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Here is my wife's O&R display at our local show this year. It was before she got the Aquabug boat engine.

Here is the newest addition to her O&R collection. It has a 12VDC port, a 120VDC, and a 120VAC outlet. We bought this from a friend.

Lawn-Boy 10650 mower Located in the uk enthusiast required Spares or repair stood for 10 years in a shed Too good to send to the scrap yard Complete with collection bag x2 And manual

It's been a while since I've posted on here, so I thought I would make a new thread about a project that I've started recently and try to update it regularly, hopefully it might be of interest to a few people. This machine is a bit different to most of our collection - it is a little Landmaster Super Deluxe Ride on (I believe is what they were marketed as). I bought this in April this year, having had it pointed out to us by a fellow forum member (thanks again Paul). I barely touched the tractor for a few months due to studying for exams, but since there is a couple of weeks left of the summer holidays and some of our other projects have slowed down I have finally gotten around to looking at this. Here are a couple of pictures of the tractor when we picked it up. This machine was a COVID project for the previous owner, and he made a number of modifications to the tractor. The biggest change is probably the engine swap that it has had. I am under the impression that it originally had a 4hp Briggs in it, but the previous owner said that he struggled to get parts for it, so he swapped in this 5hp model of a similar series. I have used the numbers on the engine tin to date the engine to the 15th of November 1978. From what I've seen from Paul's thread of the restoration of his Landmaster, the tractor itself was made in 1966, so the engine is 12 years younger. The previous owner told me he had it running and driving 18 months before he sold it, so a bit longer now but hopefully the engine will run without many issues. Other modifications include the chute on the side of the deck, which I quickly removed, pneumatic tyres, extensive deck repairs and the handlebars appear to have been cut off, and remounted upside-down using a T-joint. It has also been repainted, with some parts having the wrong colour on it such as the front wheels which should be white, and the engine could do with a lick of paint too, which should be white. The quality of the paint isn't the best, so probably needs some work in future Fast forward to a couple of days ago, when I began to look at this machine in more detail. I removed the handle bars and bonnet to gain better access to the engine, which seemed far more fiddly than it should have - this seems to be a pattern on this machine unfortunately! This wasn't helped by all imperial fixings being replaced with metric bolts of varying sizes. With these parts off I drained the fuel, as on this engine the carb is mounted on the fuel tank such that the tank appears to act as a fuel bowl - plus I didn't fancy pulling old fuel through the fuel system when I checked for a spark. We bought this pump years ago and have never used it for anything, beats syphoning the fuel by nearly drinking it. Glad I did drain it though, I wasn't very keen on how the old fuel looked or the sediment that was suspended in it. With the fuel drained I was happy to pull the engine over, so I used our spark plug tester to check for a spark, and as you can see below it did indeed have a spark so that's one less possible issues While I had the spark plug out (and it was easier to pull over) I took the opportunity to identify what all of the controls do. I don't have access to any sort of manual for the tractor, only for the engine so before this I wasn't sure how everything works. This uncovered a couple of issues, mainly that both the deck and drive belts coming off the engine pulley are not being disengaged enough when the clutch is pushed down, so I need to make some adjustments to allow the belts to slip when the deck is disengaged and the clutch pedal is pushed. The good news is that the brake appears to work, along with the forward-reverse gear change and 1st to 2nd. This is as far as I have got so far, next step is probably going to be lifting the front of the tractor to get access to the belt tensioners on the underside of the machine and making some adjustments. I'll post again if and when I make more notable progress.

Slow progress, but now have a finished rolling chassis that I can assemble the important bits on. Engine was the first bit to go on- Still working on the chain drive and guards on the pump side, with the 'idler'- tensioner set up being the current challenge to design and fit- Clutch Lever has been a problem, but have now finalised the handle shape and will be cut from 10mm thick block of brass. Will also have a lock lever fitted- Lots going on with other things, but will try and improve update regularity. Regards

Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets- Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss. Regards

Very cool, great addition to the collection. I was just thinking the other day that things have been a little quiet on here for O&R finds. I’m certainly not having a lot of luck finding any these days. Glad you landed that little generator!

