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Meget pæn Steen. Thanks for posting images.
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Another post from Denmark Previously I showed you my WW2 Zündapp KS600 generating set and now I'm back. It's time to present my Auto Union GG400 generating set, nicknamed "Panzerwürfel" - Würfel being a cube. Most of these sets (and mine too) supplies 12V and 16V, depending of if you need it to supply power to the radios or if you are charging the batteries. All german armed vehicles had one on board, allowing them to be parked in the battlefield with power to the radios without the main engine running. It's a very compact unit but still features electric start per push button, when connected to a battery. Mine as an early model, which were less robust and prone to cracking the engine mount and mine were defective as well. Dating is easy, as the crank is dated (I just love the effectiveness of the germans). Like much of my stuff I have absolutely no use for it, but it is so nice to have . Enjoy! /Steen
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how do you hold the center from unwinding when you pull the end tighter?
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wind the spring and keep pulling on the tail to cinch it tighter and smaller. Repeat, repeat, repeat until it's wound tight and will fit in the holder.
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I have to wind it up again. How do you wind it back in to the holder thanks.
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Hold the spring down with your thumb at the holder opening and pic out the holder with something sharp. Release the thumb pressure slowly so the spring unwinds slowly
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I have the spring wound up in the round piece that comes with new springs and I set it in the recoil housing but how do you remove the holder from the spring thanks.
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Long time, no post!. Apologies for my absence, had to mothball this to deal with other things. Determined to get back to it, and now the weather has released it's wintery/rainy grip, I've been busy making square brass nuts threaded 3/16" whitworth to secure the 3/4" thick mahogony planks. Finally made a decision on the last drive chain layout. Went for direct drive to the pump. 9 toothed gear on the pump side, so at 2,500 rpm at the engine, 500 rpm at the reduction gear output, gives me 550rpm pump speed. The tech data for the pump with the full cam fitted which I have, is 80 litres per minute at 1500rpm.So this set up will run at 29.3 litres per minute, a comfortable rate for my needs. it meant I had to offset the pump, but not a problem really, and the outlet (elbowed) side will clear the edge of the frame when in use. Here's how it turned out:- Hoping to give it a once-over to check everything is fuel tight, and will get it running without the pump on. I need to 'run it in', as it has a rebored cylinder and new rings to bed in. I'll need to:- Waterproof the Spark Plug and Lead on the head area with a cover, which will also act as an engine cut out. Make Chain Cover for the final drive and oil drip collection tray below it. Waterproof the Air Intake/choke (not urgent). I've made a pulling handle, but need some wood to make a grip for it. So I'm nearly at the completion point at last!. Regards.
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Maybe it's ground a negative wire to the case and the positive post ??? 2 posts are 12v. Do you have a multi meter if it's not in the manual how to achieve the 6v? I breezed through it but didn't see anything. Wish @factory David was still active. He always seemed to have the answers for stuff like this.
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Yes. I sent you a message on this. Did you get my thank you in the mail ?
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I think you would need to remove or disconnect one of the diodes. But I'm not sure. Check in the manual I just posted the link of above Did you receive those diaphragms yet?
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? I don't remember ever seeing 6v. Can you post a pic of it? Tiny Tiger Generator Operating Instructions Models 5001-1 & 5001-2.pdf
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my Tiger generator is labeled 6v and 12v. D.C. How do you switch between ?
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my Tiger generator is labeled 6v and 12v. D.C. How do you switch between ?
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Zaphod1930 joined the community
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Hi. No. I don't have that part. I sent a message with my address. Thanks. Bob
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I meant a pic of all the carb parts but I can probably find one or make a disk and attach it to a diaphragm for you. That little disk would or should be attached right to the diaphragm. It gives a rigid point for the little arm to contact to pulse it and pump gas. Without it, the diaphragm wouldn't have enough movement to pump enough gas. PM your address. (The little envelope icon at the top right of any page) Here's a thread I did a while back on a TT restore if you're interested. I also just pined it so it's on the top of the list and easier to find in the future. The TT generators are the most common O&R tool sold https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1439-tiny-tiger-350-restore/ Do you have this part? Some carbs use this instead of the little disk attached to the diaphragm
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Thanks Wallfish. Here is a pic of my diaphragm and gasket. The rest of the carb appears exactly as in the parts diagram. I don't see any disc attached to the diaphragm. I checked the thickness. It's about .009 inches, if that helps. What do you recommend ? I'm in Connecticut 06804
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Some had a small disk attached to directly to the diaphragm, some did not but had a larger disk part that covered the entire surface. Maybe post a picture of what you have. Depending where you're located, I have diaphragms. The pulse still comes from crank pressure/vacuum. But a 2 stroke uses a reed valve to control it then and it's right through the carb that pulses the diaphragm.
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I have a tiny tiger carb that I thought i had disassembled very carefully. I want to replace the diaphragm and need a source. Also, I'm sure this carb has never been apart before, but I cant find any sign of the diaphragm "disc" shown on the parts list. So, I will need this also. I looked very carefully and can't see how I may have lost it. Any chance that this engine was running fine without the disc ? I don't understand how this carb pumps fuel. The pump carbs that I have worked on usually have a port hole or hose to the crankcase and the diaphragm action is via crank case pressure. Other than the primer valve. What causes the diaphragm pump action while the motor is running ?
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I have a tiny tiger carb that I thought i had disassembled very carefully. I want to replace the diaphragm and need a source. Also, I'm sure this carb has never been apart before, but I cant find any sign of the diaphragm "disc" shown on the parts list. So, I will need this also. I looked very carefully and can't see how I may have lost it. Any chance that this engine was running fine without the disc ?
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duradad joined the community
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Yes. Anything to hold the rope as long as it gets locked on the spool
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Can I use a paper clip or is that too heavy
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The wire needs to be bent in such a way to feed both ends of the wire through the holes from inside of the spool out. The factory pieces resemble 1/2 a paper clip and the wire is kind of soft
