NOS and or Used parts trade

[CNew 404]

On 1/28/2020 at 6:18 PM, Wallfish said:

NOS gaskets are in the box I sent you with the vertical tank you needed. Also sent a piece of the baking paper I have. it's even the right color but might be too thin.

 

John,

 I got in late last night from a business trip and saw a package I think is the goody box from you. I’ll check it out this evening and get back to you on the tank.  I’ll also try to get all the gasket paper stuff ready this weekend to get out to Eric.

[art faulkner 0]

I need the notched bracket that operates the govener  on a tiny  tiger generator,  the spring is there but no bracket. tks

[factory 487]

Can you add some pictures of the carb from your Tiny Tiger, they vary quite a bit depending on the age, early ones don't have the little adjustment lever for example.

 

David

[art faulkner 0]

It is model #111 sn #023390 the idle adjustment is on top of carburetor between diaphram  and motor, it is a small spring loaded lever that adjusts  the govenor, located on the side of the carburetor,  the serial # of the power unit is 07461, the

unit  runs fine, and generates but need to control rpm, tks 

[CNew 404]

I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of those governor arms by itself as a spare part, although I’m sure they were sold that way at one point in time.  Or, you could maybe consider a setup kind of like this. I have an engine that has a small throttle linkage in place of the arm, probably from some sort of R/C application. You could do this and add a cable or arm to control the throttle.

[art faulkner 0]

good idea, bought this tiny tiger 8 years ago for $50 , it has the original box and paper work(not prime condition) I may buy a junk unit to get the arm. the other thing that concerns me, since there is no voltage regulator, rpms control the voltage? the instructions say to hook up to 300 watt light bulb and adjust the idle screw to maintain that value. tks

[factory 487]

16 hours ago, art faulkner said:

It is model #111 sn #023390 the idle adjustment is on top of carburetor between diaphram  and motor, it is a small spring loaded lever that adjusts  the govenor, located on the side of the carburetor,  the serial # of the power unit is 07461, the

unit  runs fine, and generates but need to control rpm, tks 

 

Earlier engines fitted to Tiny Tigers such as yours (#023390) & mine (#036839, picture of carb attached) don't have the governor adjustment control lever. If you want to add this then searching for a later carb is the only answer,  just be aware there are two different springs used over the years depending on the governor vane size.

 

5 hours ago, art faulkner said:

the other thing that concerns me, since there is no voltage regulator, rpms control the voltage? the instructions say to hook up to 300 watt light bulb and adjust the idle screw to maintain that value. tks

That part with the 300 Watt load is to set the needle valve, not the idle stop screw.

 

David

[art faulkner 0]

I do not understand how the  governor vane works. the flywheel vanes produce a air stream that engages the governor vane  and activates the throttle via the spring(rod) this appears to be a fixed and nonadjustable value. so if I set the needle valve at the 300 watt value, how does the governor vane function in this situation. My guess is at some rpm value the governor would be static and if the motor loads up , the air flow to the vane would drop allowing the throttle to  open to maintain that value. tks

[factory 487]

Correct the early governor vane without adjustment will operate the engine at a fixed speed. As a consequence if the generator only has a small load then the voltage will be a higher than with a full load, this won't bother equipment designed to operate over a wider voltage range (check appliance labels), but will shorten the life of filament lamps due to the higher voltage (they will run brighter though).

 

David

[art faulkner 0]

seems like the tiger is operating  at full rpm 6300  and voltage at 135 plus, ether the vane is not working or is this normal? I put a pin in the governor at the carburetor and blocked it to reduce rpm and reduce voltage. I notice a weep of fuel at the edge of the metal plate inserted in the bottom of the  aluminum fuel tank, should I seal it in place or knock the bottom out via the fuel inlet and reseal., If you have a chance check youtube RADIAL 1941 LYCOMING ,its me starting R-680 airplane engine tks art

[CNew 404]

If you don’t want to take the tank apart you might be able to use a gas tank sealer just on the bottom around the seams (inside the tank).  I’ve thought about using something like POR-15 but opted to take the tank apart instead.You have to heat it with a torch to free up the old epoxy seal and it will likely ruin the filter intake. Take a look at my thread on the gas tank repair. I plan to seal if back up with Hondabond (same as Yamabond).

[art faulkner 0]

tks for all the info any idea when these were built  based on the serial number or model

[factory 487]

Going by the engine serial number (#023390) your engine was made sometime towards the latter end of 1962.

 

On 7/25/2020 at 12:46 AM, art faulkner said:

seems like the tiger is operating  at full rpm 6300  and voltage at 135 plus, ether the vane is not working or is this normal?

 

That seems fine if there is no load on the generator, you quickly get to know if the vane isn't working as the engine will runaway at a silly speed & eventually overheat, I had this problem with a governor vane that kept falling out of the hole in the carb butterfly.

