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Here is my wife's O&R display at our local show this year. It was before she got the Aquabug boat engine.

Well, got one done anyway. Took much longer to do than anticipated. I cut some of that blue spring steel I ordered for making the carb springs. The first stuff I ordered was too thick for the carb springs and it finally found a purpose. Sliced a long thin piece off then heated and bent the edge of it into a circle to fit in the dogleg hole. Drilled out the old stuff. Put the new spring in place then dropped solder in. The bubble of solder was big so I also hammered it so it would stay very tight. Filed off the remainder and cut the spring to length. Seems to work well. UGH, only 7 more to go! I like that gun bluing stuff so I'll probably clean them all up and coat them with that too.

It's been a while since I've posted on here, so I thought I would make a new thread about a project that I've started recently and try to update it regularly, hopefully it might be of interest to a few people. This machine is a bit different to most of our collection - it is a little Landmaster Super Deluxe Ride on (I believe is what they were marketed as). I bought this in April this year, having had it pointed out to us by a fellow forum member (thanks again Paul). I barely touched the tractor for a few months due to studying for exams, but since there is a couple of weeks left of the summer holidays and some of our other projects have slowed down I have finally gotten around to looking at this. Here are a couple of pictures of the tractor when we picked it up. This machine was a COVID project for the previous owner, and he made a number of modifications to the tractor. The biggest change is probably the engine swap that it has had. I am under the impression that it originally had a 4hp Briggs in it, but the previous owner said that he struggled to get parts for it, so he swapped in this 5hp model of a similar series. I have used the numbers on the engine tin to date the engine to the 15th of November 1978. From what I've seen from Paul's thread of the restoration of his Landmaster, the tractor itself was made in 1966, so the engine is 12 years younger. The previous owner told me he had it running and driving 18 months before he sold it, so a bit longer now but hopefully the engine will run without many issues. Other modifications include the chute on the side of the deck, which I quickly removed, pneumatic tyres, extensive deck repairs and the handlebars appear to have been cut off, and remounted upside-down using a T-joint. It has also been repainted, with some parts having the wrong colour on it such as the front wheels which should be white, and the engine could do with a lick of paint too, which should be white. The quality of the paint isn't the best, so probably needs some work in future Fast forward to a couple of days ago, when I began to look at this machine in more detail. I removed the handle bars and bonnet to gain better access to the engine, which seemed far more fiddly than it should have - this seems to be a pattern on this machine unfortunately! This wasn't helped by all imperial fixings being replaced with metric bolts of varying sizes. With these parts off I drained the fuel, as on this engine the carb is mounted on the fuel tank such that the tank appears to act as a fuel bowl - plus I didn't fancy pulling old fuel through the fuel system when I checked for a spark. We bought this pump years ago and have never used it for anything, beats syphoning the fuel by nearly drinking it. Glad I did drain it though, I wasn't very keen on how the old fuel looked or the sediment that was suspended in it. With the fuel drained I was happy to pull the engine over, so I used our spark plug tester to check for a spark, and as you can see below it did indeed have a spark so that's one less possible issues While I had the spark plug out (and it was easier to pull over) I took the opportunity to identify what all of the controls do. I don't have access to any sort of manual for the tractor, only for the engine so before this I wasn't sure how everything works. This uncovered a couple of issues, mainly that both the deck and drive belts coming off the engine pulley are not being disengaged enough when the clutch is pushed down, so I need to make some adjustments to allow the belts to slip when the deck is disengaged and the clutch pedal is pushed. The good news is that the brake appears to work, along with the forward-reverse gear change and 1st to 2nd. This is as far as I have got so far, next step is probably going to be lifting the front of the tractor to get access to the belt tensioners on the underside of the machine and making some adjustments. I'll post again if and when I make more notable progress.

