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  1. Last week
  2. expeatfarmer
    Hi Robbie I have a 420 and a 425 great machines. Does your machine have an electric clutch mounted on the end of the crank with a belt going down to the pulley shown in your photos? Take a photo under the bonnet and add it to your post this will show if it is a clutch or drive that relies on belt tension.
  3. Fishnuts2 started following O&R circular saw found in shed.
  4. Fishnuts2
    Looks like a fun project and actually usable when you get it running. You might consider a boot for the spark plug wire however!
  5. Wallfish
    Check the air filter for old foam and remove it if there is some or will get sucked into the carb and engine. You'll need a carb diaphragm. Probably a tank clean and change the fuel lines. If it doesn't have spark you will need to clean the points contacts. It's under the flywheel and you will see the cover. Putting a few drops of old school DOT brake fluid on the crank seals will usually swell them enough to seal without the need to dis-assemble the entire engine to replace seals. A leak down test can be done by removing the muffler and attaching a blown up party balloon to the exhaust collector. The piston should be at TDC and the spark plug in place. You will hear the air hiss out through any seals that are not sealing enough as the balloon pushes air into the crank case. Even new seals will leak air but just a little. Mix oil and fuel at 32:1 with a good quality modern 2 stroke oil designed for air cooled engines. Outboard oil ashes off different and shouldn't be used.
  6. Nick McCue started following O&R circular saw found in shed.
  7. Nick McCue
    New to me and looking forward to getting it going. Have sheds full of bigger heavier engines and have never really played with something this small. Have chased up wallfish for diaphragm and bits so we will see how we go.
  8. Nick McCue Nick McCue joined the community
  9. Anglo Traction
    Welcome to Myoldmachine, Not so busy on here, but has a wealth of info available. You may not have seen it, but there is a lengthy Topic on the Osprey etc in the 'Other Garden Machines' section, should you need any help. Yours looks in reasonable condition. If you need a manual, look in the righthand column for 'Files'.
  10. Earlier
  11. Brewerer started following New Addition- Hayter Osprey 21- work required
  12. Brewerer
    See below photo of my impulse purchase from eBay this week. I’ve managed to get it started in the first instance having had the flywheel off and cleaning points and setting gaps on coil and plug. Unfortunately the cutting disc has been replaced with a disc of aluminium chequerplate, would be nice to have an original to feel a little more secure there! Pulley appears to spin freely, and although I’ve taken the drive belt off for now, I don’t expect any issue. The clutch and drive however I expect to need a good thorough investigation. I only really bought it to serve as an intermediate, and if at a loss, I could use the engine on the Hayterette (which the engine has seen better days).
  13. Brewerer Brewerer joined the community
  14. Middleditch Middleditch joined the community
  15. chris1995 chris1995 joined the community
  16. Darren_Jennings started following Martin Markham Colt
  17. Darren_Jennings
    Hello there Long shot, but does anyone have a Martin Markham Colt manual? Regards, Darren
  18. Mike in NC started following My Wife's Newest Addition (Duster/Fogger), Mity Moe Duster/Fogger by Buffalo Turbine and Derby Tiller Power Hoe 13B 400
  19. Mike in NC
    Where did you come up with the decals of the fogger? My wife got one last month and it had been glass beaded and left bare metal. They did not do anything to the engine, it is still red. I would like to paint it and put new decals on it. Do you know the correct color for the red on the handle and the white on the fogger shell? Also, what is behind the handle bar on the side of the fogger? is it a serial number tag? Thank you for any help!
  20.    Wallfish reacted to a post in a topic: Diaphragm Arm Spring
  21. Bob V
    The piece of spring steel arrived yesterday. I will let you know how I make out with it. Thank You..!!
  22. Bob V
    Thank you John...
  23. Wallfish
    I'll get a piece out to you Yes that's the same but mine is a repop that I built a few years ago. $1500 + is too steep for little collectables. Here's a link of the thread.
  24.    Mike in NC reacted to a post in a topic: My Wife's Newest Addition (Duster/Fogger)
  25. Bob V
    Hi John, Well my feeler gauge experiment was a failure. The material probably has too much tension. It would not prime and would not run, so I assume it is putting too much pressure on the ball. If you can send me a piece of the material that you used, I would sure appreciate it. I don't know if you are a fan of Bring a Trailer, but I visit the site occasionally to look at all the vintage cars, motorcycles, mini bikes and go kart of yesteryear. I saw this micro-power micro-bike. Is this the same type that you have or had? I posted a link below. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/micro-power-micro-bike/ Thanks, Bob
  26. Wallfish
    The 20A engine is bigger than the Compact engines are but I'm not sure if the size of the fogger part itself is different.
