I’m trying to get a 13B engine ready to run and I’m not able to get spark. I cleaned the points really well and sanded the gently with 400 grit sand paper. I’m wondering if the condenser or maybe even the coil is bad. What should the numbers be if I use a volt meter to test? And, is there a recommended procedure to get the proper measurements?
As a side note, the coil does appear to have been repaired at some point in the past with some sort of epoxy putty applied to the side where the high tension lead goes into the coil. I have not tried to remove this yet and would like to test the coil somehow before going any further.
I hope you had a great Christmas. You’re an absolute genious on these engines. I really appreciate the insight and knowing the rarity of this one I will not use it as a parts engine. I would like to get it running and make it a stand-alone working display engine. For grins and giggles I just ordered a repair kit for the Tillotson. However, I’m hoping to work something out with Webhead on getting another HU38A carb that is in better operating condition.
You mention an incorrect starter being fitted, can you provide some additional clarity on this detail? Is the engine I have missing some critical starter parts needed to get it running? Best I can tell the engine seems to have decent compression and spark so I’m hopeful.
I did notice that the little pole where the kill switch, condenser and points usually attach does look to be missing something. There is an open blade/tab that looks like a standard female wire connector. I’m guessing this use to be connected to an on/off switch or something but that’s just a guess.
Looking for just about anything Ohlsson & Rice including: complete or partial Engines, use or NOS parts, tools that were built with these engines, manuals, parts list, advertisements, etc.
I’m about to dig into this O&R The Groomer and wanted to see if anyone knows how the fuel lines should be hooked up. There is an interesting little inlet nipple machined into the side of the engine where the mounting screws are located. Best I can tell this looks like an attachment point for a fuel line or vent hose of some sort. The little Tillotson carburetor has 2 fuel line elbows. I’m assuming one attaches to the fuel line coming from the tank but where would the other one attach to or is it supposed to attach to the little nipple on the side of the engine?
I’ve been looking on the UNI site and I think I’m now understanding that they are recommending just applying their special oil, to a mixture, to the foam filter. Sounds like it’s some sort of fairly thick and sticky oil that you massage into the foam- I’m guessing to help catch the dust. Then they suggest cleaning with their cleaner of course.
Thanks,
Clint
ps: I was able to find the Stihl HP oil (orange container) and some high quality fuel in a can that is distributed/sold by Toro (I think it is 92 octane). This should eliminate the potential of harmful additives and ethanol that is common in the standard service station gas around here.
Sorry, I mean to say “oil only, not a mixture” in my last post on oiling the filter.
Believe it or not I was actually on that exact eBay listing when your message came through. After looking at this one a bit closer I think I prefer the earlier style O&R engines best but I may keep an eye on this listing and see if it grows on me.
I think I’m going to be able to get my hands on a Mustang 149, hopefully it’ll be in decent condition. I also picked up an engine from one of those The Groomer trimmers but it’ll probably be best as a parts engine. It has the odd-ball Tillotson HU38A carb as well.
Amazing! This is incredibly helpful. I’m hoping to get my hands on a Mustang 149 and I don’t know the condition of the clutch and may have a line on these two parts.
Thank you. I’ll explore the options. I understand the piece-meal challenge. You’ve got quite a collection of great parts. Let me know if at some point in the interim if you might be open to a multi-item order if I come up with a list of items but still very manageable for mailing/shipping. Wish I was located closer to you!
Thank you David- you’re an amazing wealth of knowledge! Do you think these might fit the Orline Mustang 123 or 149 chainsaws? Sorry to hear about the Firefox issues, that’s always frustrating.
Ok, rats but thank you for letting me know. Unfortunately being in MN I’m not able to do a local pickup. Please keep me in mind if you decide to sell any of the used engine parts, tool parts or NOS O&R parts. I’m happy to arrange PayPal or other payment directly. If I ever get the opportunity to be in your neck of the woods I’ll be sure to let you know.
Does anyone have any O&R information/parts lists that can confirm the application for the following part numbers: A-125-15 and A-62-20? I think these are both clutch or gear box related and maybe for one of the O&R chainsaws.
I’m new to O&Rs but have taken to the addiction quite quickly. I’m just now seeing this post and thought I would inquire if you still have any of this stuff left and if so if you still have an interest in selling.
I’m still very new to O&R but learning a ton about these engines from all the great posts and enthusiasts on this forum. One thing I’m still a little puzzled by is how to distinguish between the 3/4 and 1 hp models when the decals are damaged or missing. Are there any obvious tell-tale signs or clues that I can look for, or specific model/types?
I hope his new thread lands in the right spot. If I’ve goofed again, my apologies and I’ll need a little guidance as it seems I’m in the right Ohlsson section when adding a new thread.
Thank you, my apologies for having these threads in the wrong spot. I guess I didn’t realize you could specify location - I’m still learning how to navigate the forum. Is there an easy way to move them to the right spot?
I think I’m going to get a small dental mirror to see if the fuel pick-up pipe is visible inside the tank on the carb side as you suggest. If the fuel line is all rotted I’m not sure how I’ll get in there. It looks like the bottom of the tank is glued on somehow so maybe worst case I’ll have to heat it up and try to pry off the bottom. Yes, unfortunately the recoil starter is missing. I may use this as my learning engine to do my first full tear down and rebuild. I’m anxious to see all the internals and learn more about how they’re constructed (can’t help the engineer in me).
Just picked up this Ohlsson & Rice Dyna-Mite, mainly for parts. I think it was originally an O&R Life-Savr generator but it is missing the actual generator section of the unit. Does anyone know what size cap might fit this tank or have a spare cap you might be willing to sell? Also, the tank looks very clean inside but I was suprised to see that there isn’t any sort of fuel pick-up tube that comes down from the fuel nipple. Should it have such a thing or is the fuel sucked up by some other means? If it is indeed missing the fuel pick-up tube are there any suggestions as a possible fix? Thank you for all your expert advice!
Ohlsson & Rice: Electrical Test for Coil & Condenser
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
Hello,
I’m trying to get a 13B engine ready to run and I’m not able to get spark. I cleaned the points really well and sanded the gently with 400 grit sand paper. I’m wondering if the condenser or maybe even the coil is bad. What should the numbers be if I use a volt meter to test? And, is there a recommended procedure to get the proper measurements?
As a side note, the coil does appear to have been repaired at some point in the past with some sort of epoxy putty applied to the side where the high tension lead goes into the coil. I have not tried to remove this yet and would like to test the coil somehow before going any further.
Thanks,
clint