Jump to content

Rayp

Members
  • Content count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Rayp

  1. C 160 battery clamps

    Thank you all for your replies. Yes I do mean the clamps that hold the battery like the ones shown in the image that Richard posted. My battery tray also has a 'strap' at one end but one of the threaded fixings has disintegrated (on hindsight I should have tried to replace it before painting and reassembly!!!). I will try Halfords, as suggested, but may take you up on your Kind offer Richard if I have no joy.
  2. C 160 battery clamps

    Does anyone have some spare battery clamps - for some reason those on my tractor are missing. There are several for sale from America, but the postage is exorbitant!
  3. Hi,

     

    Given your expertise in chainsaws, I wondered if I could ask your opinion as to what might be wrong with my small basic model - I suspect it is the clutch but the limited paperwork on it gives no information on adjusting the clutch.

     

    My saw is a Skilsaw (Skilshop) model 1712 Type 3

     

    The engine works fine, the chain is sharp and properly adjusted, but it just seems to 'slip' and 'bind' when trying to  cut.

     

    Ray  

    1. HeadExam

      HeadExam

      Most clutches are self adjusting through the use of springs, so it is possible the clutch has worn out, removing the sprocket and inspecting the shoes would verify this. It could also be a worn sprocket, check the sprocket teeth, but if they look good it may be the clutch is worn. Some models have a replaceable sprocket if its just the sprocket others the sprocket is part of the rim and clutch. Large logs are not has hard on saws as the smaller green limbs. There are many places that offer parts, but eBay UK may be your best bet as it was a popular design not unlike many Homelite and MacCulloch models of the same era.

    2. Rayp

      Rayp

      Thankyou very much for your prompt and helpful reply - I will follow your advice.

       

      Ray

  4. Hello Nigel,

     

    I noticed when researching batteries that you can get them cheaper. I need a 12 volt 32 amp Hr for my C 160 automatic to fit the battery box and wondered if you could supply one or point me in the right direction. Thanks.

     

    Ray 

  5. Hayter 21

    Thanks again Richard
  6. Can someone please tell me what the points gap should be on a Hayter twenty one with a Briggs & Stratton engine. I have various B & S Manuals, but the points gap is conspicuous by its absence.
  7. Back Plate

    Does anyone have a spare back plate for a Kohler K341?
  8. Kohler Oil seal

    Hello Richard, Thanks for the information which is very informative as usual. I see the depth for mine is 1/2".
  9. Kohler Oil seal

    I am replacing the oil seal on the Flywheel side of my Tractor engine but do no know how far in the oil seal should be. The old seal was very near to the bearing but it may be that the last person to replace a seal pushed it in too far. At the moment the new seal is flush with the Back plate, but I thought I would ask for the experts' opinion as to whether it should be farther in or not.
  10. 36" Mower Deck Restoration

    Prompted by Richard's excellent posting I thought I would post the work on my deck. After sandblasting/wire-brushing and welding repairs the top was zinc-primed. The underside was Metal-prepped then treated with two coats of POR. I was unable to source small quantities of stainless steel flange bolts so purchased the nearest metric equivalent. This meant the spacers required drilling-out, but when I tried the first one shattered. A friend then kindly made me some metric replacement spacers. All the remaining bolts were replaced with stainless steel and a new Bar Idler Bushing Spacer fitted. I'm afraid I'll never achieve Richard's high standard, but I'm confident that the Deck will not corrode before me.
  11. 36" Mower Deck Restoration

    Thanks Richard - you are a mine of information and told me more than I already knew about my Deck. My Tractor (and I assume the deck) were made in Belgium and were 0wned from new by a family in Nottingham, from whom I acquired them. You also are right about the wheels. I couldn't find any suitable wheels so I sent for them from the USA and they certainly are robust so should last.
  12. Kohler engine spares

    Can anyone suggest the best place to get piston rings and gasket sets.
  13. Kohler engine spares

    Thank you all for your replies. I emailed Meetens, but to date have had no response. Subsequently I emailed Mike Hitchins and he replied the following day asking me whether I wanted chrome or cast iron piston rings. What's the difference, apart from price?
  14. Kohler engine spares

    Thank you for the Link Richard I'll try Meetens. The parts are for my K341S.
  15. Who are you with.

    Hello Stormin, I was with BT for some time and found great difficult in speaking to a human. In addition whenever (very frequently!) they increased their prices, I too was able to nbegotiate substantial reductions only to be faced with further increases within months. Prior to Bt I was with Talk Talk and they were HORRENDOUS! I am now with John Lewis and have found their service (provided by PlusNet) exceptionally good. Calls are answered quickly by persons who speak good English and understand the issues without passing the buck. Any call; is immediately followed up with an email to ensure that it has been resolved to your satisfaction. John Lewis prices are competitive and they don't offer the myriad of options which you could get from PlusNet. They are also reputed to be the last among providers) to increase prices.
  16. My Hayter 21 is very difficult to start. It has good compression and a good spark, but when it does run it performs a little 'lumpy' and the exhaust fumes are somewhat 'sooty'. I am currently cleaning the fuel tank and carburettor, but can any one suggest any other possible causes for its difficult starting. Also can anyone tel;l me where to buy Briggs & Stratton red engine paint or a near equivalent (preferably in a spray can).
  17. Just to let you know I followed all your advice regrinding both valves, decoking the head, replacing the plug, diaphragm and gaskets. The mower now starts easily and as soon as the new belt and blades arrive I hope to put it to work.
  18. Howard 350/300 rotovator

    My brother is looking for a rotovator in good working order (most of those on EBay are huge distances away making it difficult to view before bidding) about the size of a 350 or 300. A smaller Clifford would also do, but he does not want anything bigger or a non-wheeled type such as a Merry Tiller.
  19. Regrettably, I neglected to make a sketch or photograph the throttle and governor linkages on the top of the carburettor before removing it for an overhaul. I am now uncertain which holes to use for the throttle and governor springs and likewise for the 'wire rod' with cranked ends. The Parts Manual and/or Repair Manual are not helpful in showing where they attach. Can anyone please help?
  20. Another mystery solved - I'll bet very few people know that!
  21. Thanks Colin. I'll try and adopt your practice in the future as its not the first time I've relied on a manual only to find it is not very helpful. I've located the springs and wire as per the above photo but still need to fiddle as the smaller spring doesn't seem to be doing anything. Regards Ray
  22. Sorry Wristpin I meant to have thanked you for the photo.
  23. Thankyou for your offer Potash and many thanks Potash for the photo which is very helpful.
  24. Stormin and Wristpin, thanks again for your advice.
  25. Thanks for the advice - I'll look out for the Book and let you know the outcome of my efforts.
Premium Theme Designed By IBTheme.com

×