Slow progress, but now have a finished rolling chassis that I can assemble the important bits on. Engine was the first bit to go on- Still working on the chain drive and guards on the pump side, with the 'idler'- tensioner set up being the current challenge to design and fit- Clutch Lever has been a problem, but have now finalised the handle shape and will be cut from 10mm thick block of brass. Will also have a lock lever fitted- Lots going on with other things, but will try and improve update regularity. Regards

Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets- Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss. Regards

Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished- Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings. Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image- Hopefully won't be too long before next update. Regards

Finished making the (12) 6BA Bronze bolts and brass nuts for the Fan Shaft bearing/grease point housings over the last weekend and now trial assembled on the unit. All good-

Many thanks for the comments. Sorry for being quiet for a while. Have been busy when able. Lots of decision making on design and machine time, but seem to produce little visually. The Tank Cartridges were set up for drilling and tapping. Had to obtain a metre of 10mm studding to make the fixings, as they're quite tall- Luckily the igniter percussion inserts drilled out ok, then tapped both bases 1/8"BSP for the fittings. The fuel taps were done as per previous post, so then just the Air Valve to design and make. Shown in next image on the left- The left one shows the top of the reserve tank and the right shows the base of the main tank. Next job was the fan shaft layout, bearing housings and 'Screw Down Grease Cups'. I had the latter vintage cups, but had to make the housings for them out of cast bronze bar. Made a lot of work for myself milling to shape just to form the platforms to screw the cups into- Finished them on the lathe so that I could fit a short piece of brass tube between them as a seal against water ingress- Cheated a bit with these, as I'm hard soldering them to large flat brass washers to make the flange for bolting through and will match (in size, not colour) the ball bearing housings also machined from solid- So here is the basic assembly/layout of the fan shaft and now about to start on the sprocket mount and fan/blades- Regards

Finished the Fuel Taps. Lots of different set-ups and operations required. Did much of the work while still part of the parent brass rod. Cross drilling 3/8"(9.55mm)- I wanted the tap levers opposed to eachother for access (in the off position), so had to be careful when it came to drilling through with the tapered plugs fitted- . The Tap's cam limit plates had to be soldered together, then to a stub of brass for machining to shape using a rotary table- When as much work as possible was done, I cut them away from the parent bar and 'Silver Soldered' the pipe connection rods to the Tap bodies. All the fiitings are for 3/16" (4.75mm) copper pipe. The tap tapers are 'pulled in' using the correct 'Thackery' coil spring washers and provides just the right amount of resistance- A light polish and just need proper 1/16" Split (cotter) Pins to finish off. Maybe blend the joints. Happy with this first time job for me. Regards

Not a lot of progress, what with the cold spell of the last 3 weeks. Confined myself in the warmer environment of the Lounge. Too cold in the workshop. Have been designing and drawing up the Fuel fittings I require. Nothing 'off the shelf' will suit, so making my own and using a 1950s ATCO Pet Cock as a guide (shown on the right). Got some Lathe time in over last few days and started turning up a Taper Reamer blank, then a first Pet Cock plug at the same settings. Got to produce several of these so I have a stock. The taper angle is 7 degrees inclusive . The little levers that screw into the plug are threaded 5/32" Whitworth, so making them the same - Had to keep to Imperial, not easy to mix metric on these, plus I have been asked to reproduce an old Pet Cock style for a restoration. Ready to part off the finished plug from the rod and make the next one now. The reamer blank is next to finish machining the cutting edges, then harden, temper and hone. Quite pleased really, as the new plug actually fits perfectly in the old tap body, so I got the angle right. Regards.

Thank you Gents for your positive comments. Lot of work sorting the Reduction Unit design set up. I needed to provide stanchions for the tank(s) support and location, bearing support for the fan drive, Pto clutch lever mount point and lubricator positions, all in one area. I decided on brass plates for extending up to fan shaft line. Started with an old 12 inch (305mm) square plate shown during marking out- After lot of cutting and careful drilling time, I was able to fit it and began the stiffening with bracing layout and fittng the welded and shaped stanchions. Lubrication connections made to fit into the large brass bearings, then made/fitted the mountings for the Lubricators. These Lubricators were found in an old barn about 15 years ago and are shown in the very first image of this Topic. Had to anneal the thick walled copper pipes, shaped to fit using a home made tube bender also shown in the image below- Had to use incompatible metals in this unit (electrolytic/galvanic reaction risk), so will have to be careful to seal the mating surfaces of the Aluminium and Brass parts, even though they will be polished and lacquered. Hoping to get this unit''s mounting plate/support welded up soon. Regards and wishing all a Happy New Year

Greetings from Denmark, I think we need more german stuff here . I have this portable (well - 305 kilos, no wheels) generator as used by the german forces in WW2. They were built from 1940 well into the 1950's. This particular one is from 1944, which can be seen from many details made from steel, which, on the earlier versions were made from aluminium. The generator set delivers 7,5kW on three phases. The engine is a 600cc Zündapp boxer, which makes it very smooth even at full load. This one is fully functional, but most have defective generators these days. /Steen Markings

I am making progress on my colt deluxe. Cleaned the carb out, cleaned all electrical connections and replaced the condenser. Got it running but have a fuel leak from the petrol tap to attend to before a test drive. Also been busy prepping and painting a loader to fit on it. 20241030_135437.mp4

Hope all's well Ewan. Clutch lever done and fitted. Cable was a B+*^h. Very tight job making it up from stainless inner cable and outer sleeve. Nipples made and silver soldered. Managed to retain lots of adjustment take-up on both tensioners- This section is now ready to go on the chassis. Still bugged with decision about fitting tensioner adjustment on the output chain drive?. Regards.

