for possible height adjustment at a later date. Easier to do now than later. These were pop riveted to the box section ready for welding later. The front axle was then given a lot of thought. The full size is a cast, tapered in two directions, webbed unit. Something simpler was needed. A piece of thick walled 1" square was used with tube king pin mounts. A test piece was cut to gauge the angle required, followed by marking, cutting, bending, filing and drilling the main components. Small infill pieces were inserted to give the weld something to bite on. The axle mount was made up of 3/16" plate fastened to chassis box section cross members, with 1/2" bore bushes. The pivot is an old Austin 7 king pin. All a bit on the beefy side but just materials to hand. I should say that ALMOST all the materials used in the entire build were saved during the clear out at John's. Also, as I do not have proper machining facility's, most of the work was done by hand. Hand drill, hack saw, jig saw, files etc. I do have a small Unimat 3 model makers lathe which was used for some of the lighter machining jobs. Also an old Drummond round bed which is in need of work and a chuck adapter. Guess where this came from. I also adapted an old Picador drill press to take a larger hand drill. This wasn't too satisfactory, side play and too fast for the larger drill bits. These were more suitable for wood, not metal. Photo's later. The next few photo's show the chassis and axle mounted on a board ready for welding. The rear axle mounting plates drop into slots in the board. The two dark coloured angles are temporary and just to help keep things square.
  3. 8 points
    Stormin

    Wheel Horse Sickle Bar.

    All finished and ready to test. Took that in the morning and was going to see what it was like this afternoon after I'd done an oil change. Unfortunately I got a call from the farm and had to go and drive a big tractor.
  4. 7 points
    the showman

    Through the showmans lens at Wiston

    Just spent a lovely weekend at Wiston steam rally, here's a few photos of stuff I liked and some general view shots so you can see the size of the show Here's a few more and into Saturday night at the beer tent.
  5. 6 points
    HeadExam

    Homelite Chain saw collection

    I bought all four of these separately on a lark after flogging my Husqvarna 435 for the last time, what a piece of Chinese junk, no guts at all. I found the 1969 blue 58.2cc Super XL Automatic 3 hours away for 100.00, but I was going up that way anyways. The 1981 40.9cc Super EZ Automatic was in a town on the way up to moms house and was 25.00. The 1970 37.6cc EZ Automatic was an eBay find for 99.00 free shipping, and the 1967 77cc XL-901 I bought from the original owner for 225.00 shipped to my door. I got 150.00 for the Husqvarna 435 so I have 325.00 in these four. After using them I can't imagine buying a "new" chainsaw.
  6. 6 points
  7. 6 points
    Stormin

    A horse and a Billy goat.

    Last year on my annual trip down south, one of the things I returned with was this Billy Goat. There is a thread on it in Pedestrian machines. As you can see I'd been having a bit of a play with it. Today I dug it out of it's hiding place had more of a play with it. First I amputated it's back legs wheels. I then found these two pieces of scrap, plus the jaw plates removed from my Saxon trailer. They became this towing attachment for the front of the Billy Goat. Next job was a rear towing attachment. A length of 1"x1". Another of 1"x2". A couple of U bolts. Tow ball plus a spare spacer and I had this. At end of play this is how things look. There's still more to do and one or two alterations but so far so good. All made from scrap lying around, so zero cost. No Billy Goats were harmed and if needs be can be put back as was. To be continued.........
  8. 6 points
    Stormin

    Wheel Horse Sickle Bar.

    Finally got around to trying out the sickle bar this afternoon. I'm really pleased with it to be honest. Took it down the overgrown bridleway past my home. Long, heavy, thick damp grass. Did two passes. One down, then one back up. Result below.
  9. 6 points
    the showman

    Smallholders show 2017

    Heres a few photos of the show Saturday, I'll try and get more tomorrow
  10. 6 points
    the showman

    Smallholders show 2017

    No photos today but much the same as yesterday, two arena displays each day with good support even all the kids got involved pushing garden machinery around. In all a very enjoyable weekend with some fun along the way
  11. 6 points
    the showman

    Smallholders show 2017

    Phil done a good spread for exhibitors that attended and done the cooking. everybody happy
  12. 5 points
    the showman

    Last one to leave

    This sorry looking little Westwood has been hiding in the barn at johns for the last few months with only the attention of the horse whisperer who lovenly removed his flywheel and cleaned his points, with the help of a jump pack was able to run again. He filled in a transplant form and now he's off to the deep south to be recycled into a Wheelhorse .
  13. 5 points
    Alan

    HALF a HORSE.