I've finally got around to updating this thread, and this post should bring it up to date. We fitted up the steering bars and pulled the engine over, however it wasn't getting any fuel through. We ended up pulling all of the steering and bonnet off again took most of the fuel system apart, cleaned it all out and reassembled the engine. There was no obvious blockages, however when we pulled the engine over again it pulled fuel through nicely. We then gave it a proper pull, and it went. The Landmaster now runs pretty nicely, it's quite loud, and the swapped pulley makes it scary to drive in 2nd gear but it is entirely functional now. Heres a link to one of my latest videos where we got the Landmaster running: We have had the tractor out since this video and it produced a plume of smoke, which smelt heavily of burning rubber so I think one of our new belts slipped a bit, so we need to look into that again. We are also looking into getting the correct size pulley to make the machine nicer to use, it is too quick for grass cutting at the moment. Heres a couple more pictures of the tractor in its current state: Thanks for reading, Joseph

Hi All, I am a new member but hope my content is of interest and may inspire others to use their Suffolk punch mowers. I am a fan among other things of Suffolk punch mowers with Suffolk iron foundry engine. I have attached a picture, both of these 75cc mowers are in use, the 14" mower will be refurbished sometime over the next couple of years, the 12" mower has been re-purposed so it has a new life as a scarifier which is what I would like to talk about in a few forthcoming posts. The 75cc iron engine on the 12" has also been slightly modified using my lathe and milling machine, more to follow...

I am making progress on my colt deluxe. Cleaned the carb out, cleaned all electrical connections and replaced the condenser. Got it running but have a fuel leak from the petrol tap to attend to before a test drive. Also been busy prepping and painting a loader to fit on it. 20241030_135437.mp4

A few pics of the collection.

Hope all's well Ewan. Clutch lever done and fitted. Cable was a B+*^h. Very tight job making it up from stainless inner cable and outer sleeve. Nipples made and silver soldered. Managed to retain lots of adjustment take-up on both tensioners- This section is now ready to go on the chassis. Still bugged with decision about fitting tensioner adjustment on the output chain drive?. Regards.

Here's my one in the display shed with the other O&R powered machines (amongst other things)... Paul

Here is her newest addition. It is an Aquabug with the electric conversion. I will get pictures of the electric later.

Have you guys come across this tiny mini bike called a BIG ELEPhANT? It was built in Japan and uses a Tas P7 engine or have seen one with a Tas S22? Here is a photo of the original sales brochure and it has a Big Elephant sitting on the seat of a 1969/70 Honda CB750 which probably dates it pretty well!

While digging around the internet looking for info on the Ouragan and the o&r engine ..... I was lucky enough to find this thread . I also own one of these cars That i bought from a toy collector that did not know what it was. Mine was missing the engine but over all it is very complete . I have located a o&r drill that will likely be the power for the racer. And i will now check the gear box for a number ! Thanks for the shared info you have all ready found. These are pretty scarce I may have found 8 to 10 of them around the world in my searches . some cars trade and go to auction with same number or decals . In 1966 these cars were $1200-1500 when new (a new mustang in 66 was $2500) 1968 Devillaine Ouragan Monoplace " Ferrari " - CLASSIC.COM This is mine after loosely assembling to find out what it looked like ( it was completely taken apart)

Just for everyone's information. I have uploaded the available manual in PDF form for the Hayter Osprey and 21 machines. It's in the orange header line marked DOWNLOADS. Engine data will need to be obtained from the B&S website. Regards

Where abouts in Sussex are you ?

I repaired the recoil, cleaned and gapped the points, repaired the spark plug wire and put a little gas in the carb and it fired right up. I forgot to plug in a drop light but I will tomorrow as I ran out of time. I will need a diaphragm carb kit, its stiff and dried out. B ut all the parts are there. Except of course the main jet.I don't think I need a reed valve.

