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Took a look around and have some spare tools I'd consider letting go of. I also found a bar and chain that would fit that Ford saw if you haven't found one. C/Saw Circular saw Hedge Trimmer Amp Champ generator (Completely rebuilt engine) Tiny Tiger 300 generator (Completely rebuilt engine) Snow Blower (Completely rebuilt engine and gear box) ? Aquabug Outboard ? Chicken Power bicycle engine
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If you need something I'd search through and see if I have it. I have a bunch of used parts and laser cut diaphragms but it would be too much work to go through it all and make a list just for window shopping. Probably have some doubles of some tools I'd consider letting go. Circular saw, Amp Champ generator, Tiny Tiger generator.
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O&R parts for sale? Post them here.
garrettjames replied to garrettjames's topic in Ohlsson and Rice
Anything, I couldn't find a topic for parts. -
Spares of what? Just miscellaneous Parts? Or whole O&R tools?
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Does anyone have any spares they want to sell? Post them here.
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Thank you for the compliments sir!. Much appreciated, My own worst enemy as far as detail and concept is concerned. Hope you are still enjoying the rewards of your Triumph Gloria. Had to compromise with the last hose clamp for the outlet end. Used 1/16" copper plate for it and had some 5/16" copper rod left over from rivet making for the toggles:- All these bits will be coated with Rylard Incralac Lacquer. Carb intake hood and a Spark Plug cover to make next.
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Ok no worries, thank you for letting me know.
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Not that large one pictured. The smaller discs should be attached to the diaphragms. I use a product called "Seal-All" because it stands up to gas.
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Those cylinder cooling fins and the air cleaners are some of the most common missing parts so your best bet is to keep an eye out on ebay as they do pop up every once in a while. Search "Orline chainsaw" for the other parts too. Chain and throttle cable. The FORD saw is just a branded Orline saw so the parts are the same, just a different color You will also need a new carb diaphragm too. If you choose to do it, the crank seals can be somewhat rejuvenated by soaking them in place with a few drops of old school brake DOT3 brake fluid. Synthetic will not work. Carb cleaner spray can work too but not as well plus it washes off the lubrication oils so it'll start dry unless you oil them afterwards and before starting it.
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Richard, I am totally overwhelmed with the amount of intricate work and attention to detail that you have expended on this project, from an old engine, reduction gear and water pump you have built what must be the most complicated and beautiful 2 stroke water pump ever. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and skills with us.
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Getting close to finishing this. Here's a few images of this project -
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I sold everything except a tiny tiger generator which runs and I am trying to sell it on ebay.
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I bought this for $20 in a bin on market place completely disassembled. So far I have been able to put it back together for the most part. I have realized I am missing the angled airfilter, the 2 shields that go around the cylinder head and the correct chain. I was able to source the right chrome handle off ebay. I was also able to re bend the recoil ends to there original shape off some pictures I found on here.
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Hey, I was wondering if you by chance have a couple parts I'm looking for to restore my ford chainsaw, I am looking for the 2 shields that go around the cylinder head, and the angled air filter. Possibly the throttle cable for but I doubt you would have one of those. Let alone the right chain. Thanks, garrett.
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garrettjames joined the community
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Should that disc be epoxied to the diaphragm? I have carbs with both styles plus some with no disc. The best runner is with the large disc. Thanks!
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Have been laid up for 2 weeks with a pretty severe virus that's been going around. Nearly back to normal and have been trying to catch up on a few jobs. Having now acquired decent hose for 1 inch fittings, I drew up the wide hose clamp design and searched my stock for brass. Had enough for three clamps- Pickup end, pump inlet and outlet. the delivery outlet will need some thought. Plates cut and drilled:- Had some hard thinking about how to form them, but sorted it:- Found some 5/16" dia brass for the toggles in my brass scrap box (float arm from a cistern valve). Finished these now, but need more brass 3/16" whitworth screws:- A need for a towing handle was satisfied by salvaging a crank handle from an old Conservatory roof light. Had to dismantle and reshape it to my needs and make a new wooden handle grip, but all brass fits well with the project 36" in length (92cms):- This end needed all the work:- All these parts will be heavily lacquered for protection. Solved the waterproofing of the Carb inlet, so will follow with an update later. Regards.
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Meget pæn Steen. Thanks for posting images.
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Another post from Denmark Previously I showed you my WW2 Zündapp KS600 generating set and now I'm back. It's time to present my Auto Union GG400 generating set, nicknamed "Panzerwürfel" - Würfel being a cube. Most of these sets (and mine too) supplies 12V and 16V, depending of if you need it to supply power to the radios or if you are charging the batteries. All german armed vehicles had one on board, allowing them to be parked in the battlefield with power to the radios without the main engine running. It's a very compact unit but still features electric start per push button, when connected to a battery. Mine as an early model, which were less robust and prone to cracking the engine mount and mine were defective as well. Dating is easy, as the crank is dated (I just love the effectiveness of the germans). Like much of my stuff I have absolutely no use for it, but it is so nice to have . Enjoy! /Steen
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how do you hold the center from unwinding when you pull the end tighter?
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wind the spring and keep pulling on the tail to cinch it tighter and smaller. Repeat, repeat, repeat until it's wound tight and will fit in the holder.
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I have to wind it up again. How do you wind it back in to the holder thanks.
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Hold the spring down with your thumb at the holder opening and pic out the holder with something sharp. Release the thumb pressure slowly so the spring unwinds slowly
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I have the spring wound up in the round piece that comes with new springs and I set it in the recoil housing but how do you remove the holder from the spring thanks.
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Long time, no post!. Apologies for my absence, had to mothball this to deal with other things. Determined to get back to it, and now the weather has released it's wintery/rainy grip, I've been busy making square brass nuts threaded 3/16" whitworth to secure the 3/4" thick mahogony planks. Finally made a decision on the last drive chain layout. Went for direct drive to the pump. 9 toothed gear on the pump side, so at 2,500 rpm at the engine, 500 rpm at the reduction gear output, gives me 550rpm pump speed. The tech data for the pump with the full cam fitted which I have, is 80 litres per minute at 1500rpm.So this set up will run at 29.3 litres per minute, a comfortable rate for my needs. it meant I had to offset the pump, but not a problem really, and the outlet (elbowed) side will clear the edge of the frame when in use. Here's how it turned out:- Hoping to give it a once-over to check everything is fuel tight, and will get it running without the pump on. I need to 'run it in', as it has a rebored cylinder and new rings to bed in. I'll need to:- Waterproof the Spark Plug and Lead on the head area with a cover, which will also act as an engine cut out. Make Chain Cover for the final drive and oil drip collection tray below it. Waterproof the Air Intake/choke (not urgent). I've made a pulling handle, but need some wood to make a grip for it. So I'm nearly at the completion point at last!. Regards.
