Wallfish 697 #1 Posted December 26, 2019 Just happened to be on the auction site yesterday while looking for something else and low and behold this was on there too. The auction was ending soon when I saw it so figured I'd take a stab at it. Pleasantly surprised to win one since these 400 models are pretty rare to come across even though I need another generator like a hole in the head. Guessing it needed too much work for most people since it went fairly cheap for what it is. Luckily, I have all the stuff to make this complete. Hopefully didn't outbid any of you guys 1 pmackellow reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #2 Posted December 27, 2019 Good for you! I had that on my watch list and had every intention to bid and somehow I totally forgot when it was ending and missed it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #3 Posted December 27, 2019 That will clean up nice! I also was looking but I don't need any more projects at this time ether. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #4 Posted December 27, 2019 Good find I would still like one of those but getting it to the UK will be expensive ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #5 Posted January 6, 2020 Since others are get'n busy with their O&R stuff, it motivated me to do some of mine. Thought this 400 model would take an easy engine swap but once dismantled, I noticed the tapered shaft for this generator is about 1/8 longer. Never knew that and always assumed all of those short tapered shafts were all the same. SO, complete engine rebuild is in order. Got it all apart and cleaned up today. Typically I use gasoline and a brush but did this one up in my office. Didn't want the gas smell so I used Seafoam which still stinks but no where near as bad. Then used some citrus degreaser and it all worked out well. My office smells like oranges. Someone was in this engine before because it's missing some gaskets. Found a replacement coil, another gas tank and an exhaust manifold which is clean and shiney. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #6 Posted January 6, 2020 Cool, glad to see you’re back in action! That 400 is going to be really nice. I may have to try your cleaning ideas since I do most of my rebuilds in a spare room inside the house. I have a few cans of Seafoam, I’ll have to try that for cleaning... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #7 Posted January 6, 2020 It’s about time! Are you going to use the plastic bearings or change them ? I’ve been using them considering the don’t run much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #8 Posted January 6, 2020 @CNewIt's not as quick but works well Another trick I found for getting that old varnished horrible gas smell off your hands. Afterwashing and scrubbing with good soap, I finish up washing with a gel shave cream. It seems to do more than just mask the smell. @JUST O&R Yes, I just clean, lube and re use them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #9 Posted January 6, 2020 New rings, seals and gaskets. Just need to do the recoil, tighten the head, some cleaning and minor assembly. Oh, and a carb rebuild. Went fairly smooth today. Did learn one thing, sticking that thin little reed valve gasket in your mouth to soften it up works just as good as using gasoline. They will not go on dry so you need to wet them so they expand a little to fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #10 Posted January 6, 2020 Very nice, did you polish the back engine plate or is that how it ended up after cleaning? Good tip on the reed valve... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #11 Posted January 6, 2020 8 hours ago, Wallfish said: Did learn one thing, sticking that thin little reed valve gasket in your mouth to soften it up works just as good as using gasoline. They will not go on dry so you need to wet them so they expand a little to fit. Found that out the hard way now threw them in water before we try to put them on That's looking good I still work at a snails pace. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #12 Posted January 6, 2020 17 hours ago, CNew said: Very nice, did you polish the back engine plate or is that how it ended up after cleaning? I have a bunch of spare plates from ruined engines so this was one off the shelf. Think it came from the engine I just sent to JD for his blown TT. The dirty ones get soaked in a can of carb cleaner and sprayed off to clean them so they're ready to go for the next one. They can be a PITA to clean if doing them by hand with a brush and such. Not sure why it's so shiney but it is more so than others for some reason. I did polish up the exhaust manifold a little on the polish wheel. Those can be difficult to clean as well. The chrome on those is very thin and it doesn't take much to ruin one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #13 Posted January 9, 2020 Set back It was mentioned earlier about the tapered shaft lengths and the one which came with the 400 is too long. When I first tested it on the engine I was going to use, the 2 tapers didn't match right to lock the shafts together. As it turns out, the longer one pushes the generator's armature out, which pushes the rear bearing out just a little to far for the cover cap to fit. It was never noticed before I went to install that cover that the armature was not in the correct position and therefore would not match with the longer taper shaft. Someone was definitely in this engine before because the gaskets were missing when I opened it up. So now after going through that whole engine, can't use it. I'll have to figure out what's up with that shaft and why it's like it is. Certainly didn't notice anything unusual while assembling it. Now I'll use the more modern engine but after all that work it would've been nice to keep the old school style. Here's a pic with 2 tapers end to end. It looks like the shaft of the engine is out too far yet it will not push inside the case any further. