Anglo Traction

Only just found your post. There are several MG enthusiasts that have frequented this forum. Several posts on their projects. I'm sure your topic will be noticed at some stage. What is your location?. This will depend on whether gaskets can still be obtained for the engine. Many ways to reproduce gaskets of various spec at a last resort. Do i assume the original engine is a Sturmey Archer?. If so, can you post the info from the ID plate please ?. Regards.

The first thing we had to prioritise was the inspection of the Boiler to ensure it's design and the materials used are up to specification. We commissioned a specialist to carry out an initial NDT (non destructive test) to establish the material used, it's condition (corrosion) and the soundness of all the welded joints. The process uses Ultrasonics. All results came back positive- This gave us the evidence of condition to move to the next part of the process. Fortunately, we had the history of this boiler's existence, and even located the original builder. From this, we got even luckier, and found the original Boiler Inspector's details. No longer in business, but found his son has continued with the profession. So we contacted him and secured his services for the Inspection and Hydraulic Pressure Testing. Tested to 1.5 times the working pressure, it passed both tests. Current regulations that we now have to follow, meant that we had to scrap all of the brass fittings attached to the boiler, and add a second method of boiler water replenishment. I have had to redesign the layout to include this and relocate the entry point to the Boiler. Having been busy over the summer designing and making new fittings that will satisfy the regulatory requirements, I have nearly completed this part of the job. Image below shows the revised location (now below the water line) which accommodates both water supplies. One is for a manual pump feed through 1/4" bore pipe, and the other is an 11 ounce steam injector supply. I machined the manifold from solid round Phoshpor Bronze (including the 1/2" whitworth spanner flats). i've made the Safety Valves (2) to a 'Mild Pop' design which improves pressure release without the shock. There was only one valve originally. The 2 Valves act as a Lead & Follow, the top one is set to 80psi and the 'follow' set to 82 psi. These will now easily cope with the max possible steam pressure. I've also made a Glass Protector to fit the commercially made Water Gauge- So all the manifolds that fit into the boiler are G1 Gunmetal or Phoshpor Bronze (PB102). Not finally fitted yet, as more to do before ensuring all are steam/pressure tight. Next job is to cut, fit and varnish all the mahogany slats (40) around the boiler for insulation.

Just thought I'd share this project with you. I've been asked by the Museum Curator where I do volunteer work, to evaluate and recommission this for full working display and demonstration work. I/we have already started on it, and will take some time. The Atco Mower is a post war 17" model, and the steam power unit and boiler were designed and built in early 1994. In the meantime , here are a few images of it- The challenge I have is that it does not comply with current regulations, so I will have to make changes to the drive and boiler fittings. I'll also add some background to it's story, and who built it. Regards.

Not familiar with that mower, but have you been successful in removing the remains of the old bearing and race?. The stub axle should be parallel and clean with a shoulder close to the arm to keep the wheel away from the arm. The inner bearing race should be a tight-ish fit on the stub in order to prevent the whole bearing rotating on the stub. Are you able to compare it with the left hand wheel ass'y?, and have you been able to source new bearings?. Your saviour is likely to be John Cruse in Hailsham. Hopefully he can help you with manuals and parts. Here is a link- The Mower Centre Let us know how you get on.

Welcome to Myoldmachine, Not so busy on here, but has a wealth of info available. You may not have seen it, but there is a lengthy Topic on the Osprey etc in the 'Other Garden Machines' section, should you need any help. Yours looks in reasonable condition. If you need a manual, look in the righthand column for 'Files'.

Good machine and well done for wanting to bring it back to life. All the help you'll ever need for it is on here with the O&R enthusiasts. I'm sure you're wise to it, but being a U.S machine, the Fuel ratio needs to be aligned with UK Fl oz and Gallon measures to produce the correct ratio. good luck. May be interested in knowing which Manuals you have. I volunteer for a Gardening Museum in Sussex, and we have many Mowers etc, some we may require detail for. Regards.

