Rayp

Can anyone help me please with the dimensions of the above part or, even better supply me with the part. It is a shoulder screw (about an inch long) which holds the pivot for the Governor lever link. I haven't been able to locate one in the UK and whilst they are available in America the postage is astronomical (for a single screw). Also the starter rewind assembly seems to have space for 6 ball bearings but there are only five. Do I need six? I forgot to state my engine number which is 130902 0228-01 75091910

Thank you for the advice to check the sprocket as well.

Thanks for your reply Headexam. I have cleaned the clutch and replaced it but not tried it. I will give it a try and if the problem is still there I will have another look at the spacing with a view to replacing the parts you suggest.

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions. I now know how to remove the clutch and hopefully a good clean will solve the problem.

I have a Skilshop chainsaw model 1712 -Type 3 (see photo 1) and although the engine runs the chain does not cut well and slows down during use. I previously asked HeadExam for advice and he suggested it might be either the sprocket in the guidebar or the clutch. The guidebar sprocket moves freely so I think the problem may be the clutch. Having removed the cover I am stuck as I do not know how to remove the clutch for inspection. As can be seen in photo 2 there is a very thin hexagon nut on the clutch with a directional arrow and I do not know whether this unscrews or the clutch needs to be removed with a puller. Can anyone help please?

It just reinforces the view that everything is now about money and the way of the world is why sell a rubber bush when you can sell a whole new bracket!

Hi Richard - It looks really well made and I'm sure it will be better than new when you've worked your magic.

Thanks again Richard

Can someone please tell me what the points gap should be on a Hayter twenty one with a Briggs & Stratton engine. I have various B & S Manuals, but the points gap is conspicuous by its absence.

Hello Richard, Thanks for the information which is very informative as usual. I see the depth for mine is 1/2".

I am replacing the oil seal on the Flywheel side of my Tractor engine but do no know how far in the oil seal should be. The old seal was very near to the bearing but it may be that the last person to replace a seal pushed it in too far. At the moment the new seal is flush with the Back plate, but I thought I would ask for the experts' opinion as to whether it should be farther in or not.

Thanks Richard - you are a mine of information and told me more than I already knew about my Deck. My Tractor (and I assume the deck) were made in Belgium and were 0wned from new by a family in Nottingham, from whom I acquired them. You also are right about the wheels. I couldn't find any suitable wheels so I sent for them from the USA and they certainly are robust so should last.

Prompted by Richard's excellent posting I thought I would post the work on my deck. After sandblasting/wire-brushing and welding repairs the top was zinc-primed. The underside was Metal-prepped then treated with two coats of POR. I was unable to source small quantities of stainless steel flange bolts so purchased the nearest metric equivalent. This meant the spacers required drilling-out, but when I tried the first one shattered. A friend then kindly made me some metric replacement spacers. All the remaining bolts were replaced with stainless steel and a new Bar Idler Bushing Spacer fitted. I'm afraid I'll never achieve Richard's high standard, but I'm confident that the Deck will not corrode before me.

Thank you all for your replies. I emailed Meetens, but to date have had no response. Subsequently I emailed Mike Hitchins and he replied the following day asking me whether I wanted chrome or cast iron piston rings. What's the difference, apart from price?

Thank you for the Link Richard I'll try Meetens. The parts are for my K341S.

Can anyone suggest the best place to get piston rings and gasket sets.

Hello Stormin, I was with BT for some time and found great difficult in speaking to a human. In addition whenever (very frequently!) they increased their prices, I too was able to nbegotiate substantial reductions only to be faced with further increases within months. Prior to Bt I was with Talk Talk and they were HORRENDOUS! I am now with John Lewis and have found their service (provided by PlusNet) exceptionally good. Calls are answered quickly by persons who speak good English and understand the issues without passing the buck. Any call; is immediately followed up with an email to ensure that it has been resolved to your satisfaction. John Lewis prices are competitive and they don't offer the myriad of options which you could get from PlusNet. They are also reputed to be the last among providers) to increase prices.

Just to let you know I followed all your advice regrinding both valves, decoking the head, replacing the plug, diaphragm and gaskets. The mower now starts easily and as soon as the new belt and blades arrive I hope to put it to work.

Another mystery solved - I'll bet very few people know that!

Thanks Colin. I'll try and adopt your practice in the future as its not the first time I've relied on a manual only to find it is not very helpful. I've located the springs and wire as per the above photo but still need to fiddle as the smaller spring doesn't seem to be doing anything. Regards Ray

Sorry Wristpin I meant to have thanked you for the photo.

Thankyou for your offer Potash and many thanks Potash for the photo which is very helpful.

Regrettably, I neglected to make a sketch or photograph the throttle and governor linkages on the top of the carburettor before removing it for an overhaul. I am now uncertain which holes to use for the throttle and governor springs and likewise for the 'wire rod' with cranked ends. The Parts Manual and/or Repair Manual are not helpful in showing where they attach. Can anyone please help?