Here is her newest addition. It is an Aquabug with the electric conversion. I will get pictures of the electric later.

Here's my one in the display shed with the other O&R powered machines (amongst other things)... Paul

Have you guys come across this tiny mini bike called a BIG ELEPhANT? It was built in Japan and uses a Tas P7 engine or have seen one with a Tas S22? Here is a photo of the original sales brochure and it has a Big Elephant sitting on the seat of a 1969/70 Honda CB750 which probably dates it pretty well!

While digging around the internet looking for info on the Ouragan and the o&r engine ..... I was lucky enough to find this thread . I also own one of these cars That i bought from a toy collector that did not know what it was. Mine was missing the engine but over all it is very complete . I have located a o&r drill that will likely be the power for the racer. And i will now check the gear box for a number ! Thanks for the shared info you have all ready found. These are pretty scarce I may have found 8 to 10 of them around the world in my searches . some cars trade and go to auction with same number or decals . In 1966 these cars were $1200-1500 when new (a new mustang in 66 was $2500) 1968 Devillaine Ouragan Monoplace " Ferrari " - CLASSIC.COM This is mine after loosely assembling to find out what it looked like ( it was completely taken apart)

Thanks Alan, Been preoccupied with lots of small jobs and pulling together two of the three sections of this project. The middle section (reduction gear unit) has taken a lot of time and work, as it includes the fuel tanks. They are finished, lacquered, mounted and the fuel gauge nestles between them- Still incomplete middle section where I have to make up the cable and lever system for operating the clutch/brake shoes. The last job will be to fill the Reduction gear unit with oil - All the brass/bronze work has been polished and lacquered as assembly progressed, with the exception of the engine cowling, as I now have some clear gloss VHT Lacquer for that. output/fan drive sprocket modified to fit onto a woodruf key and locked in place with a grub screw Finalised the location of the modified throttle lever and cable route, which keeps it neat, tidy and handy location. Lever and cable joints are watertight. Although I will have to change the Carb Air inlet and Choke layout to prevent water ingress- Tempted to start the engine for a run soon to check how it sounds with the exhaust. Has a lovely bright blue spark at the plug and the timing is spot on. Mahogany planks being treated prior to fitting and will be yacht varnished after. Pump drive and location of it is a bit of a headache, but working on it- Regards.

Happy New Year! This is a model J gearbox engine from a Polaris Power Pole snow blower. Recently member @seb T was asking about a gearbox for a Devillaine Ouragan car. So I had the engine out anyway and needed to pull the gearbox to verify if it would fit his engine. Well I might as well rebuild everything. Gearbox with a new seal and gaskets. Plus the entire engine just in case he is interested in a completely rebuilt package. Got everything cleaned up tonight. Tomorrow I'll remove the head and re-ring the piston and put her back together.

hens teeth are something very hard to find if you have never seen them you properly never will . some of use have seen them and may never see them again some of us have them and do not know it . some of us don't want to see them . some of us have know idea what they are . I'm sorry I miss this I wish I had more time to do it

That did “turn” out nice. I agree, the rings are a nice flare but not needed.

Hammer restoration huh? Man you're really getting into the crazy tech stuff. Just bust'n, please let me know how it works out.

I see your working at record pace did you get kicked out of the house again

We texted today about it and I mentioned a couple others might be interested in them too so he said he could make a template so they all come out the same. Once perfected it will be easier and faster to make them.

Pulled this one off the shelf to clean up and rebuild for the next project. It's in fairly nice condition so no painting need. That's one of the nice things about these little engines. It's cold outside so these can be done inside and right on my office desk where it's warm. I use a citrus based cleaner so no fumes inside the house but I've been thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner to drop all the parts in. There's so many little nooks and crannies on these things so cleaning it is about 80% of the work time involved time to rebuild an engine.