6 months later now, and we have finally made some notable progress on the Landmaster. I might not fit all of our progress into this update, we shall see because there is quite a lot to cover. Paul kindly lent us his Landmaster so that we could see what had been modified on ours in the past, which has proven very useful and has uncovered things that we wouldn't have spotted without a similar machine next to ours. The first thing that we noticed was that our front axle was upside down. There is an arch shape in the centre of the axle on one side, which should point upwards. Previously our front axle had been scraping the grille when the axle pivoted, however with the axle flipped over it now has much more space to pivot. You can see the scrape marks in the picture below, and the amount of space gained from flipping the axle over Something else we noticed was that our machine appeared to have its clutch set up wrong. It was set up such that when the clutch pedal is pushed down, an idler pulley is moved away from the drive belt, removing tension from the drive belt and allowing it to slip on the engine pulley. However, from comparing to Pauls machine, we know that the clutch should be set up as a 'push to drive' pedal, where the belt sits on the other side of the idler pulley and when the pedal is pressed down, it tensions the drive belt and drive is provided the gearbox. We have now made this change, which required a slightly longer belt, so it is now up to an A45 belt. Another modification on our machine is that it doesn't have the cast engine pulley that it would have had from the factory. That has been replaced by a pair of taper lock pulleys, which are larger than the original pulley. The deck pulley is only 1/8" larger in diameter, whereas the drive pulley is 1" larger in diameter. This is not too much of a problem, as the pulleys seem to work with the size of belts that we have now We took off the rear fender to get better access to the brake band and the gearbox to make some adjustments. The gear selectors felt stiff, and it was difficult to tell when a gear had been engaged. All it took to sort this was a bit of oil in the 2 oiling points, and both selectors moved smoothly, with a clear difference between each position on the selector. The brake band just needed tightening a bit, and now functions as it should do. Finally for this update, we tackled the handlebars, which had been cut and rewelded at a different angle by a previous owner. Having removed the handlebars, we cut around one of the welds and managed to separate the handlebars into 2 parts We cleaned up the welding on the T-junction, which was pretty messy and rewelded the handlebars in the same position as Pauls Landmaster. Quite a while was spent with the angle grinder making the joins as smooth as possible, and we sprayed it with some zinc galvanising paint. Ignore the pile of Kohlers waiting to be put to use in the background We have made even further progress, but that'll have to wait for another day as my wake up time for sixth form starts with a 5. Joseph

The springs can go in and out so they just need to be set back in place as long as they aren't broken. I don't remember ever seeing a distinct clutch assembly drawing but there may be one on here somewhere, I just couldn't find one. There are a couple of different clutch setups so not knowing exactly what you are working with makes any details or advice difficult. How about posting a picture of it?

The wire should go to a kill switch button on the handle to shut down the engine by grounding the coil. Location of the switch depends on the model. One port is an air vent. It goes from the bottom of the tank to just inside of the fuel cap. The other port is the fuel feed to the carb. More than likely it will need a new carb diaphragm to run or run correctly. Check the air filter BEFORE trying to start it. If it has that old crusty material inside, it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. Otherwise it will be sucked into the engine. Not good. If you use the search feature you can find other threads on the Drillgine drills. Here's a link to the search results for "Drillgine" in topics only. There are threads on the early reds and later yellows https://myoldmachine.com/search/?q=drillgine&quick=1&type=forums_topic

Cheers Nigel this is what i did today after sitting back and thinking about it but hey they were a bugger lol.