There is a comprehensive topic on Hayter Osprey in the 'Other Garden Machines'. Link proved here- Also, look at the Home Page again and look down on the righthand side column to find 'Files'. At the bottom I've located a downloadable copy of the User Manual. See how you get on.

Hello Martin, Only just found your post. Sorry, I'm too far away to help. I may however be able to help with a 6 speed transmission if yours is not repairable. Hope you get it sorted.

Hello Tony, Only just seen your post. Afraid the dimensions you state don't relate to my faded memory of the chain size. I thought it was a 1/2" pitch (12.7mm)?, but could be 5/8" (15.9mm). The best thing you an do is match yours to a chart and order one. Here is a good chart example by a long established British company. Note:- 1970s machines would have use imperial sizes. Modern chains still use the dimensions, but in metric also. Pin size is very important and needs measuring accurately to ensure a good fit. Chain Chart

With all the hose clamps finished, they were checked for tightness and then several coats of Rylard Incralac Lacquer for protection- Settled for a quick way to resolve the prevention of water (rain) ingress. Soldered a plated brass hood to the original Air intake filter body-

Thank you for the compliments sir!. Much appreciated, My own worst enemy as far as detail and concept is concerned. Hope you are still enjoying the rewards of your Triumph Gloria. Had to compromise with the last hose clamp for the outlet end. Used 1/16" copper plate for it and had some 5/16" copper rod left over from rivet making for the toggles:- All these bits will be coated with Rylard Incralac Lacquer. Carb intake hood and a Spark Plug cover to make next.

Getting close to finishing this. Here's a few images of this project -

Have been laid up for 2 weeks with a pretty severe virus that's been going around. Nearly back to normal and have been trying to catch up on a few jobs. Having now acquired decent hose for 1 inch fittings, I drew up the wide hose clamp design and searched my stock for brass. Had enough for three clamps- Pickup end, pump inlet and outlet. the delivery outlet will need some thought. Plates cut and drilled:- Had some hard thinking about how to form them, but sorted it:- Found some 5/16" dia brass for the toggles in my brass scrap box (float arm from a cistern valve). Finished these now, but need more brass 3/16" whitworth screws:- A need for a towing handle was satisfied by salvaging a crank handle from an old Conservatory roof light. Had to dismantle and reshape it to my needs and make a new wooden handle grip, but all brass fits well with the project 36" in length (92cms):- This end needed all the work:- All these parts will be heavily lacquered for protection. Solved the waterproofing of the Carb inlet, so will follow with an update later. Regards.

Meget pæn Steen. Thanks for posting images.

Long time, no post!. Apologies for my absence, had to mothball this to deal with other things. Determined to get back to it, and now the weather has released it's wintery/rainy grip, I've been busy making square brass nuts threaded 3/16" whitworth to secure the 3/4" thick mahogony planks. Finally made a decision on the last drive chain layout. Went for direct drive to the pump. 9 toothed gear on the pump side, so at 2,500 rpm at the engine, 500 rpm at the reduction gear output, gives me 550rpm pump speed. The tech data for the pump with the full cam fitted which I have, is 80 litres per minute at 1500rpm.So this set up will run at 29.3 litres per minute, a comfortable rate for my needs. it meant I had to offset the pump, but not a problem really, and the outlet (elbowed) side will clear the edge of the frame when in use. Here's how it turned out:- Hoping to give it a once-over to check everything is fuel tight, and will get it running without the pump on. I need to 'run it in', as it has a rebored cylinder and new rings to bed in. I'll need to:- Waterproof the Spark Plug and Lead on the head area with a cover, which will also act as an engine cut out. Make Chain Cover for the final drive and oil drip collection tray below it. Waterproof the Air Intake/choke (not urgent). I've made a pulling handle, but need some wood to make a grip for it. So I'm nearly at the completion point at last!. Regards.