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Here is the newest addition to her O&R collection. It has a 12VDC port, a 120VDC, and a 120VAC outlet. We bought this from a friend.

Lawn-Boy 10650 mower Located in the uk enthusiast required Spares or repair stood for 10 years in a shed Too good to send to the scrap yard Complete with collection bag x2 And manual

Very cool, great addition to the collection. I was just thinking the other day that things have been a little quiet on here for O&R finds. I’m certainly not having a lot of luck finding any these days. Glad you landed that little generator!

I've finally got around to updating this thread, and this post should bring it up to date. We fitted up the steering bars and pulled the engine over, however it wasn't getting any fuel through. We ended up pulling all of the steering and bonnet off again took most of the fuel system apart, cleaned it all out and reassembled the engine. There was no obvious blockages, however when we pulled the engine over again it pulled fuel through nicely. We then gave it a proper pull, and it went. The Landmaster now runs pretty nicely, it's quite loud, and the swapped pulley makes it scary to drive in 2nd gear but it is entirely functional now. Heres a link to one of my latest videos where we got the Landmaster running: We have had the tractor out since this video and it produced a plume of smoke, which smelt heavily of burning rubber so I think one of our new belts slipped a bit, so we need to look into that again. We are also looking into getting the correct size pulley to make the machine nicer to use, it is too quick for grass cutting at the moment. Heres a couple more pictures of the tractor in its current state: Thanks for reading, Joseph

Hi All, I am a new member but hope my content is of interest and may inspire others to use their Suffolk punch mowers. I am a fan among other things of Suffolk punch mowers with Suffolk iron foundry engine. I have attached a picture, both of these 75cc mowers are in use, the 14" mower will be refurbished sometime over the next couple of years, the 12" mower has been re-purposed so it has a new life as a scarifier which is what I would like to talk about in a few forthcoming posts. The 75cc iron engine on the 12" has also been slightly modified using my lathe and milling machine, more to follow...

I am making progress on my colt deluxe. Cleaned the carb out, cleaned all electrical connections and replaced the condenser. Got it running but have a fuel leak from the petrol tap to attend to before a test drive. Also been busy prepping and painting a loader to fit on it. 20241030_135437.mp4

A few pics of the collection.

Hope all's well Ewan. Clutch lever done and fitted. Cable was a B+*^h. Very tight job making it up from stainless inner cable and outer sleeve. Nipples made and silver soldered. Managed to retain lots of adjustment take-up on both tensioners- This section is now ready to go on the chassis. Still bugged with decision about fitting tensioner adjustment on the output chain drive?. Regards.

Hi all! Been a while, but I have done some work on my 1978 Westwood Gazelle. I have owned it since 2015 but there's been a few years it wasn't running and I did not have time to do anything with it or sort it. My goal is to get it running, and I would like to fit an underslung exhaust with a rear exit. It's in pretty good shape overall, would be fun to have it running again!

I just use my fingers. Wind a bunch of wraps then pull on it so it tightens up the coil then pinch it tight again and repeat as many times as it takes. The factory new spring retainer is a piece of steel shaped like a C which keeps it tight in a package and makes then easy to install. You can make one out of a 1/8" sliver of 2 inch pipe. I think even PVC pipe would work. Wind the spring by hand, then let it uncoil into the C shaped retainer. That way it can easily be placed into the recoil housing. Then the retainer is removed while holding the spring down in the housing with your thumb. Let it uncoil slowly in the housing until it's tight

Sorry, I did post a pic of the pieces. You should have a 3 piece muffler now so the piece in the center is the spacer and they can be stacked as many as you want

There's one cap that has the face with the little holes and the rest are the spacers with bent tab holes at the bottom. You can stack as many as you want but you'll need to make a threaded rod piece for whatever length you stack them to retain it. You can typically find longer screws at the hardware store and just bend the end like the one that;s on there now. Pretty sure the thread size is #6

Tiny Tiger Generator Operating Instructions Models 5001-1 & 5001-2-1.pdf

I will have to check it out and see if it says on it what it is. Thanks for the information. We went to Rough & Tumble two weeks ago and she got a couple more O&R's I will make a new post for them.