    As the front axles were 3/8" and the Bolens wheel bores 3/4", bushes to fit both were required. A hunt through my bits and pieces for something suitable drew a blank and nothing found on the internet. I could probably have made these up on my Unimat lathe but no suitable material to hand at the time. I came up with a different idea using parts lying around. New axles were made using 10mm coach bolts and nuts, stainless tube and 10mm bolts. The tube was threaded10mm internally each end, it was luckily close enough to the correct tapping size. One end was screwed onto the cut down coach bolt after fitting it to the angle iron hub, the wheel retaining bolt fitted in the outer end. Suitable bronze bushes with the correct ID and OD from the spares box finished the job. These look a bit over the top but didn't take long to make. Took longer looking for the bits. The king pin was left at 3/8". Weld between the two inner ends made the unit extra rigid.
  14. 5 points
    I'm getting ready to refurbish two Allis 416 decks, fortunately the 42" deck is nearly perfect except for paint and the 48" just needs a couple of "soft" spots in the leading edge welded up. In the last year I have done a Wheel Horse D-160 deck, an Allis 716H deck, a Bolens 1256 deck, and just recently the Bolens 1476 deck. I also spruced up this little wheel barrow dump cart that I bought for 25.00. After the decks I will start on Case and Ariens dump carts and other implements.
  15. 5 points
    Had great day out was at almond valley vintage association. Some photos of the horticulture display. The two Little boys went home with prizes
  16. 5 points
    Anglo Traction

    Mower Deck refurbishment

    It looks ok now Norm, bit of a state when I started the long job, but should be good for a few seasons if cleaned properly and carefully. Been sorting the Anti scalp Roller. I Machined up 2 flanged Bushes to fit the bearings and the fabricated Pin. I used Cast Iron and as many will know, it produces a lot of fine particles of black dust. So having mentioned this in a PM to Alan, here is a pic of the result that a few carefully placed Magnets wrapped in a plastic bag can do to confine it- It catches most of it and allows a quick clean up after. Finished Bushes and a sliding fit on the 1/2" dia pin- As I'm pinching the flanged Bushes against the Roller bearings between the 2 mower brackets I needed to thread the end of the Pin 3/8" x 18 UNC for a nylock Nut. Rest of the parts and the old Pin - Trial fit and all good..... back to cleaning and painting. Regards
  17. 5 points
    Cub Cadet

    Wheel Horse RJ-58 Restoration

    First i started to strip the tractor down, there were many modifications which needed to be rectified. There were some splined hubs which had been made to fit, they were first to go and they revealed the state of the axles, very rusty and holes drilled in them. Next I cut off the front axle which has been welded on. Next we welded the chassis back how its meant to be and welded up the extra holes. the hood stand required some straightening, some ingenuity was needed.
  18. 5 points
    pmackellow

    Wiston Steam Rally

    And some more including my vehicle of the show, a really nicely restored Ford Transit Mark 1 drop side pickup...
  19. 5 points
    Anglo Traction

    Mower Deck refurbishment

    My turn to say for delays to Thread updates. I have excuses. I had to slow this job down so I could do small short sessions when the opportunity arose. The plan to have the Deck Shell Media Blasted was cancelled, and so I set to cleaning it back myself. It has taken several months to get the rust off and treat ready for welding the Baffle metal in place. Checking the fit and positioning- The old Baffles had slots cut out to fit the Nuts for the forward Bracket Bolts. I wanted to avoid any slots that would let the Baffles fill with grass, dirt and stones again. So I have made 1 Mushroom Head bolt Captive each side under the curved Plate. The other 2 have clearance (just). The condition of the shell (underside) when most of the rust was removed is very good considering, but a lot of work to clean it all off so that the Rust converter I used converted it all.The top surfaces are fine. Combination of Etch, Weld Through and Oxide Primer being used initially- Also noted that the old Baffle welds had cracked on the apex of the curves, so I incorporated 2 steel tube posts to add strength and to serve as a conduit for injecting Waxoyl into them- I drilled the shell 1/4" dia to allow a long bolt to hold the tube(s) in place while I tacked them. I can then Tap the holes 5/16" UNC for screw plugs. The slots cut into the tube's bottom end will allow the stuff to flow in. So some more tack welding to fit the bottom plates to do (I'm not good at welding yet) and finish prep underside soon .
  20. 4 points
    Jarrovian

    my new toy

    help information is required on my new purchase PERFECT seed drill made in Bristol
  21. 4 points
    Alan

    HALF a HORSE.

