Fishnuts2

I had the same thing happen, and used a fine wire and WD40 over a period of time to loosen the varnish in the tank line. Like mentioned before, the small screen is very delicate!

Is it possible to get a copy of those sales brochures?

It is part of a kill switch. Mine is broken too and I think I found one on the Bay for $20. I just choke it to stop.

Yup, I think you're correct on that. I didn't study all the photos, just the one from the side which looked simply like a strap had been fashioned to fasten the front handle. I noticed now that it even has the starting instruction decal applied on the top too. There seems to be a large number of variations for us to collect!

That looks like a homemade fix for the missing clutch cover. Fortunately, that's an easy part to find.

I had the same thing happen to a carb I was rebuilding. Flooded all the time until i filed the button down to the same height as the original. It's aluminum and won't take very long to fix it . Make sure the gasket is first on the carb base, then the metering diaphragm.

Outboard motors are water cooled and don't generate the higher temps that air cooled motors can. The oils are formulated differently for a reason. I use Amsoil Saber mixed with non-ethanol fuel at 32-1 on every air cooled 2 cycle engine I have. (100+) From the O & R's up to the big 118cc Sachs Dolmar saws.

Looks to me that they tried to make the old carb more modern and added a diaphragm fuel pump. I'd say that line coming out by the motor mount would be the pulse port for the pump, and the other line feeding fuel from the tank.

Flip the petal over. I've pulled on the starter cord too many times to no avail, on an engine with a broken or leaky reed valve. I'm a little smarter now!

I think the decal would not be noticeable, but in fact looks great. However, as a chainsaw enthusiast, I'd point out that the chain is on backwards in the pics. I'd really like to add one of those Mono saws to my collection. They look like a design that is much more practical and robust if one were to use it, and certainly much easier to work on than my Lancaster and Orline saws.

I'm thinking that I could almost hear the exhaust noise from that engine at my house! Neat project!

My first O & R chainsaw project had the same wire pinch with corresponding results. I used liquid tape and routed it properly.

Here is an enlarged picture of my tank.

This does indeed have the screw in handle, it's just not very visible in the first picture.

I bought this drill thinking it was a Drillgine, but after looking at the Comet pump thread this morning, I'm now thinking it is a Comet. I'm wondering if it is complete, as it has no throttle or governor speed selector on it. It appears near new, and was found in the attic of an old hardware store that was liquidated. This is the condition as I received it. Looking for some expert opinions!

I might not have to. Just found another saw like it for parts.

The muffler and threaded rod are OK, it’s just that the extension flange has worn away from the pipe portion. Betting that it had been run with a loose muffler, and vibration took care of the rest.

I found this stray on ebay and got it running and cutting again. I didn't have much hope for the bar and chain, but I tried soaking it in vinegar for 48 hrs. and was very happy with the results. Here are a couple of pics of the new addition. I'd like to paint the right side cover like the other parts, but have to figure out a way to save the decals. I also need to make or buy the exhaust extension to mount the muffler. It's very loud without it, to say the least!

Regarding the Norton comments, I remember quite well the time I was riding my BMW cycle and mistakenly put ethanol mix gas in it. As I was riding my left boot became cold, and I looked down to see gas pouring out the gas line to the Left side carburetor. The ethanol gas had dissolved the gas line as I rode! I hate the stuff.

I've used synthetic oil in all my 2 stroke engines since 1977. (Saber) I wouldn't be afraid of overheating an engine. I currently have close to 90 2 cycle engines, mainly chain saws 35 to 118 cc, that all get the same mix. The only small 4 stroke motor I have is a generator, and he gets mixed fuel too! It's at the cabin and I don't want 2 types of fuel around. Gas is E - Free though, I have done many carb overhauls because of ethanol gas left in the tank for too long.

I use a similar product called Trufuel at the 40-1 level. If you want more oil in it, just add a little quality 2 cycle oil.

I think the best fuel mix for these little engines is the alkylate premix fuel you buy in home improvement stores or small engine shops. It stays fresh for a considerable time longer than regular pump gas. I was skeptical at first but now use it in all engines smaller than 40cc.

I have the same valve on my saw and ended up drilling through it. I mistakenly removed the valve body from the diaphragm cover, and was able to replace it by heating the cover in a toaster oven. Things went back easily and sealed up. I now have another project with a 13B motor and the same check valve on the carb. Gonna try cleaning with ultrasonic before the drill and see what happens. What is the purpose of the check valve anyway? Perhaps works to prime it easier?

Great work! Are you putting the small bend in the end to engage the roller pin?

I really got a kick out of the videos!