Where abouts in Sussex are you ?

That's a nice find. Cool little generators It's either a Dyna-Mite or a Life sav r

Not over interested in the engine however very impressed with the dedication to re invent the design and quality of your work. I manufacture many special parts for the Ransomes MG and also the Triumph TR range of cars. Well done.

I repaired the recoil, cleaned and gapped the points, repaired the spark plug wire and put a little gas in the carb and it fired right up. I forgot to plug in a drop light but I will tomorrow as I ran out of time. I will need a diaphragm carb kit, its stiff and dried out. B ut all the parts are there. Except of course the main jet.I don't think I need a reed valve.

6 months later now, and we have finally made some notable progress on the Landmaster. I might not fit all of our progress into this update, we shall see because there is quite a lot to cover. Paul kindly lent us his Landmaster so that we could see what had been modified on ours in the past, which has proven very useful and has uncovered things that we wouldn't have spotted without a similar machine next to ours. The first thing that we noticed was that our front axle was upside down. There is an arch shape in the centre of the axle on one side, which should point upwards. Previously our front axle had been scraping the grille when the axle pivoted, however with the axle flipped over it now has much more space to pivot. You can see the scrape marks in the picture below, and the amount of space gained from flipping the axle over Something else we noticed was that our machine appeared to have its clutch set up wrong. It was set up such that when the clutch pedal is pushed down, an idler pulley is moved away from the drive belt, removing tension from the drive belt and allowing it to slip on the engine pulley. However, from comparing to Pauls machine, we know that the clutch should be set up as a 'push to drive' pedal, where the belt sits on the other side of the idler pulley and when the pedal is pressed down, it tensions the drive belt and drive is provided the gearbox. We have now made this change, which required a slightly longer belt, so it is now up to an A45 belt. Another modification on our machine is that it doesn't have the cast engine pulley that it would have had from the factory. That has been replaced by a pair of taper lock pulleys, which are larger than the original pulley. The deck pulley is only 1/8" larger in diameter, whereas the drive pulley is 1" larger in diameter. This is not too much of a problem, as the pulleys seem to work with the size of belts that we have now We took off the rear fender to get better access to the brake band and the gearbox to make some adjustments. The gear selectors felt stiff, and it was difficult to tell when a gear had been engaged. All it took to sort this was a bit of oil in the 2 oiling points, and both selectors moved smoothly, with a clear difference between each position on the selector. The brake band just needed tightening a bit, and now functions as it should do. Finally for this update, we tackled the handlebars, which had been cut and rewelded at a different angle by a previous owner. Having removed the handlebars, we cut around one of the welds and managed to separate the handlebars into 2 parts We cleaned up the welding on the T-junction, which was pretty messy and rewelded the handlebars in the same position as Pauls Landmaster. Quite a while was spent with the angle grinder making the joins as smooth as possible, and we sprayed it with some zinc galvanising paint. Ignore the pile of Kohlers waiting to be put to use in the background We have made even further progress, but that'll have to wait for another day as my wake up time for sixth form starts with a 5. Joseph

What you can sell it for is basically dependant upon its condition, i.e. will the engine run, is the gearbox in working order, is the clutch in working order and do all other moving parts move freely. If the engine is in good working order I would be interested in buying it for the engine as I have been looking for a replacement. Given the time it has been standing you will need to ensure that the engine is not seised and preferably do an oil change before trying to start it.

Hi, It is definitely a Wolseley Scythe and looks like a 23 inch model which has a 5HP Briggs and Stratton engine. However, if its a 27 inch model it will have a 7HP Briggs & Stratton engine. I have one , but it has no engine and I am looking for a replacement engine or to modify another engine to fit as the original engine has a longer crankshaft than usual to accommodate the centrifugal clutch..

The springs can go in and out so they just need to be set back in place as long as they aren't broken. I don't remember ever seeing a distinct clutch assembly drawing but there may be one on here somewhere, I just couldn't find one. There are a couple of different clutch setups so not knowing exactly what you are working with makes any details or advice difficult. How about posting a picture of it?