Only Jan and already got 4 engines rebuilt so far this winter. The Amp Champ in the other thread is done, the snow blower gearbox engine in this thread, plus these other 2 in the pic with the blower engine. The guy across the street is going to spin up some of the recoil handles on his wood lathe. So now it's time to start putting these rebuilt engines on some tools and then get started rebuilding those engines or I might keep those tool engines together with the tools. IDK yet

guess it would help to put the gas tank on. ooops! Good thing I looked at the pic on the screen

As best as I can tell this is a first generation drillgine with the O&R type 100 3/4hp engine (serial 013352). I bought this drill a while back. It was seized up tight. I tried my best to save this one. It sat in my heated ultrasonic for three days vibrating away. I even went to the extent of putting the crankcase in my lathe to cut the cylinder off to save the piston and rod. Sadly the engine was too far gone and it was not meant to be. When my parting tool grabbed the port on the steel liner the crankcase got pulled out of the chuck on my lathe and bye bye went the crankcase. I was able to save the crankshaft from this mess. I am not going to get around to this project anytime soon so I figured I would offer it up for parts should someone be needing them for their drillgine, or if someone wanted to be ambitious and rebuild this one. I did find one repair on the drill which actually looks well done. The drill case has been tig welded up and someone added a little bent steel bracket to better support the handle. I realize this is not in great shape, and I am not looking to get rich on it. I will ship this drill anywhere in the USA. Please send me a private message if interested with your offer. Thanks Chris

Got the engine done and mostly assembled but still need to do carb top half and recoil. Has a nice hot blue spark just spinning by hand and very good compression. Didn't need to do rings as everything with the cylider and piston was clean and good like this engine had very low hours. Definitely not as fast doing this as I used to be. And spent a bunch of time looking for escaped bearing rollers! LOL I let a few out by mistake when not paying attention. Feeling old as I can't see very well and the hands aren't as steady putting those little bearing rollers back in. I'll wait to grease the gearbox.

Jumping in late here, it’s great to see this car again and the gang already figuring out how to get it back together. That Little Big Mans would be an amazing event to see in person! Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!

Had an opportunity to obtain this Sprayer in exchange for a contribution to a Charity. It was in a sad state after being exposed to sun light and temperature extremes for many years. The all important nozzle was missing, a large dent in the base and the wooden handles were very dry and cracked with shrinkage. Solid Brass and riveted/soldered joints, the item weighs 2.060 kgs dry. Fortunately, the Museum Curator had another near complete example, so I was able to borrow the nozzle parts for reproduction. Found the thread form was 1/8" BSP parallel, but several thousanths of an inch under size!. The main nozzle part wasn't difficult to produce, but had to make a reamer to form the minute taper of the outlet and produced the atomiser/restricter which was complicated- The Air Pump leather washer was tired and still fairly good, but made a new one from slightly thicker raw leather - Thie plunger is obviously tighter, but needs to relax and bed in and is easing with use. Being a pressure vessel, the control tap and pressure relief valve are all clean a working well- The hardwood plunger handle was so dry, it soaked up 20ml of raw linseed oil on the first feed. Another 5ml satified it's thirst and the cracks slowly closed up over a week. All back together and waiting for an acid, then soap, then soda washout, the latter to neutralise the ph level to 7.- Ignore the extra 'Thumb Nut' on the back of the horizontal handle, it is one I made for the museum example that was missing it. Bit of ageing and it will merge in well. My example may well be a 'Suds Pump' cutting oil feed for my Myford to save on electricity. So, a very nice piece of early 1950s quality re purposed. Regards

The latest copy of Stationary Engine magazine arrived today, complete with a small article on some of our Ohlsson Rice machines...

Just for everyone's information. I have uploaded the available manual in PDF form for the Hayter Osprey and 21 machines. It's in the orange header line marked DOWNLOADS. Engine data will need to be obtained from the B&S website. Regards

The UK firm of Tarpen were distributors of the Turbair sprayer with O&R power during the 1960's. The firm also produced a Mini engine setup with O&R power that could be used on some of their tools. I have two in my collection at the moment, one on a Tarpen 33 hedge trimmer, the other on a cultivator...

Outstanding work as ever!

RPM at full throttle is 6300 So yeah, they scream a little bit Governor is never "guaranteed" but they seem to work very well. I've never had one fail while the engine is running. It's controlled by the spring on the bottom of the carb. No adjustments are available on those older versions. Newer ones have a lever that can adjust tension on the spring Diaphragm should be soft and pliable for best results. Wrinkles indicate it's probably old and stiff.