    The original sprocket and part of the tubular shaft, both too large in diameter, were cut from the clutch housing. This was extended with a correct length and diameter replacement which was a VERY tight push in fit. For push in I should say helped with a hammer. This was drilled for a roll pin as was the replacement sprocket. Although the other end looked like it would never move this was also drilled and pinned while I was at it. The gearbox sprocket was not in line with it's big brother on the axle. It needed to be moved inwards about 1/4". A slice was carefully cut off with a thin cutting disc in my Dremel, held as steady as possible as these discs break almost by looking at them. I got almost all the way through before the disc mounting shaft bottomed out. The last bit was done from the opposite side. No photo's of this operation but before and after shots with the sprocket back on the gearbox. The section cut off, first photo, now moved to the outside.
  22. 4 points
    the showman

    Last one to leave

    Had a couple of hours in the red shed today, removing all the wiring and electrical components, engine and transmission. took the rear wheels off the transmission, one side slid straight off once I removed the retaining clip which i was most surprised the other side needed a little bit of help.
  23. 4 points
    Alan

    HALF a HORSE.

    Can't remember exactly when, but part way through the early stages of the build it was thought a good idea to see if the engine would run. It had only been roughly assembled up to now so carb cleaned, new fuel pipe fitted, bolts tightened and so on. The recoil starter was a problem. I had 3 of these, 1 complete and 2 in pieces. The complete unit was fitted but locked up when the cord was pulled. I had this apart 4 times before finding the problem. A missing spacer washer. Wasn't sure if this washer should have been there but it did the trick. One of the other units had one, the other didn't. After the 4th assembly I was getting the hang of fitting the recoil spring. Clamped to the bench, petrol in the tank, starter pulled, and pulled and pulled, nothing. No spark. Cover off, points cleaned, they were furred up, and away it went. There was a knock which appeared to be from crankshaft end float. A PM to Richard ( Anglo Traction ) who suggested that the knock might disappear when the engine was under load. This proved to be the case. Thanks Richard. A few bench test runs followed and the engine appeared good to go.
  24. 4 points
    HeadExam

    Bolens 18049-02 Mower Deck refurbisment

    I had a bugger of a time reinstalling the two idler pulleys and they didn't want to fit under the belt covers. The new pulleys already had one spacer built in and it made it difficult to place all the spacer correctly and fit.
  25. 4 points
    Alan

    HALF a HORSE.

    The Bolens axle was cut down and drilled. The shorter end didn't need altering. The length was just right and the original wheel retaining bolt hole was also used for the model. The other end was a pain in the ++++ though. Tough to hack saw through, although it could have been worse, but the 5/16" hole was a ( censored word ) to drill. Finally got through with an assortment of drill bits, cutting compound and my lashed up drill press using various speeds and lots of naughty words. Luckily I only had to drill this one side. Now, what to use for the front axle bushes. A long time was spent looking through my piles of bits and weighing up all the options. Some bits had the correct OD but too large on the ID and so on. Still wanting to use what I had to hand, a piece of engineering plastic was used. Not sure, but I think this is Delrin or Acetal or similar. A short piece was tapped into copper tube to hold it rigid while drilling in my Unimat lathe. I was surprised to see blue swarf as the material is black. After drilling up to 1/4", the bore was opened up on the drill press. Can't remember the drill size but slightly under the OD of glacier bushes which were tapped in afterwards. These had an ID of 3/8" which was the bolt size I used for the king pins. If these bushes were later found to be unsuitable they could easily be changed. So far, with a few test drives that the Showman and I have had over rough ground, no problems have been found.
  26. 4 points
    pmackellow

    Wiston Steam Rally

    A very good show in deepest West Sussex visited today. Horticultural machines were with the stationary engines (separate section next year ?). Here's some photos... And some more including some bloke in a red t shirt who looks vaguely familiar...
  27. 4 points
    Stormin

    A horse and a Billy goat.