Use a couple of longer bolts to pull the wheel together then swap them after you have tightened the shorter ones in the other holes

In 2004 I had 1/4 acre of scrub land to clear. A quick pub conversation yielded 2 scrap 8hp Westwood Gazelles; both quite early machines, one with the underslung exhaust. One working machine was the result, and within a few months it had done the job. I was about to retire, and had a couple of part time start up business's drawn up on paper, but knowing which one to go for was not an easy decision. In the event a third option was sitting in my shed. Post card advertisements in newsagents etc., and a pleasant surprise, or surprises. Within about 6 weeks I had a small grass cutting (not mowing) round, providing an adequate pension top-up, without any outlay. It grew into a 3 day a week business, and kept on going until 2018 when an arthritic knee finally made me stop. Fairly early on I built myself a see-saw trailer, which cut my loading / unloading time from 15 odd minutes to about 3. I started buying "uneconomical to repair" mowers, from a local mower repair business, and ended up with 3 machines, for different ground conditions, plus 1 that was lodged with the customer during the season. Coincidentally, they were all Westwoods, although other makes have yielded back axles. Yes back axles, you could sometimes build up a good one, out of two; not now, it's more like 3 or 4, to get one working again. Today, I have a mid 90's T1800, plus potentially 3 complete machines, out of my grave yard of bits. My 1/4 acre is now 1/2 acre, when a neighbour didn't take up the option of "his" strip of land behind him. I still enjoy mowing, as much as the engineering side. Regards Mike

Plenty of farcebook groups to cover that

The UK firm of Tarpen were distributors of the Turbair sprayer with O&R power during the 1960's. The firm also produced a Mini engine setup with O&R power that could be used on some of their tools. I have two in my collection at the moment, one on a Tarpen 33 hedge trimmer, the other on a cultivator...

Outstanding work as ever!

Hello everyone. I have experience in small engine repair (mainly 4 stroke) on engines no older than 15 years old. I know how 2 stroke engines work too. I have recently obtained an old O&R engine, which seems to be in great shape. I do not know what the engine originally came off of, it also has no markings on it with a model number (or any number for that matter). One question I have is about the carburetor. Every carburetor picture I have seen on this forum has a red primer button, and a slotted jet on the top. Mine, however, has no primer button or a slotted adjustable jet on the top. Instead, there is a non-slotted knurled screw. I am also confused, because my unit does not seem to have any off switch, to stop the spark. Additionally, I am curious as to what the single point is for on an engine like this is for. On all the modern engines that I have worked on, there are no points. I have attached some pictures too for you to look at. By the way, I have not attempted to start it yet, as I am somewhat unsure of what fuel ratio it needs.

I'm back!!! I have had a busy summer, and i am finally getting around to posting this. I have replaced the crusty old spark plug insulation (2 layers of shrink tubing) Also, I had problems with fuel system, so I properly modified it. (maybe epoxy isn't proper I guess) Also, because I have access to a mill, I can make a compex shape for a motor mount. I also have one question. Is the air vane governor guaranteed to work? I say this because I had it running today, and it sounded like it was trying to go pretty fast (maybe hitting 2000rpm) Now, I know that these engines can hit around 5000rpm idle, I just didn't have my tach hooked up at the moment, and I didn't want to risk any damage. Can I just start it up and then walk away expecting the governor to work first time without any tweaking? Also, should my carburetor diaphragm be kind-of wrinkly? I believe it is the original diaphragm and it has not been replaced. Thanks

Very nice display ! Paul

Hi there, Have an Ohlsson & Rice vintage tether car that I would like to sell. Images attached... No engine. The car is in good nick. Ping me an offer if interested...

Thats very nice I have one of those in the UK, will dig out a photo Paul

I do remember someone posted one that could switch back and forth from gas to electric but I cannot seem to find it now. It could've been way back on the old forum before we switched to here. Lots of that info was lost

Hello there new member here I've just bought a westwood ride on today I know nothing at all about these machines I'm told it was running last year when last used but that guy recently had major surgery and will never be able to operate it again hence the sale I give £20 for it yes you read that right 20 Quid I thought for that it's worth a punt Can anyone shed any light on these machines ? Places to look for info on them ? Places to buy parts if I need any ect Going to have a go at getting it running tomorrow

