riber3

I'm sorry I can't be of any help. The coil I fitted to the Billy Goats 5hp Briggs is different to the one you have. Only wire that comes from it is the plug lead.

I fitted one of these coils to my Billy Goat a while back. Can't remember the wiring, but I'll try and remember to look tonight when I get home.

I'm a bit confused by the wiring harness illustrated in your last post as it appears to have a two pin socket with one wire possibly being an earth. The normal set up for a Magnetron coil is one wire from the blade connector on the coil running to the engine stop switch on the throttle plate. That said, the coil in your post is unlike any BS coil that I've seen, but as four years have passed since retirement, perhaps things have changed. None of the wires that disappear under the flywheel are needed with a Magnetron coil but it may be easier to either disconnect the stop wire from the old condenser and take it straight to the blade / spade connector on the new coil or cut it off close to the points enclosure and do the same.. That way you don't have to make any changes at the stop switch end.

I agree. really excited about seeing and hearing running, Yes it looks to have had very little use at all and been very well cared for over the years, but i need the standard specs to make sure its all set up as it should be as a start point, buts thats proving difficult at the moment, just hoping the information may surface soon, if not i will have to sadly look at moving it on.
 
I know a few guys at Spell brook Hayter, but have not had contact for many years now, but it maybe worth an e-mail to ask if they have an archive i could delve into etc.
 
Cheers
 
Nigel 
 
  

Interesting, certainly, with the keyways appearing to be just over 90 degrees apart , there should  be no doubt about which one to use.
Bet it really sings when put into work.
Seeing that the ignition cam is on the crank and not on the flywheel boss makes some of my instructions for setting the points irrelevant  - and makes the job far easier than on the smaller JLOs that I have worked on.
Not only is it a fairly unusual machine but it also looks not to have been over worked or badly treated. 
 
 

Hi, please find attached some pics of the rare Two Stroke machine ! hope you can clearly see the two keyway cut outs

The new coil armature requires setting up as follows. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are furthest away from the coil . Pull the coil as far from the flywheel as the slots allow and pinch up one coil fixing screw. Rotate the flywheel so that the magnets are equally aligned with the coil armature legs. Place your gauge ( plastic or card ) between the armature legs and the flywheel. Release the screw that you tightened and the magnets will pull the coil onto the flywheel pinching the gauge . Tighten both screws and turn the flywheel to assist pulling the gauge out.
In the absence of the correct gauge, Briggs used to suggest two thicknesses of an outdated micro fiche. 

It's a straight forward job. The Briggs Magnetron  kit illustrated includes a new flywheel key and a blanking plug for the points breaker plunger hole. Obviously, to fit those the flywheel has to be removed .  I have to own up to fitting many Magnetron coils without removing the flywheel and leaving the original key and points assembly in place with no apparent ill effects over a number of years.
The choice is yours.

The thin wire from the coil low tension windings goes under the flywheel to connect to the contact breaker points and condenser. (Under a tin cover) . Another thin wire comes from the points to the kill switch which is positioned adjacent to were the throttle cable is anchored. The action of closing the throttle past the idle causes  that switch to connect the coil and points to earth , thereby killing the ignition. 

By the look of the image your machine has points ignition, no trigger module between the left leg of the coil armature and the coil itself.
Plug caps. Comments have been made about these being the likely cause of failure. This is only likely to be the case if the original BS connector has been removed and replaced with an aftermarket cap. Again, from your image you appear to have the original connector and there's not a lot that can go wrong with those. Sometimes they have a simple rubber boot. 
The only exterior things left to check is the kill switch on the throttle plate or the kill wire that goes to it. If all is OK there, you have a choice, either remove  the flywheel and examine the points etc , or find a later BS Magnetron coil ( with suitable leg spacing)  and fit that in place of yours - a ten minute job and a direct replacement using your existing flywheel without the need to remove it.
Personally I would do the latter as they are 99.9% reliable and obviate  the need to ever remove the flywheel again.
 

Hello Riber3, welcome to the Forum. Firstly, you can test the Armature/Coil using the advice on the B&S site-  -LINK- .
As far as I'm aware, the HT Lead is fixed to the Coil and sold as a complete unit. Part number for the Armature on your engine is 298968 and are about UK£33.00. for a genuine replacement.
Other things to check are the 'Kill' or 'Ignition Ground/Earth Wire' and setting. The linkage may not be isolating this when the Throttle Lever is moved to start position.
 
 Some people have converted to a Transitorised Electronic Ignition system to replace the old system, where I'm sure someone on here would assist you with what is needed.
If you prefer to stay with the original system, then it is also possible the Condenser may be faulty.
 
As for Manuals etc for your engine model, if you click on this link, it will take you directly to B&S site's manuals for it. - B&S 170700 .
Hope this helps.
Regards
 

What happened to this Osprey, just curious as I am renovating one at the moment, see my current thread ta' . Colin