Wallfish

Check the air filter for old foam and remove it if there is some or will get sucked into the carb and engine. You'll need a carb diaphragm. Probably a tank clean and change the fuel lines. If it doesn't have spark you will need to clean the points contacts. It's under the flywheel and you will see the cover. Putting a few drops of old school DOT brake fluid on the crank seals will usually swell them enough to seal without the need to dis-assemble the entire engine to replace seals. A leak down test can be done by removing the muffler and attaching a blown up party balloon to the exhaust collector. The piston should be at TDC and the spark plug in place. You will hear the air hiss out through any seals that are not sealing enough as the balloon pushes air into the crank case. Even new seals will leak air but just a little. Mix oil and fuel at 32:1 with a good quality modern 2 stroke oil designed for air cooled engines. Outboard oil ashes off different and shouldn't be used.

I'll get a piece out to you Yes that's the same but mine is a repop that I built a few years ago. $1500 + is too steep for little collectables. Here's a link of the thread.

The 20A engine is bigger than the Compact engines are but I'm not sure if the size of the fogger part itself is different.

Very Nice Find ! Not very many of those pop up for sale I have one with a 20A engine but not one of those smaller ones.

I have some blue tempered spring sheet metal .003" I can send you. I was making my own springs out of it and found that grinding the center out with a thin cut off wheel worked much better than trying to cut it out. Then cut the outside shape. Just don't grin hard to heat up the metal or it will loose it's spring properties. 50" x 3" can make A LOT of springs.

Surprising that would break a spring. I pulled that one from one of my good carbs. I'd need to look around for another one if I even have one. . A while back I was making my own out of spring material sheet because they are pretty scarce now.

It's on it's way

It's a check valve. Make sure you can blow through it in one direction (Flow direction). It may be clogged up from old 2 stroke oil. If it's clogged you can leave it off

I don't remember ever hearing of a Ranger. It's basically the same thing as a Mustang saw except for the chain guard is a little different. We see those minor changes on lots of different tools that have different brand names but are basically the same thing. The recoil/blower housing is a factory replacement. That tan color paint without a label was what the factory sent out. I have a Chip-A-Saw like that one and also another one that looks completely different. Looks like this

Replied to your PM Can you post any pics of your saw?

3/32" fuel line = 2.3 mm so 2mm will work

That thing looks to be a great condition. The diaphragm in the carb will need to be changed. When they get stiff it won't prime or pump fuel. And clean the carb. You can follow the pinned carb tutorial. Shoot me a PM for a diaphragm. Check for spark. If no spark you will need to remove the flywheel then the points cover to clean the contacts on the points. Obviously clean the tank too Yes that's the engine shut down

I can help you with a carb diaphragm. Most exhaust gaskets can just be re-used unless they were damaged during disassembly. I can probably find a used set of gaskets

Back in the day it was Japan stealing the IP and now it's China stealing the IP. I'm sure there are also USA companies that did/do the same

That information kinda mirrors the O&R engines Screw from the back early engines Screw on from the front middle year engines Then the screw on starters about 1970