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #14 Posted January 10, 2020 That’s interesting, is the original engine too far damaged to fix? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #15 Posted January 10, 2020 17 hours ago, CNew said: That’s interesting, is the original engine too far damaged to fix? The original engine is the one I rebuilt but that shaft protrudes out too far to work with the generator. If it was indeed the original engine, it came with it but that doesn't mean anything. I even opened it back up to have a look see and everything is good. I'm guessing that shaft is from a different engine but I thought the cases were all pretty much the same. I miss David, he always has the part # info to validate this kind of stuff. Hope he's doing OK 1 JUST O&R reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #16 Posted January 10, 2020 (edited) We where talking about that before in a post. the different cranks I posted a pick of a shaft with a short /tapered end but the one I had has a key way if it will work I will send it to you. Edited January 10, 2020 by JUST O&R Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #17 Posted January 10, 2020 Thanks but i have other crank shafts and another engine is already to go and attached to the generator. Just need to clean the aluminum plate it sits on and order some rubber feet which were missing to finish it up. When I get some time, I'll pull it apart again and compare the crank to another one to try and figure out what is going on with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #18 Posted January 11, 2020 Be that way just trying to help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #19 Posted January 14, 2020 It was the wrong crank shaft in that engine which protruded out too far. Swapped it out with another type and all is good now. The spare shaft I had is with the 2 key ways but that taper is the same as the others. The key ways fit with the old school clutches with the cork like pads . I'm just leaving the newer type engine on there and will keep the rebuilt one for the next project. 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #20 Posted January 14, 2020 That turned out great. Glad the crankshaft issue is worked out. Did you fire it up yet or straight to the display shelf? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #21 Posted January 14, 2020 I used to get'm ALL running tested and adjusted but they just sit there for display. If fuel goes through them the carbs will need to be gone through again anyway. Some possibly the points from sitting so now they just get cleaned and assembled. It's the old gas residue in them that causes more problems. The next guy can tinker and tune. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #22 Posted January 14, 2020 looks great!!! That's what I should do I get them running then take the carbs back off and clean out the fuel. Try not to move the needles or change anything. So there is two tapered shafts one short and one long and the keys don't make any difference? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #23 Posted January 15, 2020 8 hours ago, JUST O&R said: So there is two tapered shafts one short and one long and the keys don't make any difference? The keys and the taper are the same. The shaft that was in that engine is for a different style engine and therefore it's longer. Plus it was only one side of a different shaft I believe. The other side was right or at least it works perfectly fine. I believe it's because the engine I have uses the plastic bearing cages and that longer shaft is from and engine with the newer roller bearing and 2 washers on the side. This is exactly where David always shines as he could probably provide exact part #s, exact measurements, which engines, DOM, ect. ect. That guy is incredible! 8 hours ago, JUST O&R said: That's what I should do I get them running then take the carbs back off and clean out the fuel. Remove the plug and add a few drops of fuel mix and fire it up. That way you don't have to mess with the carb again. Carb adjustments can be made later if someone wants to run it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #24 Posted January 15, 2020 12 hours ago, Wallfish said: This is exactly where David always shines as he could probably provide exact part #s, exact measurements, which engines, DOM, ect. ect. That guy is incredible! I will go along with you on that!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 697 #25 Posted February 16, 2020 Just some final pics before it goes back out to the shed. This one is pretty much all done too except for the little rubber feet. Just need to pick up the hardware and attach them. 4 CNew, factory, pmackellow and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites