Jump to content
CNew

Ohlsson & Rice: Head Removal Tool

Recommended Posts

This probably isn’t new to anyone but I thought I would share a handy tool for removing the cylinder head on an O&R. A good old drag link socket makes a perfect tool for this. I have this one that is about 3/16” thick and 1 1/16” wide. 

8F858495-A1DC-41C0-AFB7-979F546373D0.jpeg

12283DF2-E9B1-4752-BAFA-9A356AD0838A.jpeg

9D0A34F1-54CA-41FA-8706-CD5B8E3A1EFC.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I was looking through the early service information (1961) a few days ago, I noticed something very similar for unscrewing the cylinder, for some reason the socket is described as being 3/32" thick, which is clearly wrong (tool #11 in list). :banghead:

SAM_6245a.jpg.54312f45934da061f4d9e84cf8d9e8c9.jpg SAM_6246a.jpg.a6896774068b2fd67ad3b76e49450ea8.jpg

 

SAM_6247a.jpg.6ba205e1c9edffdefe368fe1eb599640.jpg

 

The later manual mentions a different tool, which is very easy to make, I find a using a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) is better than the flimsy bar (or ruining a screwdriver as mentioned in the manual) and the engine can be held in a vice using soft jaws (to prevent marking the crankcase).

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice David, cool to see the original document with suggested tools.

 

Your version looks pretty straightforward as well. I was about to make something similar when I came across this drag link socket. Up until now I had been using a small pry bar, the width of the claw was just right but the angle was always just very awkward and made it challenging especially for heads that were really tight. Not to mention putting the head back on and tightening it was Less than ideal.  I’m looking forward to giving this new socket a go on the next project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is how I now use the cylinder removal tool, I found it too easy to bend the small bar I used previously, a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) makes it much easier to undo or tighten the cylinder, I use offcuts of plywood to protect the crankcase being marked by the vice jaws.

DSC_1123a.jpg.f680fd5af080ce4a796e186963124f8f.jpg

 

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice, that looks like it does the trick!  I have to use spacers like that too since my vice has rough faces. I was finally able to try out my new socket for the head and it was amazing, no issues at all and it put all the force and leverage where needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...