Fishnuts2

My saw buddy found one of those Cox saws still in the shrink wrap and carton. It was really neat, the bar is on the Left side, and the choke was funky too. He has since sold it for someone's collection.

Not a good picture, but here is one part of the Mustang saw you're better off without. The Orline handle assembly really is a mess. It seems the Lancaster and Mono saw handle assemblies and oiler mechanisms "hang" the motor from topside and leave the bottom open making it much easier assemble or repair. I'm looking for one of them for the next project.

Thanks for these pictures. Pretty sure I'll never have one of these, but at least I can ogle and study the pictures!

I’m retired, but drive a shuttle 11 hrs. weekly for a car dealership here. But that could change instantly. It’s for a good cause, my saw and toy money!

Yeah, I know about hard to find parts and gaskets. But that is the challenge for stuff like this. That 57 yr. old saw in the first picture is a hoot to run too, and I have 3 others of the same series. Any of this old, odd stuff is quite interesting to me.

Just remember, the worst part of the saw is the oiler setup. It depends on an 8" rod in the top portion of the handle into the tank, and to get it apart you have to remove the gearbox, carb, and fan/flywheel cover. You can take it apart, but you'll never get it back together unless all those other parts are out of the way. The rod and associated parts are spring loaded in the handle and things can go flying sometimes. That's why I think the Mono design is a lot better to work on.

Absolutely! I go to a lot of chainsaw meets and had never seen or heard one of these run, other than on YouTube. It's cleaned up and drained for hopefully a saw meet later this Summer, so I have a video that I play just to hear it run.

Now my saw buddy wants me to get his little Sears Mighty Lite going for him. Told him that I might in a year or two! The Mono saw design looks a whole lot better to me from a maintenance and repair standpoint.

Easily, the worst part of this whole saw is the process you have to go through to access even simple things that are in view! And some fasteners are really hard to get at. This shows a straight blade screwdriver in a Phillips head screw just to get it started most of the way. UGH! So, after figuring all this out and obtaining a nice spark, I had to decrease the points gap to about .018", because it seemed like it wanted to start, but just couldn't take off and run. Basically advancing the timing got it to run quite well. Next, was finishing the paint for the rest of the parts, and sharpen the 3/8's chain. Off to the wood pile for some cuts and pictures.

So had to split this tank, and had quite a time getting the piston out of the oiler bore. Someone must have used varnish instead of bar oil in this thing. Put a new filter and internal line on this one too, after the picture. You can see where the grease escaped the cavity here too. I used Yamabond and cleaned the surfaces with acetone before assembly. It seems to hold this time thankfully. Next step was to track down the no spark issue, which led to a pinched wire under the flywheel housing. Repaired it with liquid electrical tape and cleaned and reset the points. Actually, a couple of times, since I put the points plunger in backwards! When checking the flywheel side seal I noticed the original didn't seal to either the crankshaft, or the outside of the retainer. A bearing and hydraulic repair shop had an O-ring that seems to do the job.

I first obtained a diaphragm kit for the carb and got that rebuilt, but found that I had to use an ultrasonic cleaner to get the minute passages clear, so the carb was torn apart many times. The fuel tank filter was also plugged and to change it required splitting the tank. The whole saw is designed around the fuel tank, by the way, which means everything in the proper order must be removed to get at it. I reassembled the fuel tank with a new line and filter, but the old gasket in there leaked like a sieve. So, I found a complete tank on eBay and painted it and assembled the saw, only to find out the oiler piston was seized! Rather than splitting this tank, I tried using a bar nose grease tool and shooting grease in reverse from the bar outlet. A lot of pressure can be generated, and most of it blew out the tank gasket by the oiler assembly!

As long as we are to pretty much stay at home, I thought it would be a good time for a build thread on my Orline 13B. I've been tinkering with it since January, and finally got it running well, with a special Thanks for all the tips and advice from this forum. Here is how it looked when I brought it home, and after getting it cleaned up.

I was exploring and came across a NOS Homelite oiler button. It may fit perhaps? https://www.sawsalvage.co/collections/nos-parts?page=3

Thanks John!

So if I understand this right, the fuel is pulled in through gravity, or is siphoned in from the fuel tank by the diaphragm body cavity and then past the needle valve to the motor. When priming the carb, fuel is pushed past the ball valve and past the Primer Diaphragm one way valve, thus forcing fuel past the Needle valve and into the throat of the carburetor. I had been thinking that the primer diaphragm valve was some sort of a fuel pump. All I can say is that it is not conventional, but seems to work if the diaphragms are flexible!

I'm puzzled as to how the carb pumps fuel from the tank to itself for metering into the motor. It only has two diaphragms, one for keeping the proper amount of fuel in the body, and the other I presume is for pumping fuel. BUT...All the carbs I have worked with have a pulse port from the engine to a pulse chamber to pump fuel. I can't find any pulse port or passageway, neither in the motor or the carb body. I'm thinking if it relied on the pulse in the intake tract, it would be useless if the throttle was opened wide. Any ideas?

I tore it apart and compared it to the parts list, and everything was indeed there. The bearings are much smaller than I thought, given the size of the cover recess for the bearing and thrust washer. Thanks David!

Does anyone have a parts diagram of a Mustang chainsaw gearbox to share? I'm thinking I might be missing some bearing parts in the cover. Thanks in advance!

Back in the '60's we were supposed to know enough to keep our fingers away from belts and pulleys. Don't ask me how I know!

The taper is what holds the flywheel, and the key is only there for setting the timing. Just make sure the tapered surfaces are ultra clean, and the flywheel is torqued properly. I've known guys to skip the key on modified chainsaw engines to get the timing where they want.

I have one of these valves on my Orline saw project. It was plugged up just like most I guess, so I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner for a long time with Simple Green in it. It didn't change anything so I took a drill bit the same size as the inlet and drilled through it just using my fingers to twist the drill. Upon close inspection it shows two piece construction, but in trying to get it apart the assembly pulled out of the diaphragm housing. So I cleaned it the best I could and heated the diaphragm housing up to 150 degrees and pressed the brass housing back in place. My carb has the rubber stop on the metering lever too, instead of the small ball valve. I wonder if those were used in combination for certain applications.

Thanks David! Have the new cap on the way. Kind of a spendy little thing, but at least I found one.

I got it all together and it actually runs quite well. Still playing with the mixture setting. The air filter has a great effect on the mixture it seems. The filter is a felt material and is clean, so I’m confident things will be ok once sorted out. The fuel cap revealed the crack in it that was covered in dust and oil, and once gas got on it became clear to see. If anyone has one for sale, I’d be interested.

Thanks for the specs on coil and condenser! I had a 50/50 chance of getting the points push rod right and I lost. Anyway, I had it assembled just after I asked, and lo and behold, I have spark and I got it to fire on mix down the carb throat. I have close to 60 saws, but have never heard one of these run except for watching Youtube. This is a fun project and I appreciate all the help! I'll pull the flywheel and redo the push rod after I get it actually running from the fuel tank.

Here is a picture of the points gapped at .020". But, does the rounded end of the breaker push rod go in the crankcase or does it contact the point arm?