Tas tanaka

[factory 487]

Here are some pictures of the only TAS Motor I have in my collection so far, it's a type J-22 engine, I keep looking for one of the older TAS engines to go with it but haven't had any luck yet.

 

 

 

It also came with what maybe the original toolkit.

 

David

[CNew 404]

David,

   That J-22 is super nice, wow!  It looks like based on the orientation that it may have been set up for use on an outboard. I’ve seen several pictures, mainly from Australia, with some cool outboards using this style engine. There is a video on YouTube of one as well. 
 

I’ve also noticed that several of the screws don’t seem to be common metric threads. I’m missing some on mine and haven’t been able to find replacements, definitely not standard M4, M5 or M6 anyway...

[factory 487]

Yes I have seen similar engines on outboards, can you indicate which screws are missing and I could have a look at mine & see if I can work out the sizes.

 

David

[CNew 404]

10 minutes ago, factory said:

Yes I have seen similar engines on outboards, can you indicate which screws are missing and I could have a look at mine & see if I can work out the sizes.

 

David

I’m missing one of the small screws on top that holds the cooling baffle/cover to the head and then I’m missing two of the main screws that hold the crankcase cover together (see just below each corner of the red cover with the J-12 decal).

[factory 487]

OK will check them when I get a chance and let you know if I can find a match.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Excellent, thank you. I need to get myself a thread gauge one of these days... they have to be metric (JIS), just not sure why the standard ones at the hardware store don’t work

[H Killackey 6]

On my old TAS P-7 I had to re-tap the threads to a modern/today standard metric thread pitch. The JIS metric thread pitch of 60+ years ago are similar but not the same as today. Get the M diameter size and a new tap and chase/reform the old threaded holes if you are going to us new M fasteners

 

[CNew 404]

Interesting, good to know. That would explain things... thanks for the recommendation!

 

I found a seller on eBay that looks to have a few pre-1967 JIS screws, might be worth a try if I can narrow down the size.

[factory 487]

I wouldn't recommend rethreading them the standard ISO size unless you fit helicoils.

 

The crankcase screws on my TAS J-22 are standard M6 x 1mm pitch.

But the cylinder cooling baffle/cover screws are coarser than standard M5, a bit of checking & research find they are actually 0.9mm pitch, according to a 1941 book the French also used this size (the international standard didn't go below M6 then).

 

The later Japanese stuff I have here including the FMC engines, car radios and test equipment have decals/stickers or markings to indicate they only use ISO threads.

 

Hope this helps.

 

David

[factory 487]

A bit more searching finds a Honda service bulletin with the pre-ISO JIS thread sizes for 3mm (0.6mm pitch), 4mm (0.75mm pitch), 5mm (0.9mm pitch) & 12mm (1.5mm pitch) threads.

 

And a warning about stripping threads out if using the incorrect pitch.

 

https://4-stroke.net/data-archive/honda-s-technical-service-bulletins/no-27-june-1967-change-of-threaded-parts.html

 

Make sure any supplier/seller you find has the correct pitch before ordering.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Thanks for all the research David, this is very helpful! I’ll have to take another look at the M6 threads. Mine shouldn’t be any different than yours.  At least now with the correct pitch sizes I can start hunting for the correct screws.

[H Killackey 6]

Hello - I need the Pull Starter mechanism for my Tanaka P7 motor. I would love to have the engine cover with it or even the whole engine..... If possible. I need some parts help to get my old Tanaka running again -- 

 

[Wristpin 400]

This may have already been covered, but not only were/are JIS threads of a different pitch to IS0 but JIS cross head screws are slightly different from Philips or  Pozidrive, hence the reason that we see so many damaged cross heads on Japanese equipment.  I bought JIS drivers a few years ago - from Amazon of all places.

[factory 487]

JIS cross heads should have a dot stamped into them, this doesn't guarantee the thread is JIS though.

Just as many Phillips or Pozidrive screw heads get damaged by incorrect tooling too.

 

I have original tools kits my FMC kit engine & TAS J-22 engine, don't have any of the smaller JIS drivers though.

 

David

[H Killackey 6]

Hello - I need a pull starter mechanism for my Tanaka P-7. I don't need the engine cover that holds the pull starter mechanism but I would be willing to buy the cover with the pull starter mechanism attached. My internal spring's tab that retains the spring has broken off. 

 

[factory 487]

Is it just the starter spring that is damaged? and is it similar to the O&R ones with the ends shaped to fit into the starter reel at the centre & be held in the cover on the outside?

 

David

[H Killackey 6]

The curved end of the spring coil is gone. I believe it broke off at some point in it's life. I don't know if my Tanaka is a match to the O&R. I do believe the pull stater design is similar but I don't know if the Japanese Tanaka did a 100% design copy.  

 

Edited December 13, 2020 by H Killackey

[factory 487]

Have you thought about trying to repair it? I've used a torch to heat the broken ends of some O&R starter springs & shaped them with some round nosed pliers to match a good one.

 

David

[H Killackey 6]

Yes, That is the next step if I can't get another spring. I will apply a clamping vice-grip about 1" from the end of the spring. This will act as a thermal shunt heat dissipator. I will then heat the spring end to red/white hot if possible. This heat treatment will remove the hardness spring of the steel. It will be easy to form the soft steel. After forming the soft steel end heat will be applied to a blue color. This should restore the hardness of the steel to a spring. I know that one or both heat treatments will require a quench in oil or water. 

 

[factory 487]

I've had a search through the forum and can't actually find any pictures showing the insides of the starter mechanism or what the spring looks like. Would be interesting to compare but I don't have any of the smaller TAS engines.

 

There are some used P7 parts in France, just not the one you are after. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_armrs=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=tas&_ssn=vmp-58

 

David

[factory 487]

A new addition to my collection is this TAS drill which was a Christmas present, the engine is a TAS motor P7 but the starter looks a little different from the other two drills on here, possibly a later version?

 

 

 

 

 

David

[CNew 404]

That is super cool, very nice Christmas present. Looks like it will clean very nicely!  That starter looks a lot like the starter on my TAS P7 ice auger.

[factory 487]

It should clean up well, far too cold this time of year to do any cleaning though.

Do you have any pictures of your TAS P7 ice auger? I couldn't see any when I had a look through the thread before posting, you were asking about the type of spark-plug for it, this TAS P7 drill has an NGK B7S if that helps.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Here are some photos of the TAS P7 ice auger, it cleaned up pretty well. I had to replace the kill switch and make a new carb diaphragm and gasket, replaced the fuel and vent lines and the spark plug and it fired right up.

[JUST O&R 237]

That's a nice Auger I like the way the handle go all the way around.

Hopefully I can find a house soon so I can get back to work on these things . look great