O&R Tiny Tiger Parts

[CNew 404]

39 minutes ago, JDB44 said:

Ouch, thats one mangled piston!

[JDB44 0]

Yep, no noise just reved up then shut down.

[factory 487]

On 11/30/2019 at 1:51 AM, JDB44 said:

Yep, no noise just reved up then shut down.

 

You say it revved up before shutting down, did it rev higher than normal speed?

If it happens again once you've rebuilt the generator check the governor vane hasn't fallen out of the butterfly valve in the carb.

 

I had this happen with my first TT (Tiny Tor), the cause was the governor vane being bent in the wrong direction and it kept falling out.

The early governor vane should sit up as shown below, if it's more towards the flywheel then it's bent.

 

Note: the governor vanes vary a little depending on the age of the engine.

 

David

[JDB44 0]

David, I will check on that when I reassemble. Taking it apart I was not sure how the game engaged the throttle. Not a very positive connection.

[JDB44 0]

One thing I forgot to mention was I noticed the cylinder head was loose after it shutdown. I was able to unscrew by hand when disassembling. Not sure if the head needs to be torqued when reassembling.

[Wallfish 698]

David may have something for specs but I turn them down tight and then line up the little tabs on the top of the head so two are parallel with the crank. This can be a pain sometimes as they can get pretty tight before the tabs line up but if the tabs don't line up, the blower housing will hit the tab and prevent it from seating all the way on. Making a tool to fit in the slots at the plug hole works well to keep from damaging the cooling fins of the head.

The engine I'm sending will have a loose head since I didn't tighten it back down because you probably want to go through it. Think I can get to the post office today to ship it. It will come with NOS rings and some gaskets

[JUST O&R 237]

Not sure if this will help but I found this in some paperwork I have its for the 13a engines.

David will let us know.

service.pdf

[JUST O&R 237]

Also found this it may help.

cylinder.pdf

[JDB44 0]

Thank you Wallfish and Just O&R. This is great information. I have been looking thru my tools to see what I can make into a tool to loosen/tighten the cylinder head down with. Thought I had a plumbing type spanner wrench somewhere that would have worked.

[Wallfish 698]

David made a head tool a while back so maybe he can post some pics. You can weld a couple of beads or tabs on the side of a spark plug socket. A strap wrench around the head will work but be careful not to crush the cooling fins. Cutting and grinding a piece of 1/4" flat bar will also work.

 

I missed the post office Saturday so I'll put the engine and parts in a priority mail box with a prepaid label and leave it for the mailman. I have a hard time getting there while it's open.

[JDB44 0]

Thank you Wallfish. I have few strap wrenches. Should be able to get one of them to work. But I do think I made something out of bar stock somewhere that might work. Probably on the work bench.

[factory 487]

I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here.

 

The service instructions gave information on how to make a cylinder removal tool, there is a thread on here where I posted about it.

 

On 12/23/2014 at 11:02 AM, factory said:

Here is the cylinder removal tool I made, which is similar to the one shown in the engine maintenance manual.

The instructions given are to make it from a piece of flat steel 3/16" thick & 1" square, with a hole drilled in the middle for using a screwdriver as a "T" handle.

 

The piece of steel & the bar I used came from a box of offcuts & salvaged bits in the shed. I didn't bother to make it 1" square though, I only squared up the ends and drilled the hole for the bar.

 

I've since found it easier to hold the engine block using a vice (with soft jaws) and to use what you guys call a 'crescent wrench' (or adjustable spanner in UK) to turn the bar I made, I found the round bar used was too easy to bend if the cylinder was very tight, also didn't fancy turning any of my screwdrivers into banana shapes.

Making the cylinder removal bar longer than needed also allows you to file/shorten it when it wears on the edges.

 

Note; Never attempt to unscrew the cylinder if the piston is stuck from dried out oil residue, doing so can cause the con-rod to bend & break.

 

 

The slot in the top of the cylinder should either be parallel with the engine crankshaft or at 90 degrees to it, @Wallfish has already mentioned this and the service info posted by @JUST O&R also mentions it.

 

David

[factory 487]

On 12/7/2019 at 1:34 AM, JDB44 said:

One thing I forgot to mention was I noticed the cylinder head was loose after it shutdown. I was able to unscrew by hand when disassembling. Not sure if the head needs to be torqued when reassembling.

 

Service bulletin SE-063 gives a cylinder to crankcase torque of 25 - 30ft. lbs. but there is no mention of how they do this using the cylinder removal tool.

With new exhaust collector gaskets it should just be possible to turn the exhaust collector for positioning after the cylinder is tightened.

 

David

[JUST O&R 237]

2 hours ago, factory said:

I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks,

Hope every things ok. Sometime we need to do things for one reason or another. best wishes.

[JDB44 0]

David, I hope your absense is not serious. Thanks for the info. That tool is about what I was thinking of. Thought what I made was "L" shaped. Was thinking over the problem of torquing. Think I have an old 1/2 inch drive 7/8 socket I could grind a slot into to accept the bar stock and then use my torque wrench to tighten properly.

[CNew 404]

Great idea! If you come up with a solution post some photos. I’ve been thinking about a modified bar with a socket adapter too as a possible way to manage the torque but just haven’t gotten around to making one.

[JDB44 0]

Received the engine and parts today. Thank you Wallfish! Will need to look over engine and parts diagram to see where those parts relate to. Damn putting things back together is so tedious some times. Think there will be any issue using parts cleaner on donor engine?

[Wallfish 698]

Take it apart and clean the parts individually. Not sure what parts cleaner can do to those bearing cages. The engine rebuild thread and the diagram for the engine will help guide you but ask any questions if you need help.

[factory 487]

On 12/9/2019 at 9:00 PM, JUST O&R said:

On 12/9/2019 at 6:55 PM, factory said:

I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks,

Hope every things ok. Sometime we need to do things for one reason or another. best wishes.

 

I'm OK, been very busy and had other things on my mind following a family bereavement, I've got a lot of catching up to do now.

 

David

[factory 487]

I've moved the posts about the Drillgine parts to a new thread here:

David

[JDB44 0]

Sorry to hear of your families loss David.