Petro Chug-A-Saw

[factory 483]

I've now had a look for both types of starter dogs and taken some new pictures for comparison.

The middle section of part no. A-139-2 measures approx 1/2" and the older part no. A-139 measures approx 9/16" (from the early Model L engine I have).

 

And here are the two different types of starter dogs shown on an early flywheel (from a Petro Chug-A-Pump approx engine s/n #14000).

 

And the same starter dogs shown on a slightly later flywheel (from a Tiny Tiger approx engine s/n #35000).

 

If the information from the 1962 parts list is correct then the starter dog part no. A-139 was last used on engine no. #015997, after this they should be part no. A-139-2.

 

If you need the later one (A139-2) then I have a couple of used spares, I don't remember thinking I would need many so didn't buy any spares from Webhead, as I said before I don't have any spare of the older ones (A-139).

 

David

[Bodger 5]

Hello again, I have now stripped the chug o saw down and the list of parts for that I require for that engine is as follows.

carb diaphram x2

pull start assembly 

I starter dog later type 

points

and a coil.  
I have had my second engine running today but it also requires a carb diaphram and a tune up. also could someone with a chug a saw send me the height and diameter of the fuel tank please so I can find something similar!  On another note will I need gaskets/seals if I remove the cylinder to inspect and clean out? thanks in advance! Andy 
 

[factory 483]

I should be able to help, is the coil open circuit or just need the perished rubber wires sleeving?

 

I'm fairly certain the vertical fuel tank has the same dimensions as the horizontal versions (oil tank on this tool).

 

The cylinder gaskets will probably leak if re-used, if you need to replace the shafts seals the only option is to use O-rings of the appropriate size. If you strip the engine down it's a good idea to use a large tray to catch any bearing rollers that may escape.

 

Have you done anything with the gearbox, they originally used oil which either dried out or leaked out, they eventually changed to using grease.

 

David

[Bodger 5]

22 hours ago, factory said:

I should be able to help, is the coil open circuit or just need the perished rubber wires sleeving?

 

I'm fairly certain the vertical fuel tank has the same dimensions as the horizontal versions (oil tank on this tool).

 

The cylinder gaskets will probably leak if re-used, if you need to replace the shafts seals the only option is to use O-rings of the appropriate size. If you strip the engine down it's a good idea to use a large tray to catch any bearing rollers that may escape.

 

Have you done anything with the gearbox, they originally used oil which either dried out or leaked out, they eventually changed to using grease.

 

David

Hello David,  the coil is open circuit sadly. That’s ideal, I will find a similar tank or oil can etc. Are the cylinder seals available anywhere? and I can find o-rings for the crank no bother. The gearbox is all that I have left on that engine at the moment but I will be popping the cover off and cleaning it out and filling with liquid grease or similar. Also have noticed that both engines have a fair bit of end float on the cranks. Is this normal or should I shim them. Thanks for the help so far! 
Andy 

[factory 483]

That's a shame about the coil as they rarely fail, I've had the wire break inside the insulation before.

For reference, I checked the older style coil on my Chug-A-Saw, it measures approx 2.4kΩ, from memory the later style coils (made by Phelon) measure much higher at around 6kΩ.

 

Here are some pictures of the vertical gas/fuel tank used on the Chug-A-Saw, it is the same size as the oil tank.

 

I was going to suggest making a tank using coffee tins, but they are slightly bigger in diameter and won't fit the space available.

 

David

[factory 483]

The cylinder/exhaust collector gaskets are only found as new-old-stock, I have been making my own using modern gasket sheet and a set of punches.The O-ring cylinder seal can be replaced with a modern one.

 

The end float on the crankshaft is fairly normal for these engines.

 

I've still got to locate a coil, the spares engine the starter came from is missing this and a few other bits.

Thanks for the picture showing the serial number, I can confirm the A-139-2 is the correct starter dog, this type was first used with the A-47-10 flywheel after serial number 015997 and for all later flywheels (except for the much later Series 13B & 20A engines).

 

Which points parts do you need? I'm assuming something broke as they normally just need cleaning & the gap re-setting.

There is one part no-one has mentioned that I cannot see on your engine (it's also missing from my Chug-A-Saw engine), that is the governor vane, do you need one of those?

