FrankZ 10 #26 Posted November 18, 2020 Thanks DustyB for the dimensions of the handle. I will turn one up and paint it black. Thanks Factory for the additional base plate info. Even though my base plate was missing, the original little spacers that go between the tank and base were still there. The machine screws were replaced with wood screws, but the spacers were reused. At least that is one detail I don't need to source/fabricate! I will try to locate those Palnuts here locally but that may prove to be a difficult find. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #27 Posted November 19, 2020 On 11/16/2020 at 8:45 PM, DustyB said: Just thought I would mention that the originals had a counterbore depth of more than 5/8", as this style of starter pull knob also had a spring hidden inside. I really should have used a vernier, it's approx 1 3/4" in depth. Of course this design is weaker as a result, hence they are sometimes damaged or missing. Note: the end of the spring has rusted away, it should close up where the cord knot is. David 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #28 Posted November 19, 2020 Thanks David for the additional information on the handle. Now that I study the dimensions I have more questions: What is the diameter of the thru-hole bore that the cord runs through? This would be the diameter at the bottom end of the handle that sits against the rubber snubber. What is the diameter of the counter bore that is approx 1-3/4" in depth that conceals the spring & cord end knot? This would be the diameter at the top ball end of the handle. My Tiny Tiger has the snubber and spring still attached on the pull cord. Just the wooden handle is missing. The diameter of the spring looks to be 1/4" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #29 Posted November 19, 2020 The hole for the cord is 5/32" diameter and the counterbore is close to 9/32" diameter , I've double checked the depth with a vernier and it is 1.75" (1 3/4"). Good to know the spring & rubber spacer are still there, a few less parts to make. David 1 FrankZ reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #30 Posted November 19, 2020 Any advice on how to remove this retaining clip without breaking it? The newer vintage Drillgine had a retaining ring that was relatively easy to remove and install in the blower housing. This I'm not so sure about.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #31 Posted November 19, 2020 The two folded tabs on the inside of the housing are striaghtened to remove the retainer, unfortunately they tend to snap off when trying to reuse them. New starter springs for the earlier style starter/blower housing were supplied with a new retainer for this reason. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #32 Posted November 19, 2020 I was afraid of that... Mine has to come out so I can replace the spool. I'm guessing this is not an easy replacement part to find... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #33 Posted November 19, 2020 Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought it just held the end of the spring in place and if your careful you should be able to lift the starter reel/spool out without disturbing it, of course the spring may still come out if it gets stuck on the centre of the reel/spool. None of this helps if you need to take the spring out for cleaning. The later starters are a bit different with the large ring clip instead. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #34 Posted November 19, 2020 David, Thanks for your input. If I release the tension on spring I think you are correct about the reel/spool being able to come out without removing the spring and/or retainer. It is currently still under tension so let me give that a try. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #35 Posted November 20, 2020 7 hours ago, FrankZ said: I was afraid of that... Mine has to come out so I can replace the spool. I'm guessing this is not an easy replacement part to find... Think I have some more. I gave up trying to replace them as they are a real PITA. There must be a trick or tool to get them in. Your recoil will work fine without that clip too. Frank, your package got delayed a day. The wife brought it back in the house from the mailbox thinking it was delivered here. Looks like you should receive it Monday Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #36 Posted November 20, 2020 Okay Factory was correct - I was able to remove the spool without removing that retainer for the spring. All I needed to do was to release the tension on the spring by removing the cord and letting it unwind. I then just rocked the spool back and forth while pulling upward and after a minute or two it came off. I will NOT attempt to remove that retainer clip. I'll just clean and lubricate the spring in place. Wallfish - thanks for the update on the shipment. I'll let you know when it arrives. I really appreciate all the help and correspondence on this forum. Thank you! 1 factory reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #37 Posted November 25, 2020 I turned a starter handle out of oak. Here are my dimensions and finished handle (except for primer/black paint): I received the parts shipment from Wallfish - thank you very much! I should now be able to finish rebuilding the carb and work on the starter issue with installation of correct dogs/pawls and reel. I have a request for proper bend/angle for the governor vane/blade. When I took the blower housing off for the first time it looked like this: That is obviously not correct. Luckily this vane is metal, probably aluminum, so I can straighten out the bent tip on the left side but I need to know where to bend it on the right side near the rivets. Is it bent on an angle or just straight from front to back, and at what angle should it sit in reference to the vertical cylinder behind it? I assume it should be around the 10 o'clock position? Once again your help is greatly appreciated, thank you. 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #38 Posted November 26, 2020 That replica starter pull is very nice, once painted I guess anyone would have a difficult job telling it apart from the original. The governor vane should look more like this (one I repaired on my very first O&R, a slightly newer Tiny Tor); Earlier version on a Tiny Tiger; And for completeness, here is a really early vane. Later engines had a governor vane that used a fixed plastic blade, in two sizes depending on whether it was for a 13A or 13B engine. David 1 FrankZ reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #39 Posted November 26, 2020 That pull knob turned out fantastic! 1 FrankZ reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #40 Posted December 14, 2020 Made some progress and have everything cleaned up and ready to reassemble. Can someone please verify the fuel line routing for me? One line goes from the port by filler cap to the other side of the tank and one line goes from the tank to the carburetor. Which of the 2 ports on the right side of the gas tank in my picture below (carb side) is to be used for the fuel line going to the carb? Thanks again for helping me get this going! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DustyB 8 #41 Posted December 15, 2020 Take a small wire and bend a small hook on it. See if you can feel the depth of each of these tubes. Only the tube that goes all the way to the bottom connects to the carb. The other two, shorter tubes, provide a vent to allow you to fill both sides of the tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #42 Posted December 15, 2020 The port closest to the center goes to the carb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #43 Posted December 15, 2020 Wallfish - Sorry not sure if you mean closer to the tank center lengthwise or widthwise... I should have labeled the picture. Can you verify "A" or "B" in the picture below, thanks! 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #44 Posted December 15, 2020 It should be 'B' in your picture, for the line that goes to the carb. Some pictures showing the inside of the tank in this thread (post #6); David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #45 Posted December 15, 2020 Thanks Factory for the clarification on the fuel line port and also for the link to the tank repair. I was wondering what the inside of that tank looked like! The screen and retainer were loose in the tank when I purchased my Tiny Tiger. I assume the rubber piece is still in place but no filter screen so I will put an inline filter just before the carb. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #46 Posted December 15, 2020 Sorry, see what you mean by which center. Kinda left you in the same place you started by not being more specific Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankZ 10 #47 Posted December 18, 2020 I made an aluminum base plate based on DustyB's picture provided. Thanks again DustyB! I used an old scrap speed limit sign I had and cut it out of that. Believe it or not, I was able to find locally, NOS 10-32 Palnuts. It was an all or none purchase so now I have around 80-100 of these... I was not able to find any feet that were close to original so I decided to use what I had, and since I have extra Palnuts, I used them as fasteners on the feet as well. Not correct as original, but it all matches nicely and I think it looks good... 5 JUST O&R, pmackellow, CNew and 2 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #48 Posted December 19, 2020 Very nice, that turned out great! Looks better than new! The palnuts are also a nice touch. 1 FrankZ reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #49 Posted December 19, 2020 Great job that looks really neat ! 1 FrankZ reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #50 Posted December 19, 2020 That came out NICE ! If interested you can make a rubber spark plug cap with Plasti Dip 1 FrankZ reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