Hi, just resurrecting an old thread to get some information and advice. im just sorting out my late Dad’s shed. He was an engineer, garage owner and tinkerer! i came across the chainsaw and presumably a flexible drive. i haven’t (yet) found a motor to drive it. Could the drive clamp and belt have been hooked up to the rusty old cultivator that I also found in the garden? i have no use or desire to keep any of these things, but would rather see them going to another enthusiast, rather than the dump. Any advice on where to get rid of them would be useful too. The tools are near Yeovil in Somerset, UK. Many thanks Paul.

New member @Sinclair is from Australia. You can try contacting him through Private Message. Click on the little envelope icon on the top right corner. The small water pump is missing.

Well, later than planned, I've made much progress on the fuel tanks and the mounts. Still more copper tapping to final size, but nearly there with both tanks. Reserve fuel tap mounting boss finished and light press fit ready for silver soldering shown here- Have been making the straps, platforms and retaining rings., the latter from 1/4' x 1/4" x 1/16" brass angle. cut, bent and silver soldered to produce 18 sided rings- Eventually the concept in my head and on paper materialised into this - Pleased with the strength and rigidity on the base and supports for the tanks (the lines drawn on the copper parts are for more dressing out of irregularities for a better fit. A little fettling of the fit around the upper cradles/straps. Working on the Fuel Gauge parts at the moment. Will then return to the reduction gear unit and final location of it on the chassis

Hello David, Welcome. Hopefully you will have success in your research of Conyers. I have seen several products with their name from the 60s>. Your engine is a Briggs and Stratton, possibly 3hp , or even 4hp. You can obtain all the parts lists and opersting manuals based on the Model, Spec and Serial numbers stamped into the engine cowling right next to the Governor adjusting screw/Rod behind the Air Filter in your posted image. I refurbished a '72' Genset some years back with the same engine and it's progress was logged in this section of the forum. If it is of any help, here is a link- 72 Genset If you need any help with the engine, just post it here. Afraid I can't help with the generating part, as I'm not familiar with it. Regards.

Bases turned out really nice! The green one almost looks laser cut.

Wishing all at MOM a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. It's blowing a gale out there I hope Santa stays on course!!

Found another pic I had its not a very good pic of the mounting. I thought this might help a pic of the ser #

I believe this gearbox will work for the car. I will also look for a shaft that fits on the end of it for the pulley. Before selling, let's make sure we can get or make all of the parts needed first. I would like to keep the engine for the snowblower -- BUT I will sell it for something like that car, because they are so rare.

I've been designing/making several parts over the last month. decided to go for rope pull start on the engine, simpler job and I could use an old pulley that was used originally on the 'Yellow Mower Challenge ATCO' back in around 1959. The pulley is a 4" Picador with angled slots cut in and filed for the rope knotted end. I had to make the brass retaining bolt once I'd identified the flywheel nut thread form (9/16" x 20tpi BSC). It is fairly quick to remove to gain access to the ignition points/mag- The mahogany bumper blocks were added so as to allow a short overhang of the pulley/flywheel and puts the engine/mount centre line over the rear axle. The finished engine mount has some embelishments added in the form of brass straps- Working on the fuel tanks stand/mount presently and have finished bashing the copper to shape for the top of the main fuel tank. In the end, I used a highly polished 'Tow Bar' Ball unit as a 'Dolly' to form the copper shape - I have more work to do on it before soldering up and make the reserve tank. Reduction gear mounts next and the drive etc for the cooling fan. Regards

It was donated a while ago by a friend in Wales, it was up in the roof until the other day I've not tried to clean it up, as you say it would do more harm than good !

Found this box and extra bottles whilst looking for something else (as you do) Now with the display

Thanks for adding that Paul, Tarpen must have briefly marketed the Turbair in 1967, as both of my 1968 Turbair Tot 2S sprayers are branded Turbair Ltd (Waltham Abbey/Cross), as is the 1974 Series 13B engine I have from a later Turbair Tot 2S. All the literature I have is from Turbair Ltd too. As for Edwards Bals, there was this Turbair Tot sold a few years ago and another NOS boxed one with the Edwards Bals address on the box (made £245). Of course it would be nice to see a Tarpen branded one too or even a catalogue with it in from Tarpen. David