    Rigged up a temporary hitch today and had a trial run. Turned the tool bar upside down to lower the ball height And packed up the coupling. When at lowest point front of Billy Goat one inch from the ground. Had a trial run but was not very successful. The main problem was the grass I was trying to pick up had been lying for two days and we'd had some rain. So I'm having a re-think. The ground I mow is a little on the lumpy side and not flat. The front of the BG can catch if I don't raise it fast enough. Also I think something to loosen the lying grass would be handy. I'm thinking of towing it reverse, with a rubber strip along the bottom of the scoop to loosen the grass, which should then be sucked up. I'm going to try turning the body round on the chassis so the outlet still points rearwards. Also turn the engine round on the body so it stays aligned with the handle. This is going to be a long term project methinks.
  28. 4 points
    Cub Cadet

    Wheel Horse RJ-58 Restoration

    Another little update on whats been going on with the resto Chassis nice and rust free Pits were filled and sanded down and then given a quick coat of red oxide primer to keep the rust away for a few weeks until I got back to it. Next were the wheels, the front ones are missing and i'm struggling to source some. The rear rims are pretty much ready for the bin, the metal is extremely thin all the way around the edge, 30% has rusted all the way through. On the plus side I have managed to source a cub cadet steering wheel with just one small crack in it, its now been repaired. It just needs painting now and we need to figure a way of mounting it to the steering shaft, the original used a roll pin but we won't be able to drill a hole for one now.
  29. 4 points
    Stormin

    A horse and a Billy goat.

    Just a photo of the wheel change. Been working/thinking of a hitch arrangement. It won't be going on the C-125 as shown, but on the C-121 (Black Horse) with electric lift. That will allow ground clearance to be adjusted on the move. The wheels will most likely stay in the raised position, as shown.
  30. 4 points
    Cub Cadet

    Wheel Horse RJ-58 Restoration

    Thats the plan Norm, another 12 weeks to work on it yet It wasn't too bad, its all fixed and primed now and looks good as new, plus its original Haha, you say that but we've got plenty of new steel here , I could've made one but i'd like to keep as much original as possible. Next job on the resto was to tackle the gearbox which didn't work There was holes drilled in the axle ends. Mangled input shaft To make the axles on the diff useable we flipped them around, first we welded the holes, turned them down and cut new keyways. one of the bushes was worn so we machined a new one and fit it. To turn the input shaft down we had to use a bit of ingenuity, we clamped it in a taper lock and turned it down so I can use a taper lock pulley on it. The jig worked a treat. Next everything was cleaned of rust. New gaskets were made. We welded up surplus holes. The gearbox is now back together, primed and works as good as new
  31. 4 points
    Stormin

    Wheel Horse RJ-58 Restoration

    He/dad would have to buy steel , Chris. And you now what those Yorkshiremen are like.
  32. 4 points
    slf-uk

    Visitors and tractor testing

    Last weekend Paul and Wendy popped in to see us and we decided to get some tractors out for Paul to try. I managed to capture some video of the five we used which I have posted on Joseph's YouTube channel. The D160 was misbehaving not helped by me forgetting to turn the fuel on. Hopefully we will get a little time today to do a bit of work on it. Iain
  33. 4 points
    neil

    Instant tractor lighting

    I bought a few of these handy little LED lights from B&Q , £6.00 each light , no wiring , fully adjustable , can sight them in any direction , amazing allumination and transferable to any of your tractors, magnetic positioning .
  34. 4 points
    Stormin

    Wheel Horse Sickle Bar.

    This morning I sorted out the belt tensioner. I cut the end off the tensioner where the bearing had fitted. Turned a sleeve to fit the I.D. of the insert that goes in the pulley bearing. Then put it all together. I refitted the tensioner to tractor, same way as before and gave it a try. Now the flat of the belt was running in the V of the pulley. Not really an Ideal thing, plus the belt flapped a bit. So a bit of thinking and trying different positions, here is what I ended up with. Seems to work fine and as soon as I can I'll give it a trial.
  35. 4 points
    pmackellow

    Lawn Boy Loafer

    Added its big brother to the collection on Sunday
  36. 4 points
    Stormin

    Wheel Horse Sickle Bar.