It runs

Finished making the (12) 6BA Bronze bolts and brass nuts for the Fan Shaft bearing/grease point housings over the last weekend and now trial assembled on the unit. All good-

Many thanks for the comments. Sorry for being quiet for a while. Have been busy when able. Lots of decision making on design and machine time, but seem to produce little visually. The Tank Cartridges were set up for drilling and tapping. Had to obtain a metre of 10mm studding to make the fixings, as they're quite tall- Luckily the igniter percussion inserts drilled out ok, then tapped both bases 1/8"BSP for the fittings. The fuel taps were done as per previous post, so then just the Air Valve to design and make. Shown in next image on the left- The left one shows the top of the reserve tank and the right shows the base of the main tank. Next job was the fan shaft layout, bearing housings and 'Screw Down Grease Cups'. I had the latter vintage cups, but had to make the housings for them out of cast bronze bar. Made a lot of work for myself milling to shape just to form the platforms to screw the cups into- Finished them on the lathe so that I could fit a short piece of brass tube between them as a seal against water ingress- Cheated a bit with these, as I'm hard soldering them to large flat brass washers to make the flange for bolting through and will match (in size, not colour) the ball bearing housings also machined from solid- So here is the basic assembly/layout of the fan shaft and now about to start on the sprocket mount and fan/blades- Regards

maybe some day I’ll see some

guess it would help to put the gas tank on. ooops! Good thing I looked at the pic on the screen

As best as I can tell this is a first generation drillgine with the O&R type 100 3/4hp engine (serial 013352). I bought this drill a while back. It was seized up tight. I tried my best to save this one. It sat in my heated ultrasonic for three days vibrating away. I even went to the extent of putting the crankcase in my lathe to cut the cylinder off to save the piston and rod. Sadly the engine was too far gone and it was not meant to be. When my parting tool grabbed the port on the steel liner the crankcase got pulled out of the chuck on my lathe and bye bye went the crankcase. I was able to save the crankshaft from this mess. I am not going to get around to this project anytime soon so I figured I would offer it up for parts should someone be needing them for their drillgine, or if someone wanted to be ambitious and rebuild this one. I did find one repair on the drill which actually looks well done. The drill case has been tig welded up and someone added a little bent steel bracket to better support the handle. I realize this is not in great shape, and I am not looking to get rich on it. I will ship this drill anywhere in the USA. Please send me a private message if interested with your offer. Thanks Chris

The Tarpen Flex attachments aren't too hard to find, apart from certain ones. Tarpen made PTO units to fit a lot of machinery that used the flexible drive to the attachments, the O&R engine & an electric power head are the only handheld versions. This is how I acquired the Tarpen O&R, it was in this Keil Kraft boat. When I told the previous owner I was interested in O&R tools he said he still had some of the parts that were removed to put it in the boat, he originally bought it from a surplus shop (which had two of them) in the 1970's. The only part it needs is a replacement clutch bearing assembly, if you have a look at the propshaft coupling you'll see the bronze bearing got brazed together along with part of the clutch. I'm also not 100% sure the clutch shoe assembly I fitted is correct but that was all I had. David

Those Tarpen tools are definitely cool and they look very well built. I'd like to find some for my collection but doubt there are very many out there.

Latest O&R/Tarpen addition arrived today courtesy of David (factory) This Tarpen Mini engine has been fitted with the chainsaw, and is seen here with another unit I have with the long hedge cutter fitted.

Is the Turbair box something you bought recently, or found while searching in the shed? I have a similar box but it's so mouldy it's kept inside another box, I did clean up the spare bottle that came with it & sent that to Wallfish to complete his sprayer. I've got no idea if the box can be cleaned without destroying it. David

Found this box and extra bottles whilst looking for something else (as you do) Now with the display

Nice! I've grown to like these O&R machines! Wish I could find one

Rain - what's that? 36 thou!!! - far too much. Slide the bushed components onto the axle one at a time and grasp them at 9 and 3 o'clock, if there's any "wiggle room" it's too much.