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Thanks Alan, Trying to make progress while I have a reprieve from the dreaded R/Arthritis in the wrists. Just to give you an idea of this setup, here is a pic of the rough plan/layout of the working bits- So left - right there is the water pump - speed reduction unit, then the engine. A 1954 Villiers Midget Mk2 98cc. Fully overhauled with a rebore +0.030" and new rings etc. Being static, the engine will need additional cooling, which will require a cowling and cooling fan. The Mk3 Midget has this built in, but blows the air from the flywheel side. I want it the other way, so have to make the shrouds , fan and drive etc. Keeping the sort of Victorian 'Jules Verne' style, I'm using copper sheet from an old hot water cylinder for the shrouds, riveting where necessary and maybe some embelishment? The first pattern from my drawings marked out/cut from the sheet and began rolling to the diameter of 4.5 inches (114mm approx) - Fortunately, I have a piece of thick steel tube of the same diameter which allowed me to tightly form the intake area and rivet/solder the joint- This is now ready for shaping (bossing) to fit the contours of the cylinder etc. A first time challenge for me. I obtained an old Lignum Vitae Bossing Hammer in need of some considerable attention, so I refurbished it back to good condition and purchased a large 15" dia H/duty leather cushion- Will have several jobs for these tools on this project and the washed Silver Sand is currently being dried, ready for filling the cushion.....meanwhile- I had to redesign the engine mounting plates to position the engine inline so I can use direct couplings. I spent the last 3 days marking out, hacksawing and filing the 4 plates after drilling/reaming the holes. Also made the reduction unit mounts ready for welding up, along with the engine ones at the same time- With these parts all assembled in place, the shafts will line up and I can make the direct drive couplings with an allowance for any small misalignment, rather than use chains and sprockets etc. Regards

If you find a picture or the M.E. Magazine, would like to see it Norm. Must have been in a copy before 1984, which was when I started reading the Mag. I'll have a go at it Ian . Have to visit a Wood Turner I know to obtain some hardwood blocks when I'm ready. Got some Lathe time in recently. PTO work is still in progress. Decided to change the Brake/Strap set up design and not employing a Spring Steel Strap like the Brake layout on some Garden Tractors. Instead, I'm opting for a rigid Clam Shell type or external version of a Brake Shoe set up. Have obtained some 6" (152.7mm) ERW Steel Tube which will cover 2 jobs. Bit of a challenge Cutting slices off with only a manual Hacksaw - First slice in the lathe for finishing the cut end to size- Will have 4 more of these slices to cut and they will used to make Truck Wheels, as original Cast Iron ones are rare and expensive. The steel ring is perfect in dimension to accommodate the 3/16" thick Friction Lining and the PTO diameter- The bearing faces of the PTO are having their faces skimmed and have been 'Spot Faced' where the Bolts pass through- Phosphor Bronze Bearing Insert finished to outer diameter being 'Parted Off' from the Cored Billet- Used a 1.1/2" diameter Live Centre in the Tailstock to support the work. 'Parted Off' and a light fit in the Bearing so it can be Soldered (200c) in- Internal bore will be finished last before mounting back onto the Carrier Plate. They were retained by 1/4" Iron Rivets originally and the stress of 'Closing' the Rivets originally had cracked the Bearing flange edge at it's thinnest point. I will use specially made Countersunk Screws in reamed holes. Have the other bearing to remove next and repeat .