    Today I made a bush up to take the place of the lifting handle for the cutter bar. I'll maybe make a handle at a later date. I wanted to work out belt lengths, mule pulley positions, adjustment etc. I found a belt in my belt collection that fitted mule drive to cutter bar gearbox nicely. Fitted nicely is a bit of an understatement. Bit of a pain the rigmarole fitting it. But it went on. I'll be getting one slightly shorter as the one on leaves little for adjustment. For the drive from PTO to mule drive shaft, I found one of those emergency universal fan belts. Cut down a bit that fitted and gives me an idea of belt required. I've to yet workout a tensioner for that. With belts fitted, pulleys lined up and taper locks tightened, I tried turning everything by hand. Was a bit stiff at first then freed up. Most likely because the bar hadn't moved for some time. So the moment of truth had arrived. Will it work? Started up the tractor and running on just above idle slowly engaged the PTO. Bar was flat on the floor BTW. Happy to say, actually very happy, all went well and fine. As soon as I get new belts I'll give it a try on the overgrown bridleway up past my home. If all goes well, it'll be to remove for painting the mule drive. I just hope it will go up the ramps onto the trailer ok. It's definitely not something you can or want to remove in a hurry.
  37. 3 points
    Alan

    HALF a HORSE.

    As some will already know, the Showman and I have been clearing a friend's land of his large collection of various garden tractors, horticultural machinery, workshop equipment and whatever else you can think of. Nearly 2 :1/2 years later the end is in sight. As friend John is having to sell up and move soon due to ill health, my Roper tractor which was stored on his land has now moved on to a new home. As I have very little room at home to work and store in, mainly a single car size garage which is already half full of stuff, thoughts turned to something small to build which could be transported in the back of my Meriva car. Small enough to fit in the car, but hopefully big enough to ride on, but if not towing a trailer which I can sit on and operate the tractor by remote steering etc. Various options were looked at, thought about and discarded due to too many compound curves etc. Then, after studying photo's of the D-series Wheel Horse which has very few awkward curves a plot was hatched. During the clear out lots of "might be handy one day" bits and pieces were kept. One of the few tractors which remained, unloved and unwanted, was this Bolens ride on mower. It was eventually stripped of useful parts, gearbox, axle / diff assembly, wheels and various other bits before the remains were left to be dumped much later. Also found among the junk in John's barn was the bottom end of a small engine which was later found to be a 65cc BSA 4 stroke. After further hunting by the Showman other parts were found in various locations in the barn loft. Enough parts to build a complete engine with spares left over. Engine just roughly assembled in this photo. John never stored related parts together and in one place. We think this was his anti theft device. Find a few parts, no good without the others, so leave alone. Appears to have worked as we have found on various occasions. Tri rib tires Chris. To be continued.
  38. 3 points
    Alan

    HALF a HORSE.

    This photo shows the chassis on 4 wheels, still with the first style front hubs and with new tyres fitted. Tread wrong way around I know, wheels just roughly mounted. The front tyres are 9 x 3.50 x 4 made for mini motor cycles fitted to the Bolens 4" hubs. The 9" tyre was better proportion wise than the 10" previously fitted although I have not been able to find an inner tube with a straight valve. The bent valve finished up hard against the rim when inflated. A little mod later improved things. No photo of this yet. The height difference of 2:3/4" between the engine and gearbox shafts can be seen. Just by chance an old Picador double bearing found at John's had the same C/L's and with a slightly cut down base was a perfect fit. Now what to use to transmit the drive from top to bottom. Sprockets and chain from old mowers were dug out. Most were too large to fit between the frame or were double sprockets. The smaller sections were cut off and after trying various combinations things started to look workable. After trying various chain lengths, too short or too long, a cut down mower tensioner was fitted but didn't look right. Another sprocket was found which fitted between the frames but had the wrong ID. This was bored out and welded to the gearbox sprocket ( thanks Chris ) after mounting the pair on a suitable size bolt. After this, the existing keyway in the small sprocket was used as a guide to file out the larger one. The result was a nice tap fit on the gearbox shaft and key and also after altering the chain did away with the need of the tensioner although this could be refitted later.
  39. 3 points
    HeadExam

    This Years Garden

    The last few years the garden has suffered for one reason or another, this year it is doing reasonably well with corn, onions, radishes, okra, cantaloupe, cucumbers, zucchini, and squash. Tomatoes and watermelon are growing in old mower tires and I started asparagus this year in hopes of having some next year or the year after. I have to raise tarps up on the fence as the winds up here reach over 35 mph bi-weekly and over 70 mph during storms coming from the south or west.
  40. 3 points
    Stormin

    A horse and a Billy goat.

