Hayterette push on

[Aldy 1]

Hello

 

Have cleaned the carburettor and am attempting to tune the carburettor to obtain a tick over speed. My mower has the plastic jet which appears to be a simple push on fit.

However when tightening the adjuster screw it reaches the point where the jet falls out Should there be a retainer other than the plastic and steel washers.

When the adjustment screw is open the jet is a tight fit. Would appreciate your views

 

[Lauren1985 6]

On 7/4/2022 at 4:37 PM, Aldy said:

Hello

 

Have cleaned the carburettor and am attempting to tune the carburettor to obtain a tick over speed. My mower has the plastic jet which appears to be a simple push on fit.

However when tightening the adjuster screw it reaches the point where the jet falls out Should there be a retainer other than the plastic and steel washers.

When the adjustment screw is open the jet is a tight fit. Would appreciate your views

 

What age is the engine in question.

 

Briggs and stratton use a Model Type Code layout

 

If the Code is 890202 for example that means it was made in 02/02/1989

 

Lauren

[Aldy 1]

 

The number on the side of the machine reads 015501 80100708. We acquired the machine 30 years ago  and it has proved to be reliable.

 

Aldy

[Aldy 1]

I have found another number Engine number 22485

 

Aldy

[Anglo Traction 978]

Hi Aldy,  I can't make sense of the latest number you've posted. Briggs & Stratton have 3 sets of reference nbrs on an engine.

The first is the Model nbr (mostly 6 digits). It is based on type. Second is the Specification and lastly, as Lauren mentions, the serial number which is a 'Julien' build date code.

These numbers are stamped into the cowling edge with a label next to them (if still there)

We have to assume the engine is the original one fitted.

I suspect the engine will be about 4-5hp, so the model number should look like 130*** and will be above the previous 2 numbers you've posted (or to the left on a Vertical shaft engine)

Once we have the correct numbers and identified, I/we will be able to look up the type in the manual for parts and procedure for you.

Regards

[Aldy 1]

 

 

Hi

 

Having looked again there are only three numbers

Machine number 224853

Model number 015501

Code 80100708

Hope this helps

 

Regards

 

[Lauren1985 6]

15 minutes ago, Aldy said:

 

 

Hi

 

Having looked again there are only three numbers

Machine number 224853

Model number 015501

Code 80100708

Hope this helps

 

Regards

 look on the engine cowling just above the exhaust 

Edited June 3 by Lauren1985

[Anglo Traction 978]

Afraid. there is still a problem with that first number. It cannot start with 224 on a B&S engine of 1980. a few pics of the numbers and the machine will help.

 

Have a look at this Topic-     B&S I/D

 

[Aldy 1]

Cleaned up rust area and found another number

Model No 94908

Type 015501

Code 80100708

Machine No 224853

See attached photos

[Anglo Traction 978]

OK, That is exactly what I need.

It's below 10 cu inches, so model nbr is only 5 digits. The last digit will be an '8' which refers to the starting method (Vertical manual pull). If it was a 3, you would have a 110volt gear drive start!.

I'll get back on here when I've checked the Service Manual.

  

[Anglo Traction 978]

This is the nearest I can find online. This link -    B&S LINK  should take you to the B&S website for Manuals and Parts LIsts.

You can either download and save directly or get them sent to you by email. The link shows User Manual (top) and Parts (bottom) Note - ignore the middle chinese one.

They cover variants of your engine, so look for your type.

In answer to your original question about the fitting/retention of the fuel valve,  I can only suggest you replace the part. If it is the original plastic, then it wears out after 43 years.

Just search using the B&S name and part number.

Regards

[Aldy 1]

Thanks guys for your help with this. Will replace the fuel valve and see if that fixes the problem.

Regards

[Aldy 1]

 

I have had a good look at there fuel valve photo attached and it appears to be in unworn condition. Still it falls out when fully tightened. Is this normal  and does anyone have a similar situation. If not could I be missing a retainer.

Not sure if replacing would make a difference. 

 

Regards

[Lauren1985 6]

40 minutes ago, Aldy said:

 

I have had a good look at there fuel valve photo attached and it appears to be in unworn condition. Still it falls out when fully tightened. Is this normal  and does anyone have a similar situation. If not could I be missing a retainer.

Not sure if replacing would make a difference. 

 

Regards

Is this the push in plastic type. 

[Aldy 1]

Yes its the push in plastic type. Ive looked at the Briggs and Stratton website and their parts list shows an identical part so there appears to be nothing missing.

