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Ok, yours is probably a bit older than mine. It has the square headed lock screw on the base collar to retain the column. There's probably one holding the handwheel on as well. Mine are hex socket grub screws. they are all whitworth form threads. I see you have the upper 3/8" dia spindle section !. It may be worth measuring it and compare it to my given dimension, There should be about 1 1/4" of 3/8" whitworth thread at the top and the nut should be of the Locking type (like an old version of nylock) I'll check my scrap bin again, as it was the top section of the `spindle' that I cut off and used. There is also the stop collar missing which measures 43.4mm x 42.32mm diameter and 3/4" bore, it also acts as a weight to assist feed rate. It all looks salvageable, even welding up the drill holes in the base.
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Thank you very much! here are some pictures of the one I am working on.
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Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished- Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings. Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image- Hopefully won't be too long before next update. Regards
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Hello John, Sorry for the slow response. The spindle is in 2 pieces, the lower length 7. 1/2" (190mm) x 3/4" dia (19.05mm). The upper section 7. 5/8" ( 193mm) and is 3/8" dia. this upper piece is press fitted into the lower section and pinned with a 1/8" dia dowel. So it would need to be longer to account for the fit overlap if you're making one. The milled keyway, as mentioned was reduced to about 3. 1/2" (89mm) to allow for increased bearing surface in the lower bearing (body casting). The thrust bearing has 2 sections of 1'" dia (25.4mm) x 3/16" (4.75mm) with races machined in both to accommodate 5/32" ball bearings, then hardened/tempered I believe the original chucks were knurled for hand tightening, but mine had been changed/bodged. The colour was made up/matched by myself using good quality enamels. Hope this helps. Regards
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My guess is imperial but I’ve been away from things for a while. A bit of Model , Type and Code digging may reveal something as would a bit of probing through the shaft drilling using the two sizes of twist drill as slip gauges may suggest something.
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Fortunately, the roll-pin parts remained in place (two in the gear and one on the shaft) but unfortunately the gear teeth have been damaged), so I’ll have to replace it. Also, the legs of the shaft stop had broken (I think I’ve located those parts too), but I’m not sure if the two failures are connected - ie. shaft-stop failure caused or contributed to failure of the roll-pin, or vice-versa. Incidentally, do you know if the roll-pins (gear and clutch-dog) are metric or imperial ? My measurements suggest imperial - 3/16”, but I wondered if they might be 5mm … ? It did cross my mind to replace the gear roll-pin with a spiral type pin to increase durability, so it’s good to know it’s a tried and tested modification.
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Just make sure that you can account for every bit of the failed roll pin. If you can’t find all the bits in the sump, take the cam out and flush out the inside of the crankcase over a clean receptacle and hope to find the missing part of rock hard roll pin that will do serious damage if picked up between cam and crank gears or the worm gear and the bronze worm wheel. This is not from the official manual but we used to replace the standard roll pin with a stronger “ spirol” - especially on contractors’ machines. BUT don’t upgrade the pins outside the engine such as in the dog clutch fixings. You need to maintain a weak link and a lot easier to replace.
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I removed the worst of the crud with a wire brush before attempting to lift the sump, and the shaft is tapered immediately above the oil seal, so what remained didn’t cause an issue. Anyway, I did manage to remove the sump with some gentle tapping with a mallet. It wasn’t necessary to remove the woodruff key, because the shaft is tapered immediately above the oil seal. I’d already had a look through the 10mm gap and I couldn’t see any obvious reason for resistance, but I did eventually manage to remove the sump with some gentle tapping with a mallet.
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Yes definitely. I don't mind the look as long as it's functional.
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You'll need to remove the woodruff key to get it off completely anyway. Can you get a thin piece of wood in when it's lifted as far as it will go to hold it up while you have a look inside with a light?
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Are we to assume that you are trying to pull the sump over all the crud on the crank ? Taking it at face value you must clear all that crud off the crank - scraping and fine sand paper. May even be helpful to pull out the oil seal so as to clean right down to the clean part of the the crank, then plenty of thin oil.
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Hi All, I’m hoping someone can advise me regarding sump removal from my B&S Quantum 55 engine. The engine is has a PTO driving the rear roller, but it I think the roll-pin securing the gear to the PTO shaft has sheared - hence the need to remove the sump to access the gear and replace the roll-pin. With the engine inverted on the bench (see attached pic), I removed the 7 bolts securing the sump to the crankcase expecting to be able to lift the sump off, but after lifting it about 10mm fairly easily I’m the feeling some resistance. Initially, the shaft to which the blade would attach remains in place as I lift the sump, but after 10mm it seems that the sump is catching on something and lifting the shaft too. Any help or advice or would be much appreciated. Cheers, Nick
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NickB joined the community
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Hello, I'm new to the site and I am restoring a Bradson No 14 for a friend but the spindle and chuck are missing, as is the thrust bearing. Please could you let me have the dimensions (lengths) of the spindle and the keyway in it, as I plan to make one on my lathe. I'm also interested in what paint / colour you used as mine appears to be the same colour.
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Hello, I'm new to the site and I am restoring a Bradson No 14 for a friend but the spindle and chuck are missing. Please could you let me have the dimensions (lengths) of the spindle and the keyway in it.
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John G joined the community
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elo knobie joined the community
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Thank you Wristpin ........ much appreciated ! I've just been given another 'Twenty One' (not running) so can experiment on that one first.
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Rob Worrall joined the community
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This may help. The most important things to getting a good clutch are Eliminating end float in the axle. Good bushes in the hub and the clutch plate to eliminate wobble in both. A good clutch lever locking catch to maintain " full pull" when disengaged. That way you can obtain full pressure when in drive. There's a fairly simple fix for a worn latch. Its the same lever as was used on a belt drive Webb 24. A couple of weeks ago Central Spares had "last two" in stock and I pointed someone in that direction then! Nearly £50!!, but the fix is cheap! https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/op1d2jdld8fwpxwonrdwk/Hayter-21-Ospey-Clutch-adjustment0001.pdf?rlkey=mbisdqg3nym1i929gp8xci803&dl=0
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Anglo Traction has posted a manual which come up if you search for Hayter 21/Osprey Manual.
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Hi all New to this site so sincerely hope you can help. I'm sure this has been covered before but i've recently acquired an Old Hayter Twenty One which is a lovely old machine. Its reluctant to start without a splash of fuel down the air intake but once going runs and cuts beautifully. My question is once the going gets tough forward motion struggles so i'm pretty sure the clutch is slipping. Does anyone have any instructions how it can be adjusted ? If it helps the version i have has a castellated nut on the axle. Many thanks in anticipation !
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DursleyMower joined the community
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Many Happy Returns Ian🎁. Have a great day, 🕺🏼💃🎉🎈🎂🍺🥃🍾, and many more 👍
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Good result! I'm guessing the mower has spent some time outside?
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Got it to run!!! VID_20240406_125339.mp4
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Not got an engine handy to try but 1/4”. AF , I think. I have Snap-on and Draper in that size. Quite possibly there’s a metric size that will fit.
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I have lost a very small 1/4 drive socket that fits the tiny bolts that hold the coil-pick ups on the engine, can anyone help please. I am after the socket - spanner size. A supplier would be good, thanks.
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Thanks everyone for your feedback and very useful tips. After much playing around and testing I finally got spark. One of the main issues was the magnet on the flywheel had a thin layer of rust, once it was cleaned and the points adjusted it made spark. With any luck I can get it to bust off. Thanks all.
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Winget implement s wanted
