DevonianRedneck

looking good, but like the fife plooman says a longer top link will help, when the ploughs in the ground, there should be barely any pressure on the top link (it should almost be floating as such) all the pressure should be on the lower links, ideally for conventional ploughing you need an adjustable right hand lower link so you can angle the plough differently when cutting in to when your ploughing normally

no problem it may tax it grip wise if not power, but its manly because if you had the frame wide enough to make useful ridges you would end up driving on top of the crop with the wheels. Your aiming to to straddle one row whilst driving alongside the other two, so your forming one complete ridge in the centre of the tractor finishing another on the left hand side and starting one on the right hand side.

been looking at a rotary mower attachment for my landmaster rotavator, however its missing the drive shaft, at first i thought id just make one up, or use the one from the rotavator attachment. but then upon reading the manual it says "fitted to the landmaster with special sprung drive shaft supplied" anyone got a picture of this so i can get an idea of what i need to cobble up? I assume it acts as a shock absorber to prevent engine damage from clipping a a rock or tree root when trimming. cheers Henry

It all depends on the width of the prime mover, on the ones i use at work they are adjustable on the frame for different tractors and task, for example, a three body ridger is typically set up with one body central to the tractor and the outer two bodies following the wheel marks, you can google "ferguson ridger" to get an idea of what I mean, if planning to use behind a garden tractor, I personally would only use two of the bodies one following each of the wheels, because there isn't the width in the frame to allow ridges to form else.

nice to see them working, mine get there fair share but i never think to photograph them! could really do with 4wd on one of em, but to be honest just a set of ags on one would be a plus, its so wet down here you'd need a trawler to move logs!

you know, for lifting dashels! dashels a thistle, must be a regional term, my grandfather used to use one to remove the dashels and the docks from our pasture fields, cause sprays expensive and manual labour's free! you place the tongs in around the root and lever back on the handle, that way you get the whole plant and it dosnt grow back.

2nd one looks like a dashel lifter to me

massey man myself, as long as its a pre 2000 one, last good tractor they made was the 300 series/3000, not thats theres ought wrong with a deere,, but they do paint em green so they blend in with the hedgerows, when the've broke down to save you the embarassment! clever marketing stategy there! (though ! cant really say much as my work rig (MF7480) is currently out of action with a blown front diff and some seemingly un-diagnosible electric le problem! I miss my 3075! )

Can see the back of an SG 2 cab as well, other two look like a 7830, and 6630 premium (drove one of these as well on the same farm),

Defiantly a 500 series, a Coventry built one, earlier model, most likely a 590, but the 575 was similar in wheelbase, and what looks like a a JD 2850 or 2650 with mfwd drove one of those for a couple years at my old job, mainly on a hedge trimmer

love multipower, my grandad used to have a 35x mp, you could overtake cars on a downhill run if you flicked it into low! (don't try this its obviously immature and very dangerous! ) we used to use it for augering post holes because you can just dip the clutch when doing up hill runs and the gearbox will still hold the tractor in place while the augers digging, then simply lift up and drive on to the next spot all without using the foot or hand brakes.

cant beat a 590, hell of a tool, though the 4wds had the turning circle of the titanic, even got the P.A.V.T on yours, is yours a 3 stick gearbox, or a 2 stick?

Used to drive one of these branded as a Ransome's on a golf course, had a front mounted rotary broom for sweeping buggy tracks, a ball harvester, and a blade for pushing up sand traps.great machines grip like oxen

Matter of opinion, good engine if oil changes and general maintenance is kept up, but if it's not they tend to be unforgiving, I had two asperas thow conrods on Howard Rotavator because my partners never heard of checking the oil on a machine before use, the first one I let her off,after the second shes been demoted to a fork and spade

from experience no compression tend to caused by a stuck exhaust valve on an aspera, every aspera i've worked on had this problem, (cept one) caused by a small piece of metal holding the valve open, which at the time i thought maybe a piece of exhaust baffle, (low quality component?) never been a fan of techy/aspera engine's there fine if well maintained but don't tolerate any abuse well,