  27. Tim Sargeant
    STOLEN TROJAN 'Toraktor'; My Trojan Toraktor circa 1957 is STILL MISSING. PLEASE keep an eye out for it when visiting shows etc this summer. I can identify it due to the mods I made when restoring it. Any info to: Tim@Permanden.co.uk Many Thanks. TCS.
  28.    Mike in NC reacted to a post in a topic: O&R Powered Halicki Skate Board 1960's (aka Toby Cart)
  29. Bob V
    Hi John, I made a spring out of a feeler gauge, but I have not installed it yet. I will try to get to it tomorrow or Saturday. If it does not work, I will take you up on your offer. Thanks, Bob
  30. Mike in NC
    So they made them in different sizes?
  31.    Mike in NC reacted to a post in a topic: My Wife's Newest Addition (Duster/Fogger)
  32. Wallfish
    Very Nice Find ! Not very many of those pop up for sale I have one with a 20A engine but not one of those smaller ones.
  33. Mike in NC
    Very nice setup. We have a powerhead but missing the tiller and the shaft.
  34.    Mike in NC reacted to a post in a topic: Derby Tiller Power Hoe 13B 400
  35.    Mike in NC reacted to a post in a topic: Derby Tiller Power Hoe 13B 400
  36.    Mike in NC reacted to a post in a topic: Derby Tiller Power Hoe 13B 400
  37.    Mike in NC reacted to a post in a topic: Derby Tiller Power Hoe 13B 400
  38.    Mike in NC reacted to a post in a topic: Little Petro mini bike
  39. Mike in NC
    Picked this up at a local show. I have seen one in person and pictures of another. The one said it was a Mity Moe Buffalo Turbine. The other one was painted and had no decals. Youtube Video
  40. Wallfish
    I have some blue tempered spring sheet metal .003" I can send you. I was making my own springs out of it and found that grinding the center out with a thin cut off wheel worked much better than trying to cut it out. Then cut the outside shape. Just don't grin hard to heat up the metal or it will loose it's spring properties. 50" x 3" can make A LOT of springs.
  41. Bob V
    Hi John - Don't worry about it. I thought maybe you had a surplus of them. I will try making one from a feeler gauge. I have several laying around and will match up the tension and then cut it out and make the bends. I don't know if you have ever seen a video of the USPS letter sorting machines, but they have vertical rubber rollers that apply a lot of tension to the envelopes to keep them running at warp speed. It was not the whole spring that broke, just the very ends where they are cupped to rests on the diaphragm roller. That is what I found in the envelope. As I mentioned, it runs fine and may never be a problem, but it just kind of worries me that one of the legs does not sit on the diaphragm roller and that in turn makes the diaphragm arm sit a little bit off center. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks, Bob
  42. Wallfish
    Surprising that would break a spring. I pulled that one from one of my good carbs. I'd need to look around for another one if I even have one. . A while back I was making my own out of spring material sheet because they are pretty scarce now.
  43. Bob V
    Hi John - I mentioned that the two legs of the diaphragm arm spring were shorter than they should have been, one more than the other. Well, I found two small pieces in the envelope that you sent the spring in. The culprit was probably the high speed sorting machines that the USPS uses. They put a lot of pressure on the envelopes when running through the sorting process.
  44. Bob V
    Hi John - The diaphragm spring arrived today along with the diaphragm and gasket you included. Thank you for that. I installed it and got the Tiny Tiger 300 running. The one you sent is working but it appeared to be worn at the two ends, where it cups and should rest on the diaphragm roller. One side barely rested on the top of the roller and the other side was slightly shorter, so it does not make contact with the roller. I made sure that the spring was in as far as it could go. Like I said, it is working, but I don't know for how long. With one end of the spring sitting on top of the roller and the other not on the roller, it makes the diaphragm arm slightly off center, so I don't know how long it will run like that. I was wondering if you have another diaphragm spring, in good shape, that I can buy from you? Don't get me wrong, I am grateful for the one you sent, but would like to have a good spare in case this one does not last. I am more than happy to buy it. I mailed you $20.00 for the spring, diaphragm and gasket that I received today and you should have it by the end of the week. Thanks again, Bob
  45. Baffle
    Thanks RIchard. As I said in my post I have the Spares/Instruction booklet but not the Clutch bulletin that I seem to remember reading about. Having thought about the problem overnight and understood more about what I was seeing with the chain cover off, I’ll answer my own question. Yes if you split and remove the primary chain, you will find that the clutch plates and sprocket with bonded friction material will slide off the axle. The rear plate is keyed onto the axle and watch out for the woodruff key which may fall out. I found having cleaned everything up and readjusted, and given some free play to the clutch cable when the clutch is engaged cable that I now have drive. What the booklet fails to mention (probably because it is just too obvious) is that you may need to readjust the free play in the clutch cable at the barrel adjuster having made an adjustment to the clutch leaf.
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