 

David

[Wallfish 691]

Fuel tank?

 

 

 

Or maybe find a can of something to use as one. Something like this? Or the top can be cut off with one of the rim cut openers and solder it on to a taller can of the same diameter?

 

[Bodger 5]

59 minutes ago, Wallfish said:

Fuel tank?

 

 

 

Or maybe find a can of something to use as one. Something like this? Or the top can be cut off with one of the rim cut openers and solder it on to a taller can of the same diameter?

 

The tank in the pic is the short one that came with the second engine I bought. It is a short one which I could use temporerily but will try and find something similar to the original for the saw which David has kindly put the measurement for me. I am sure I can find something like in your pic easily enough. Thanks Andy 

[Bodger 5]

5 hours ago, factory said:

That's a shame about the coil as they rarely fail, I've had the wire break inside the insulation before.

For reference, I checked the older style coil on my Chug-A-Saw, it measures approx 2.4kΩ, from memory the later style coils (made by Phelon) measure much higher at around 6kΩ.

 

Here are some pictures of the vertical gas/fuel tank used on the Chug-A-Saw, it is the same size as the oil tank.

 

I was going to suggest making a tank using coffee tins, but they are slightly bigger in diameter and won't fit the space available.

 

David

Hello David. I will double check the coil in case I was having a moment when I checked it! Points wise ideally I need the main section not the pivoting arm as the contact is missing from it, don’t ask me how as it wasn’t under the cover when removed! 😀. But the contact is pretty rough on the moving arm too so ideally a complete set but I may be able to use a contact from some different points if you have none available. I will need a governor vane too yes as it is missing. I can make the cylinder gaskets too no problem. Many thanks. Andy

[factory 483]

I've found a good used set of points, the coil is a problem at the moment, all the parts engines seem to have faulty (intermittent wiring) or damaged coils.

I'm going to order some HT cable and see if I can repair some of them, as NOS are unobtainium.

 

David

[factory 483]

Apologies for the delay with the coil, the cable supplier sent me fibre cored HT lead by mistake (totally useless for O&R coils), I now waiting for the replacement tinned copper core HT lead to arrive.

 

David

 

 

[factory 483]

A quick update of the coil repair, the correct HT lead arrived last week and over the weekend I have re-wired the coil.

 

Just a note the plastic of the coil is very brittle where the cable exits the coil (I accidentality dropped it ), I had to repair that damage first before I could fit the new copper core HT lead, it took two days to allow time for the araldite to set properly.

 

David

 

P.S. Bonus pictures of the bare coil being tested on a 1962 HP tube voltmeter, which got repaired while I was waiting for the new HT lead to arrive, I need to find some of those nice long narrow croc clips for the more modern meters.

[Josy 0]

On 4/11/2020 at 8:40 AM, factory said:

I've now had a look for both types of starter dogs and taken some new pictures for comparison.

The middle section of part no. A-139-2 measures approx 1/2" and the older part no. A-139 measures approx 9/16" (from the early Model L engine I have).

 

And here are the two different types of starter dogs shown on an early flywheel (from a Petro Chug-A-Pump approx engine s/n #14000).

 

And the same starter dogs shown on a slightly later flywheel (from a Tiny Tiger approx engine s/n #35000).

 

If the information from the 1962 parts list is correct then the starter dog part no. A-139 was last used on engine no. #015997, after this they should be part no. A-139-2.

 

If you need the later one (A139-2) then I have a couple of used spares, I don't remember thinking I would need many so didn't buy any spares from Webhead, as I said before I don't have any spare of the older ones (A-139).

 

David

Would you have a set of the A139-2 dogs forsale?

[Wallfish 691]

16 hours ago, Josy said:

Would you have a set of the A139-2 dogs forsale?

I may have a set somewhere. Are yours missing or broken?

I've repaired broken springs by soldering in a new piece of metal for the springs. Your location would be helpful as well. European members may find it easier and less expensive to find a junk Mustang chainsaw for parts.

What tool/engine are you working on? A Chug A Saw?

[Josy 0]

Hi, I have 1 broken and 1 missing. The tip with the slight bend has broken off and missing. No here is the interesting part lol, Im from Prince Edward Island Canada.