    Today I decided to remove blower housing body and engine from the chassis. Body and engine taken of with to much of a problem though rather fiddly. Pleased to say the all the nuts came undone easily. Next split engine from blower housing. Again all nuts and bolts undid freely. This was when I realised that the blower fan wouldn't come out of the housing while attached to the engine. Again luck smiled down and the bolt securing fan to engine came loose with no trouble. To get fan off the shaft was another thing. Had to tip the assembly nearly on it's side. Just enough to get a puller on the fan and not to much that engine oil leaked out. Holding the puller onto the head of a long bolt that fitted down the bolt hole in the shaft, steadying the whole assembly and using a ratchet and socket, was a bit of a juggling job. Thankfully the fan came away trouble free. Below is how things look now. The reason I've taken everything apart, is my idea of turning the housing round on the chassis and engine round on the blower housing., as mentioned earlier. Two snags now reared their heads. First a rubber vibration absorbing gasket is fitted 'tween engine and housing. This was perished and came away in bits. Secondly the engine mounting holes are not drilled equally on the p.c.d. To be continued.........
  41. 3 points
    S1g

    Project Budget Sachs Diesel Howard Gem.

    Due to having a few issues going on I haven't touched this for nearly 2 months. Heres where im up to.
  42. 3 points
    Bought a couple of Esso money boxes at the show, cast iron and cheap. Also got the plaque
  43. 3 points
    pmackellow

    Sussex Meet and Greet

    Fame in the latest Lawn and Garden Tractor magazine...
  44. 3 points
    Stormin

    Deck wheel refurb.

    Used the deck for the first time today since repairing the wheels. Pleased to say all well and good. Back to usual deck heights.
  45. 3 points
    the showman

    Smallholders show 2017

    Someone thought the show was pants but everyone else enjoyed it .
  46. 3 points
    Stormin

    Wheel Horse Sickle Bar.

    Stripped it down this morning and got it all painted. Put it all back together tonight and a problem rear it's head. The cutter was sticking. So off came the bar and I removed the blade. Soon saw the problem. Paint had got onto the slide. A clean off with emery clothe and back together I could pull the blade back and forth easily. Back on the machine and it ran fine. I gave it some oil and left it running for 15 minutes. Couldn't resist the temptation and tried some paper through it. Cut it without problem. Maybe get to try it on some grass tomorrow.
  47. 3 points
    Stormin

    Wheel Horse Sickle Bar.

    Got the belts this morning and fitted the PTO to mule one. A little longer than I'd wanted, but the closest I could get. So now it was time to make a belt tensioner. I'd had a bit of a think and a root round. I would have liked a small pulley, but I'd nothing about. I did find a nice new bearing. What it was for is any bodies guess. Might do I thought, so before long I had this knocked up. And it ended up here. Not ideal I know and a bit of a rethink will be thought. Another problem occurred when I gave it a try. The belt came off the tensioner. I think the bottom pulley may be a tad out of line.
  48. 3 points
    Darmic1

    MK12 Villiers

    More messing around with this project today..... Had some 6mm plywood lying around, thought i'd make a 'battery box' to go with the exhibit....... Only had to buy the hinges, catch and 15x18mm timber..... Even the battery is a 'freebie'
  49. 3 points
    Stormin

    Wheel Horse Sickle Bar.

    Got a bit more done today. Getting the lift right was a bit of a problem. When down, the downward curve of the lift arm fouled the guard and top pulley. Eventually I decided to disconnect the lift chain and cable tie the arm up as far as I could. I could have cut the downward curve off, but I don't want to alter things if I can help it. With the arm up I fastened the lift chain to the guard/frame. Next I had to have someway of holding the cutter bar in the vertical position. Had a root round and came up with this. Finally a couple of shots of it down and up. Next thing to do is make a handle to lift the cutter bar. Again I don't want to alter the original handle. Get that done and I can work out a belt length.
  50. 2 points
    Triumph66

    Wheel Horse RJ-58 Restoration

    Ewan, if it's anything like your Cub Cadet resto, this will be another WH salavaged from the scrap heap. Look forward to reading more more about the project in due course.