 

David

[art faulkner 0]

tks I took a 5/8" flat bottom rod and gently taped out bottom of tank plate,(went through fuel nozzle) it came out very easily with no distortion, there was no rust, scraped and wire brush the groove on tank and plate ,ready to bond.  the fuel filter had fallen off years ago and had installed a inline fuel filter outside of tank( more logical) Do you recommend using the new 2 stroke oil or the 30wt in the fuel? Any special reason you recommend  honda bond?tks for all your help, O@R not my primary interest, if your ever interested in my stuff , fwill offer a good deal

[CNew 404]

Glad yours came out so easy, none of mine have ever been like that. Not many gasket seal materials are good for fuel. The Yamabond and Hondabond have been recommended for this. I just sealed up a tank with Hondabond and in a quick test it seemed to hold fuel and no leaks.

[factory 487]

1 hour ago, art faulkner said:

Do you recommend using the new 2 stroke oil or the 30wt in the fuel?

 

I added the recommended fuel mix to the end of second post in the carb rebuild "sticky" thread.

https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1448-o-r-carb-repair-tutorial/

 

David

[factory 487]

2 hours ago, art faulkner said:

Any special reason you recommend  honda bond?tks for all your help,

 

Other brands that are available include ThreeBond, Seal-All and Motoseal.

Another thread on base tank repair;

 

David

[art faulkner 0]

Is the brass adjustment screw on the carb the needle valve to adjust the voltage with the  300 watt bulb? and the screw on the  motor side the idle adjustment, this screw appears to control the rpm, I am confused about how ,these two adjustments interact. If ytks artou could explain the function of each

[factory 487]

Yes the brass adjustment screw is the needle valve for setting the carb fuel/air mix and it is normally adjusted with a full load.

 

The two holes on the other side of the carb are for the idle screw (top one) and the optional throttle cable (bottom one).

The idle screw is for setting the idle speed for engines fitted with a clutch (around 2200 to 2500 RPM. according to the service manual), this generator doesn't have a clutch.

 

Maybe if you want to run smaller load you could set the carb up as normal with the 300 watt load and add a throttle cable to the lower hole, to set the voltage for a smaller load.

 

David

[rbcfab 9]

Hello all. Very interesting forum. Lots of valuable info.

 

Have a Tiny Tiger generator that I bought at a garage sale years ago that I have started to take apart and clean. Between ingesting the foam filter and having mix gas left in it, there has been quite the mess to clean up. I have it totally apart and clean but had a casualty or two. I am looking for a carb lever spring and possibly a points push rod. I see from another thread that I need to PM another member for a carb diaphragm.

 

The spring was embedded in the oil/varnish mix and was mostly eaten away. After soaking the assembly in an ultrasonic cleaner, I finished the part off with an inspection pick.

 

The push rod was my own fault as I didn't remove the points cover before trying to separate that housing from the crankcase which broke the rod. I can make a new push rod if needed. It looks like .125" OD garolite(bakelite) rod to me. Pretty easy to find.

 

Any particular direction I should look in?

 

Thanks,

Robert

[CNew 404]

Here is a points push rod:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362975352520?hash=item54830456c8:g:9QgAAOSwG5ZenZUz

 

And a complete carburetor gasket and diaphragm kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114353640518?hash=item1aa0021446:g:1zoAAOSwIGhgOwOk

 

The carb lever springs are much harder to come by. Wallfish was able to replicate one pretty well.  I’ll take a look in my spares and see if I might have an extra used spring. If you can find some thin gauge spring steel, like from a feeler gauge or something maybe you can cut one with tin snips.

 

[rbcfab 9]

Thanks for the links. I haven't dug around much on Ebay for parts. Looks like I need to. Will need to get one of those gasket sets for the diaphragm. My other pieces seem fine but would like to replace the plastic check valve also.

 

Think I'll try my luck with making the rod. I have some other things to order from McMaster.

 

I hadn't seen that thread on the springs but had the same thought about cutting one out of 1095 spring steel material. My original pieces measure about .004". I have access to a 40w laser as well. Not sure if it will cut shim material or not. Should at least make a nice pattern to trace using dykem.

 

Robert

 

 

[factory 487]

18 hours ago, rbcfab said:

The push rod was my own fault as I didn't remove the points cover before trying to separate that housing from the crankcase which broke the rod. I can make a new push rod if needed. It looks like .125" OD garolite(bakelite) rod to me. Pretty easy to find.

 

 

The breaker push rod is 0.837" long when new, O&R recommended replacing it when it has worn to below 0.8". I have a some of them too.

 

Is no one offering replacement diagram kits of the forum in the US? The guy on ebay doesn't seem to offer the correct amount of parts in his kit for later engines or have the correct thickness ones for the older engines.

 

If your check valve is made of the clear material it should be OK, older ones were the same rubber material as the main diaphragm & are best replaced.

 

Would be interesting to see how you get on the making a new diaphragm arm spring.

 

David

[CNew 404]

I still have a few diaphragms but not the whole carb gasket kit.

 

Never thought to measure the points rod, I should probably start doing that on the engine rebuilds...

[rbcfab 9]

David,

 

Thanks for the spec on the push rod measurement. I'll try making one out of garolite g-11.

 

I've ordered the set CNew linked from Ebay. Will see how they compare to the originals. All of mine are serviceable except the hardened diaphragm.

 

Robert