The wire should go to a kill switch button on the handle to shut down the engine by grounding the coil. Location of the switch depends on the model. One port is an air vent. It goes from the bottom of the tank to just inside of the fuel cap. The other port is the fuel feed to the carb. More than likely it will need a new carb diaphragm to run or run correctly. Check the air filter BEFORE trying to start it. If it has that old crusty material inside, it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. Otherwise it will be sucked into the engine. Not good. If you use the search feature you can find other threads on the Drillgine drills. Here's a link to the search results for "Drillgine" in topics only. There are threads on the early reds and later yellows https://myoldmachine.com/search/?q=drillgine&quick=1&type=forums_topic

Buy it then 😂

Cheers Nigel this is what i did today after sitting back and thinking about it but hey they were a bugger lol.

Use a couple of longer bolts to pull the wheel together then swap them after you have tightened the shorter ones in the other holes

In 2004 I had 1/4 acre of scrub land to clear. A quick pub conversation yielded 2 scrap 8hp Westwood Gazelles; both quite early machines, one with the underslung exhaust. One working machine was the result, and within a few months it had done the job. I was about to retire, and had a couple of part time start up business's drawn up on paper, but knowing which one to go for was not an easy decision. In the event a third option was sitting in my shed. Post card advertisements in newsagents etc., and a pleasant surprise, or surprises. Within about 6 weeks I had a small grass cutting (not mowing) round, providing an adequate pension top-up, without any outlay. It grew into a 3 day a week business, and kept on going until 2018 when an arthritic knee finally made me stop. Fairly early on I built myself a see-saw trailer, which cut my loading / unloading time from 15 odd minutes to about 3. I started buying "uneconomical to repair" mowers, from a local mower repair business, and ended up with 3 machines, for different ground conditions, plus 1 that was lodged with the customer during the season. Coincidentally, they were all Westwoods, although other makes have yielded back axles. Yes back axles, you could sometimes build up a good one, out of two; not now, it's more like 3 or 4, to get one working again. Today, I have a mid 90's T1800, plus potentially 3 complete machines, out of my grave yard of bits. My 1/4 acre is now 1/2 acre, when a neighbour didn't take up the option of "his" strip of land behind him. I still enjoy mowing, as much as the engineering side. Regards Mike

Re use them if possible. I've reused many without issue if they were not damaged If they were damaged, search "High Temp gasket material" to cut your own. The O ring isn't anything special and can be found with a search for that size as well

I think its an Allen Challenger 22" Rotary Cutter.

Plenty of farcebook groups to cover that

Outstanding work as ever!

Here is my wife's O&R display at our local show this year. It was before she got the Aquabug boat engine.

Hello there new member here I've just bought a westwood ride on today I know nothing at all about these machines I'm told it was running last year when last used but that guy recently had major surgery and will never be able to operate it again hence the sale I give £20 for it yes you read that right 20 Quid I thought for that it's worth a punt Can anyone shed any light on these machines ? Places to look for info on them ? Places to buy parts if I need any ect Going to have a go at getting it running tomorrow

As best as I can tell this is a first generation drillgine with the O&R type 100 3/4hp engine (serial 013352). I bought this drill a while back. It was seized up tight. I tried my best to save this one. It sat in my heated ultrasonic for three days vibrating away. I even went to the extent of putting the crankcase in my lathe to cut the cylinder off to save the piston and rod. Sadly the engine was too far gone and it was not meant to be. When my parting tool grabbed the port on the steel liner the crankcase got pulled out of the chuck on my lathe and bye bye went the crankcase. I was able to save the crankshaft from this mess. I am not going to get around to this project anytime soon so I figured I would offer it up for parts should someone be needing them for their drillgine, or if someone wanted to be ambitious and rebuild this one. I did find one repair on the drill which actually looks well done. The drill case has been tig welded up and someone added a little bent steel bracket to better support the handle. I realize this is not in great shape, and I am not looking to get rich on it. I will ship this drill anywhere in the USA. Please send me a private message if interested with your offer. Thanks Chris