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I decided to tidy-up my Hayter 21 and am attaching a few photos of the exercise. I decided to use the Handle from an Osprey as I had this to hand and it appears more robust than the 21 handle.

HI Ray hope all's well, I don't know how I missed this topic of yours . Good job there with the panelwork. I expect it will work as good as it looks

Its really up to you. I have a friend who is an expert mechanic and, if the machine is working, he favours only an oily rag. I do not like to see rusty or oily elements so decide to remove/treat the rust etc. and paint them. However once I remove certain parts I find others that would benefit from the same treatment and invariably end up totally dismantling the machine and repainting it. I find that if I only repaint the 'tinwork' the remainder looks even worse and gives the overall impression of being half a job. I am not endeavouring to reach 'show standard' but just to ensure that I remove or stabilise any corrosion and paint so that I should not have to revisit it.

if no kill wire it should run but you wont be able to stop unless you unplug the wire from the plug. i suspect the coil there is a test in ohms you can do. i cant remember the measurement.hopefully someone else will help

This part is very nearly ready for welding up and riveting now I've finished making the copper rivets and shaping the friction linings. Gives me 19.5 sq ins(126sq cms) of contact, so plenty of grip. The bar with the springs will serve to keep the "Shoes' open/clear when the lever is released and will offer equal resitance pressure when shoes are closed onto the PTO by 'over centre' lever lock and cable operation- Regards

Well saved there!. Glad to see ths Topic is still useful.

Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016 5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge) It runs great Lauren