Steve2018

Hi,  im trying to remove the main engine pulley shaft as its broken but I cant get it off,  its been on for 25 odd years so seems stuck in place.  I have the engine out but just cant get it off :-( any tips?  I could cut it off but wanted to try and save it if possible to take to a fabricator to see if it could be welded back together. 

My other idea if i cant get it off was this that i drew while at work do you think this will work? 

Or instead of that bolt going through the side,  a better idea maybe is to get a longer main shaft bolt and washer to hold it all together?

Forgot to mention the pipe i have to slot in is a nice tight fit

Thanks tried him but non sadly :-(

Think i will take it to a fabricator to see if they can weld it back on as £100+ is close to what i paid for the full machine lol

Hard part looks like getting the shaft  off...... 

Thanks

I will try get it to a machine / fabricator shop and see if they can repair it and balance it....  If I can get the shaft off the engine.... 

Im looking for a supplier that can supply me part number 756-0391 which is a shaft that goes on the engine with the drive and cutter pulley wheels on as mines snapped :-(

Its for a Lawnflite 504 if anyone knows someone breaking one :-) 

Thanks

5 minutes ago, Wristpin said:

An image may help in assessing the situation!

Quite a few crankshaft pulleys are constructed like two saucers back to back and spot welded together. The metal fatigues around the welds and the pulley falls apart. If the fracture / tear is such that the pieces can be put back "in register" it may just be possible to do a repair.  Back in the 70s/80s we would see quite a lot of that type of failure, particularly if belts were over tensioned but then the manufacturers got wise and ran a seam of brazing down into the bottom of the V and spread the load.  

Hi,  heres a image,  its snapped where it meets the shaft :-(

Thanks

Got it running  and cutting great and then snap,  the metal drive pulley snapped clean off the shaft going to the engine!!!! 

Could this be welded back onto the shaft or will that off balance it? 

Thanks

48 minutes ago, Wristpin said:

Assuming that no one has fiddled with the relationship of the governor arm to the shaft that emerges from the block, speed adjustment is usually adjusted by bending the spring anchorage. As far as I can see you have not posted the model type and code to give positive id of what you have so that is just general advice. Reference to those number will enable specific information for your engine together with the top no-load speed and if applicable the governed idle speed. If your engine has governed idle, setting that is slightly more complicated that just setting the throttle stop screw to 1750rpm 

Hi,  i posted 191707 6030-01 as the code.  Thanks

Yea,  that's what i was thinking, burning oil

Will get a one ordered,  but £10 for a spring!! 

How can you adjust the max revs? Would that be by the govenor adjuster part? 

Thanks

The smoke at max revs is more grey / blueish looking but back it off a notch and theres no smoke 

Just noticed The govenor link spring that goes over the throttle arm has snapped :-( 

Is the spring an import part? 

Thanks found this one on Amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Tachometer-Small-Engine-Non-contact/dp/B00HWLTW90/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1527962133&sr=8-1&keywords=Laser+tachometer&refinements=p_76%3A419158031

Set it to a idle RPM that sounds like my push lawnmower for now.  Only thing ive noticed is at full throttle it sort of sputters and puffs smoke out the exhaust,  but knock the throttle back a notch or two its fine. 

But Maybe the missing carb gasket could be the problem for that... 

191707 6030-01 is the code

I had a look today at it,  looked at my eurocarparts clear filter and its already got dirt floating in it so decided to blow down the pipe,  there was some resistance then no resistance so put the pipe back to the carb and the filter filled right up which looked like a highly improved flow started it and again revs hunting up and down :-(

Next step I removed the carb and found - 

1 - No gasket between the carb and head so just metal on metal.. 

2 - big hole in the exhaust silencer (but guessing this would be just a noise issue and why its so loud rather  than causing a running problem..)

3 -  Probably the main cause of the complete problem,  the High speed needle valve on the bottom of the carb was fully in!! 

Took it apart anyway while it was off and cleaned it out,  some  dirt but less than I thought

Put it back together,  set needle to 1.5 turns and idle needle to 1 turn and started it and it now runs without the choke,  increased the revs but then it started bogging down and firing black smoke out (guessing too rich)  so turned high speed needle in 1/4 turn and now revs to full revs but some blueish looking  smoke starts to appear at full revs

It says to set the idle RPM to 1750 rpm,  how do you know when its at 1750rpm? Do you need a special  tool for that? 

Thanks again

Just waiting for the carb gasket to arrive as well.. 

Thanks going to have a look on saturday when i have all day to mess around with it without rushing around

Should I order any new carb gaskets / seals or just have a go cleaning and refitting it all first? 

Thanks

Checked the flow this morning,  pulled the fuel pipe off the carb and the fuel came running into the filter and out. 

Was going to blow down it but didnt want the taste of petrol before work lol.... 

Yea I think I will remove the filter and run without one until I get it running then fit the red briggs and stratton filter

Thanks 

32 minutes ago, Stormin said:

 

 

That's why I suggested checking the tank and fuel line, to make sure fuel is getting to the carb before pulling the carb to bits.

Yea thats first on the todo list before anything else just need to get time to look at it again. I thought even if the fuel filter was for a car then it still would have filled with fuel when left sitting for a few days.... But nothing, its fully empty now the filter after running it when I checked before going to work

Thanks

Is it ok to use brake cleaner or is carb cleaner needed? 

Thanks i will check the tank,  i thought maybe rust but the tank is plastic but you never know what's got in there over the years

Yea stripping the carb was suggested by the previous owner.  He said it stood outside over the winter then started doing it when he went to use it again. Will check the carb after the tank. Thanks

Just noticed in the manual it lists 2 fuel filters.  One type for engines with a fuel pump and one for engines without a pump...  I think i have fitted a filter designed for engines with fuel pumps by using an automotive filter... 

I have a mower with a 8hp briggs and stratton engine but it only seems to run on choke and when running the revs rise and fall like it goes RReerrrrRRerrrRRerrrRRerrrr

So far I have tried new air filter,  new fuel,  new oil breather tube and new plug gapped correctly. 

I fitted a clear fuel filter from eurocarparts as well to make sure fuel going in was clean but there only seems to be a dribble of fuel in it,  hardly any at all.... 

Any help would be great

Thanks

Thanks all I went with the Resistor  type NGK resistor gapped to 0.76mm as it was the easiest one to get hold of

Just need to stick my new filter on (the one on now is falling to bits)  new breather tube on (a mouse chewed through the one on the engine) and new oil breather gasket 

The manual lists both but says to use the resistor type due to some states having different laws (guessing this is just aimed at the US market) 

Would there be any difference in fitting the resistor type over the non resistor as that seems more readily available in the stores 

Currently the previous owner had a NGK BPMR6A fitted but the manual says to use a Champion J19LM or a NGK B2LM

Its for a Lawnflite 504 ride on with a 8hp briggs and stratton engine

Thanks