[Aldy 1]

Photo attached

[Lauren1985 6]

44 minutes ago, Aldy said:

Photo attached

I find those difficult to adjust because there's no fully turned in point. I find that turning it all the way in while it's outside of the carburettor helps. Let me know how you get on 

[Wristpin 399]

If you can find the appropriate BS manual* it shows how to reseat that jet, but the weapon of choice is a Briggs dip stick tube. The slightly chamfered end that pushes into the plastic seal in the sump of its intended use, pushes against the steel “ bellville” washer of the jet assembly and seats it into the carb. 

* Single cylinder L head post 1981. Page 23.  Publication 270962-12/03

 

 

Edited June 28 by Wristpin

[Lauren1985 6]

3 hours ago, Wristpin said:

If you can find the appropriate BS manual* it shows how to reseat that jet, but the weapon of choice is a Briggs dip stick tube. The slightly chamfered end that pushes into the plastic seal in the sump of its intended use, pushes against the steel “ bellville” washer of the jet assembly and seats it into the carb. 

* Single cylinder L head post 1981. Page 23.  Publication 270962-12/03

 

 

It shouldn't give much of a fight. What condition is the actual needle in. 

[Aldy 1]

Thank you both for your helpful suggestions. I have turned the fuel valve all the way in outside the carb and it does seem to hold firm when fitting. The needle is in good condition. Will have another attempt at starting at the weekend.

[Aldy 1]

 

Having turned the needle all the way in the nylon sleeve outside the carb it did not simply push in to the carb but needed to be screwed in . This is now a tight fit and when undoing the needle the nylon sleeve stays intact with no movement. There is a small flat on the sleeve and I wonder if the position of the sleeve  in the carb is critical. Still not starting and fuel does not appear to be reaching spark plug, ie dry after attempt to start

[Wristpin 399]

If I’m understanding you correctly , if you have the nylon sleeve with a flat. That flat engages with a corresponding one in the carb body and the sleeve should not be able to be “ screwed in” when correctly assembled .  
Going back a post or two , Lauren asks whether you have the plastic push in type and it just occurs to me that you may  have a mix of a carb body with the conventional screw in assembly , and that for some reason that’s not clear you are trying to fit the later push in one ? An image or two of what you have may help.
Could it be that you are trying to screw the later jet assembly into an earlier carb body ? With whatever jet assembly you have , removed is the internal of the orifice in the carb body , threaded ? If it is , it’s not for that plastic jet assembly. If it’s not threaded, it’s probably got a step in it to engage with the flat of the later plastic ones, although , the early plastic ones didn’t have the flat and their carb bodies didn’t the step. If you can get hold of the manual it shows this. 
I’ve scanned my manual but have been unable to attach the scan to this post - I think because I’m no longer a paid up member  - that’s a long story that never got sorted out a couple of years back when the site payment system wouldn’t accept my payment and admin ( nylion? )Was going to do so but it never seems to have happened. Time has moved on and it’s not bothered me but it would be useful to post the occasional image .

 

 

Edited July 1 by Wristpin
Additional content

[Aldy 1]

 

Thank you Wristpin. This Is my mistake in that I screwed the needle in to the outer nylon casing outside of the carb and inserted the jet whilst the carb was installed. It only became apparent to me. that there was a flat in the casing when the jet was fully installed. The jet was not able to be pressed in without turning and now the nylon casing is fully stuck the flat being about 10oclock from the flat in the casing at 12oclock. Does this mean that there is a restricted fuel flow to the carb and will I have to try to remove the casing and start again. This being the case I will replace the jet with a new part. The carb appears to the correct one for this part. Photo attached 

[Wristpin 399]

I think that it will be a case of extracting the nylon bit and most likely starting with a new one . Probably not much to loose by screwing the adjustable jet screw into the nylon  and grasping it with some grips to pull the nylon out.  Once out , hopefully you won’t see any internal threads and you will see a step. You should then assemble an undamaged jet, the washers and spring into a new nylon , screw in the jet so that it just touches the spring ( not compression it) . Then insert it into the carb, lining up the flat with the step. Then firmly push it into the carb using a deep socket or similar - BS suggest using an oil filler tube.Pushing firmly on the outer steel shaped washer should expand the rubber washer and lock everything into place. Lauren has provided a good pic that shows the order of play.

Once seated you can gently screw the adjustable jet fully in , then back it off a couple of turns as a basic setting which should allow the engine to start.

[Aldy 1]

Thank you Wristpin I have extracted the nylon sleeve and ordered a replacement part. There are no internal threads. Thank you again for your help.