Jump to content

Morrisoft

Members
  • Content count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
Community Reputation
 
About Morrisoft
 
 
  • Rank
    Clinically Insane
 
Profile Information
 
 
  • Gender Male
  • Location England UK
 
Recent Profile Visitors
 
 
99 profile views
 
  1. Time for an update! I had to bite the bullet and rewire the ignition coil. I was able to dig enough away as per your suggestion. I then soldered a new fresh length of wire to them both. The longer one was for the new stop switch wire. Also got some new fuel line too. 2mm inside diameter in red, this wasn't intentional but suits the engine nicely. Rather snug on the tank nipples, no need for any clamps! May need to shorten the carb fuel feed as it's a little wedged in there. We'll see. Epoxied the HT lead base and stop switch and armature loop for long term stability. Really didn't like the way it looked, almost like Vaseline! Managed to sort this out nicely with a 'paintbrush' style black permanent marker. Also ordered a new spark plug shoe/boot, couldn't get them in singular form, so if anyone needs one, I'll have 3 spare. Shall fit this once it arrives. In two minds as to whether I should paint it fresh or keep the rustic original look. I had a spare spring and washer and, it seems functional. We shall see. Everything is now virtually finished. I'm just waiting on one last part for the carb now. Few more bits arrived this morning too: Any thoughts, or last minute things you can think of to check before it comes to running it again for the first time? Cheers,
  2. Quick update with things.. Yesterday I managed to finally clear virtually all the goop from within the petrol tank, the fuel nipple with inline filter unfortunately remains blocked at the moment. On it's third soak of petrol as we speak. The stator rewiring is now complete as per your guidance regarding high (thin)/ low (thick+thin) orientation etc. Many thanks David! Pictures are below, it was an incredibly tight fit once putting the two back together. I only hope the soldering is up to the job. How easily it will go back together, given the difficulty involved in getting it separated, remains to be seen. More good news, this arrived with many thanks to webhead for his help. Just waiting on the diaphragm and needle-valve/spring and this should be good to give a test run with a temporary tank, unless it does finally unblock first!
  3. Ah brilliant. I'm glad you clarified this for me as that would have been interesting when firing it up for the first time. Am i correct to assume it would simply have reversed the way outlets functioned if I'd wired it the other way around, making the 12v outlets 110v, and vice versa? Look forward to seeing the diagram, I can continue to replace/reinstate the wiring for now. I shall use different coloured electrical tape to enable me to identify the lower/higher voltage wiring as I only have black heatshrink and white cable of the appropriate gauge at the moment! 🙈 This is how things stand at the moment: I will clean and tin the connections ready for soldering to new lengths of cable. In terms of clearance I imagine the space for cabling, once reassembled, is slightly tight so I'll try to keep these as short as I can work with. Many thanks again David, you've been a tremendous help thus far!
  4. Would love to have this implement

    Now that looks brilliantly useful! Wouldn't mind one myself 🤔
  5. David you're an absolute diamond my friend. Pretty sure you read my mind with the pictures as I was going to ask if you had more. Fairly sure I can rewire from these pictures, I've stripped back all the crud and mess and gotten down to where the wires meet the windings as you'll see below. Some spare speaker cabling came to the rescue with the rewiring, so far so good. Unfortunately I only have lead-free at the moment but plenty of solder flowed nicely onto the two outputs shown below. Interestingly enough those two original pieces of wiring survived without corrosion or even the insulation cracking, still fairly supple so I've reused these as the copper was nice and clean after cutting them free of the old crimps. I'm going to use cable junction blocks to reattach the the two to the nipples inside the casing. Am I right in thinking the lower voltage windings clamp down to these? On the core itself I have two sets of wiring - both bottom leads connect to a thicker and thin winding, whereas the two upper leads connect to singular thin winding - I'm just hoping to confirm before final rewiring/soldering occurs. See below. Cheers
  6. Evenin' all. While I await advice regarding the coil (I have an idea - more on that later), I've opened up the generator section to check the wiring - sure enough it's a bit of a mess and heavily corroded. I am tracing back the wiring to where it meets the motor windings, I assume I can safely replace these lengths with fresh wire - should I find some that's actually corrosion free of course. The big downside of this coming from the Philippines seems to be the humidity and the wiring! So much for. Any advice will be greatly received.
  7. Good to know. Thanks David. Decided on finally tackling the coil today, I fear I've discovered why there is no spark though! 🙈 There are 3 smaller wires that come from the coil along with the HT lead that would go to the spark plug. Two are twisted together (appears to be intentional) and go from a small hole onto the bolt which holds the two parts of the coil frame together, these are not insulated and are visible above - one of the two had snapped off where it enters the coil. The third is, I believe, for the engine stop and although also broken and lacking insulation in places, feeds to the rear of the spark-gap assembly with the condenser and engine cut off switch. This one can be soldered onto a replacement wire and should be fine - the other two I'm not so sure about as the break is flush with the exterior of the coil itself and I can't see any easy way to get inside to reattach or replace the broken bits. Hope the images are clear enough to see what I mean, any ideas on how best to approach this one, gents? Also - my engine says 'type 151', I wonder if this means anything when compared with others that say 'model b' .. ? Cheers
  8. Ah I see where it goes now. I wondered where it should be in relation to the other gaskets. I have some Mylar so I'm tempted to simply recreate one as my old gasket would be a suitable template. Thanks for link regarding the o-rings David, will look to get some more closer to the end of the build. Just awaiting the spare bits from webhead at the moment, they'll be coming in two separate packages due to my haste in getting bits and not completely checking the carburetor prior to the diaphragm being shipped to me! Hoping they'll be here early this coming week - shouldn't take much longer than that I would think. Cheers
  9. Does this material have any specific qualities other than being made of Mylar? If someone has a template of one to scale I could probably cut one by hand with scapels. David, in regard to exhaust gaskets and their replacement, are these readily available or would they need to be machined to spec? Cheers
  10. You may be right - what came off of/from the carburetor is in the picture I sent previously. I take it the Mylar check valve is the plastic gasket-like film atop the diaphragm in the image above? If so there isn't one of those here.
  11. OR dynamite 410

    Cheers David. Nothing like a spot of bedtime reading!
  12. Just replied to the other thread Heh! I'm still in search of the above mentioned components for my carburetor. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Cheers
  13. OR dynamite 410

    I figured it would. Looks like a lovely purchase. Look forward to following the results. Cheers
  14. Morrisoft

  15. OR dynamite 410

    Hi guys, long shot but did this item sell in the end? Cheers
Premium Theme Designed By IBTheme.com

×